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Thread: strange coolant issue

  1. #51
    Senior Member naijishi's Avatar
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    i have also seen it mentioned when doing that to also do it parked up a steep hill then open the cap and start engine squeeze pipe etc. hope you get it sorted
    2003 S-Type 3.0SE

  2. #52
    Member oldiebutagoodie's Avatar
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    right!?! haha that's why I am part of this forum, after buying an 03 STYPE 3.0 I have learned a few things and have gotten ideas what to look at etc... because its my first jag, I am not aware of a lot of lil things and here is a great place to learn.
    I tend to OVER THINK THINGS and tend to also believe im going mad. lol
    so I like to read other jag owners experiences and at least ill have that info in the back of my head when or if I come across the same type of issues.
    its definitely showed me how SENSITIVE THESE BABYS ARE.
    GOOD LUCK!

    Quote Originally Posted by twostrokekid View Post
    You're starting to give me some reassurance that I'm not going mad, Andrew.

    I'm hoping when it takes the last 0.5 litre it will settle down, even though that will be around 1,500 miles at the present rate!

    I drive SID a 2003 S type 3.0 petrol
    #ilovemysid #sidthejag

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  4. #53
    Senior Member Jim_S-V6_2004's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by twostrokekid View Post
    Jim, you've alluded to air locks in the cooling system a couple of times in this thread. This is somewhat topical with me as well. I drained my 2.7d engine to replace a cooling pipe and I collected the drained water in a bucket which, because it had the Jaguar spec antifreeze in I (rightly or wrongly) poured back into the radiator when I refilled it. I had a devil of a job bleeding the system and found I couldn't get all the original coolant back into the system. Even after some fairly lengthy runs I still had 1.5 litres left in a container which I carry with me for top up purposes. The coolant level didn't budge for the first 1,000 miles but now I'm finding that every time I use the car I'm having to top up about 1 cm in the header tank. I know it's irrational not to expect to put back the same amount that was drained off, but 1,000 miles to carry an airlock in the system? The heater has worked fine throughout so that can't be too empty. I'm starting to get worried that I've sprung another leak even though I've still got 0.5 litre to top up before the original drained coolant has all gone back in! Please tell me this slow release of an airlock is normal!!
    .
    I'm glad you did it the scientific way bud, it's proved the point finally, and many owners have pulled their hair out as well as wasted loads of money trying to get the air out, thinking it's a cylinder head or matrix or system leak.

    The S is a real pig for airlocks, and even some mechies don't believe it.
    .
    Quote Originally Posted by naijishi View Post
    i have also seen it mentioned when doing that to also do it parked up a steep hill then open the cap and start engine squeeze pipe etc. hope you get it sorted
    .
    .
    Yes, do all of this.

    Of course for a new member problem... if you aren't sure it's not a more serious problem then do pop in to any local mechanic and get a "sniff test" done to be sure there is no fuel trace in the coolant, which would indicate a burnt head gasket, and also get a radiator pressure test done to be sure your coolant system isnt leaking. These tests are usually done for free by most mechies but at their convenience.

    So here's how to do the Intense Jim-Sean Air Expulsion Manouevre!...

    Park on a steepish slope facing uphill (this is Sean O's reminder!) Thanks again, Sean.

    You may succeed by raising the front of the car on ramps if you have them.

    The intention is to make the expansion tank the highest point in the cooling system, and not the heater matrix. You may need to visit the Alps!

    Remove the radiator expansion tank filler cap. There is no need to loosen the small hose bleed screw.next to it, that's never worked for me.

    NOTE: The expansion tank has a chamber inside it which always holds a puddle of coolant and this can foil you into thinking there is enough coolant in the system when there is not. Your radiator may well be half empty or worse!

    Fill up coolant to cover the top step in the expansion tank before starting the procedure.

    Start the engine and turn the heating to full heat on both sides.

    Let it get warm.

    Squeeze the big top radiator hose (it's at the left of the radiator on my 2.5-litre S Type) fast and hard, and hold it for a second. Let it go slowly. Repeat 10 times. Add coolant to cover the top of the square coolant-level step inside the expansion tank. Repeat this whole step if it takes coolant.

    As you squeeze you may feel that the hose is cool and empty. It should fill and get harder and warmer as you repeat your squeezing. You may feel the coolant slushing in the hose as you squeeze.

    Refit the expansion tank filler cap and tighten the bleed screw next to it.

    Check the small hose nozzle on the expansion tank in front of the bleed screw isn't broken, they are weak and many do break causing coolant and pressure loss. Tell-tales of this is finding pink coolant in the small hose well and/or in the expansion tank seam. Gently push the small hose sideways, coolant will splutter out when the cao is on and the system is pressurised if the nozzle root is broken. There is a repair procedure in our S Type Stickies.

    Try the car.

    Be ready to repeat this if your coolant level drops again and you've done the sniff and pressure tests.

    .
    Last edited by Jim_S-V6_2004; 13-01-18 at 14:41.

  5. #54
    Senior Member Jim_S-V6_2004's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldiebutagoodie View Post
    right!?! haha that's why I am part of this forum, after buying an 03 STYPE 3.0 I have learned a few things and have gotten ideas what to look at etc... because its my first jag, I am not aware of a lot of lil things and here is a great place to learn.
    I tend to OVER THINK THINGS and tend to also believe im going mad. lol
    so I like to read other jag owners experiences and at least ill have that info in the back of my head when or if I come across the same type of issues.
    its definitely showed me how SENSITIVE THESE BABYS ARE.
    GOOD LUCK!
    .
    They aren't too bad there, just this and the low battery voltage symptoms (ABS/DSC/EPB faults) and MAF/MAP (replace if suspect, as they usually don't clean) really.

    The physical access to almost everything we need to get to is absolutely atrocious but you've done lots of repairs on yours so you know that already. Kudos, Sis!

    But when they are well they are a joy to drive and behold, aren't they?

    I'm not asking!

    The biggest headaches are lack of codes, we can't diagnose these cars efficiently, and an ELM327 and Torque is often not good enough, so we need an iCarSoft 930i or similar code reader thingy or a Mongoose/Mangoose with SDD/IDS more and more.

    .

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  7. #55
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    Thanks for the comments Jim.

    I didn't set out to perform a scientific experiment, it's just that I'm too tight fisted to pay for fresh antifreeze! Nevertheless, it's turned into a bit of old fashioned detective work and yielded some interesting results. Perhaps we can all learn from this. I'm starting to enjoy this really!

    True to form, I took the beast for a 40 mile run today, a mix of slow traffic in Birmingham and some spirited motorway driving on the M6 and, would you believe, the coolant level didn't budge from the full mark? But I know its still half a litre low because I've got the evidence in a plastic container in the boot!!!

    A previous poster recommended the filler cap off and "burping" method.

    Think I'll combine your patented Alpine slope, pipe squeezing and burping combo and get back to you all with the results.

  8. #56
    Senior Member Jim_S-V6_2004's Avatar
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    Yep that's the spirit!

    See what this forum's all about, apart from the automatic thread hijacking?

    Good fun ennit! Hehehe...

    .

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  10. #57
    Member oldiebutagoodie's Avatar
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    Hi Jim, thanks for the optimism and useful info.
    AND YES THESE CATS ARE GREAT!! I HAD THE PRIVLAGE TO DRIVE ANOTHER THE OTHER DAY AND BOY WAS I IMPRESSED!! I
    KNEW I HAD AN AIR LEAK, WELL, BECAUSE I BROKE A SECOND AIR FILTER BOX!! AND IT DID NOT CLOSE PROPER SO I DECIEDED TO CHANGE OUT THAT DANG PLASTIC BOX FOR A CONE STYLE AIR FILTER.
    I THINK ITS A GOOD MOVE, CAR SOUNDS AND PERFORMS BETTER. IM ONCE AGAIN PROUD OF MY LIL ACCOMPLISHMENT DONE ON MY OWN. LOL
    AND TODAY I WILL REPLACE MY BRAKE PADS, SINCE I MIGHT BE GOING A LIL FASTER NOW. HAHAH


    Quote Originally Posted by Jim_S-V6_2004 View Post
    .
    They aren't too bad there, just this and the low battery voltage symptoms (ABS/DSC/EPB faults) and MAF/MAP (replace if suspect, as they usually don't clean) really.

    The physical access to almost everything we need to get to is absolutely atrocious but you've done lots of repairs on yours so you know that already. Kudos, Sis!

    But when they are well they are a joy to drive and behold, aren't they?

    I'm not asking!

    The biggest headaches are lack of codes, we can't diagnose these cars efficiently, and an ELM327 and Torque is often not good enough, so we need an iCarSoft 930i or similar code reader thingy or a Mongoose/Mangoose with SDD/IDS more and more.

    .

    I drive SID a 2003 S type 3.0 petrol
    #ilovemysid #sidthejag

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