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S type Auto Box

5K views 13 replies 12 participants last post by  nav18tor 
#1 ·
Hi,
Does anyone know if it is possible to easily change the transmission fluid in the 6 speed auto box on a post 2002 S type?
I know that Volvo ( similar genes!) have 'sealed for life' type of box, but as an engineer I am convinced that a regular change will prolong life as well as smoothness of the transmission.
It should be possible to drop the bottom pan but this is messy and needs new gaskets etc.
 
#2 ·
I was going to suggest the Haynes manual until i looked for it:

Im sure you can intrested to find out.

Jaguar S-type

We do not, and have no plans to publish manuals for this vehicle in the future. This may be because the model range has not sold in sufficient numbers and we can't consider doing a manual until there is enough of a particular model on the road for us to be sure of covering our costs.



Book No: NM0037
ISBN: 0000030759
List price: £0.00
Web price: £0.00
 
#3 ·
Service manual says:

Normal Use Maintenance Not necessary. Filled for life.
Severe Duty Maintenance Change the fluid at 48,000 km (30,000 miles) intervals. Use WSS-M2C 202B

I have some information for you courtesy of JTIS (CD based service manual) but it depends on how post 2002.

Are you 2002 or 2002.50 or 2003?

Regards.
 

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#7 ·
djdex said:
Do a search, this has been covered a squillion times on here - in short, yes it's beneficial, every 60-70k will see it last, otherwise that sealed for life will be a much shorter life than the rest of the car.
Entirely agree. Yes Volvo do say box filled for life but that's a load of c**p! Myself and others on the Volvo forum suggest a change at maximum of
100K preferably 50K. It all depends on usage naturally. One can glean quite a bit by the colour of the fluid. The Volvo box isn't sealed and a change is quite straightforward.
Out of interest I am going to look at a 4.2 V8 this evening with a view to purchase. Does this box have a dipstick to check condition of ATF?
 
#9 ·
Just contacted ZF who sated the following:

5-, 6- and 8-speed as well as 4HP20 automatic transmissions:
ZF 5-, 6- and 8-speed as well as the ZF 4HP20 automatic transmissions are filled maintenance-free with specially developed partially
synthetic ATF oils. Maintenance-free fills are intended for normal operating conditions. Especially driving at very high operating
temperatures can result in accelerated aging or increased wear of ATF oils. It is recommended, in the event of severe operating
conditions, such as:
- frequent highway driving in top speed range,
- offensive, sporty driving style,
- frequent trailer operation,
being above average, oil purification (oil change) on automatic transmissions is recommended between 80,000 km and 120,000 km, or
8 years, depending on the load.

I am still not convinced that a regular change isn't beneficial even under normal conditions.
 
#10 ·
I changed my fluid recently on a June 2004 3-0. (Reason - I have the lurch and wanted fluid all good before getting software update) The fluid was dark grey and not very nice looking but no particles or magnetic bits so the internals were okay. the car had done around 85k. some light towing and quite a lot of motorway/suburban use. I used the flush and fill method and it took 20 ltrs (about £90 delivered from Millers Oils)
Had the car set up on DIY ramp (HD building blocks and scaffold boards) so it was level and secure - Drained fluid out via drain plug.
When no more came out, this was when I planned to take off my pan, Then found the pan/filter supplied was wrong type !! Needed car Monday (this was Saturday afternoon )so do I put back old fluid or carry on?
I carried on, Used garden sprayer with the nozzle removed to inject fluid until it started to overflow out of fill/level plug then started engine and carried on injecting until it was full - Replaced plug - Let engine run for ten minutes moving gear selector through all gears. Turn of engine and drain again. Repeated this until fluid being drained was totally clean. Then left engine and g/box to cool overnight ( I was knackered and the wife was waving a bottle of wine at me - no contest :lol: ) Next morning final fill with engine running and temperature probe in fill point. got fluid temp to about 40c with fluid just overflowing with a small stream - and put back fill plug. Test run car around streets and then down the motorway. Shifts are smoother the lurch is still there but not so bad. With these results - will I repeat the above in order to change the filter? - probably not !
I ended up with about 2 ltrs of new fluid unused, Overall the job was not difficult -other than getting the final fill done with the temperature correct, if you miss this it is important to cool down and start again as the temp/expansion of oil sets the level.
Ended up with an aching back with all the diving back and forth under the car - but then I'm not 21 anymore :cry:
 
#11 ·
Quote ray208:- Ended up with an aching back with all the diving back and forth under the car - but then I'm not 21 anymore
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When you're the wrong side of 70 with k nackered knees and a dodgy back it's impossible. Technically you can do jobs but physically you can't. Oh for a 2 post car lift and a big enough garage to site it. :cry:
 
#13 ·
Changing the fluid is a difficult procedure. Unless you are a competent mechanic I would not do it. If you harm yourself in the process I take no reponsibility.
You need 10 litres of Mercon V (difficult to obtain in itself! Jag dealer is best but they usually have to order and need the correct part no) a 500ml syringe pump a laser thermometer
1) Raise car when g/box is warm.
2) drain fluid. You can drain the torque convertor if you like, drain plug accessed through rubber bung on bottom of bell housing if you fancy.
3) Remove sump drain and level plug to drain fluid. You can get 8.5 litres out with the sump off and the valve block removed.
4) Replace sump level stand pipe but leave level plug out. Replace fluid with pump till it runs out of the level hole
5) Start engine and run through all the gears twice leave in each position for 5 seconds.
5) Now the difficult and dangerous part whilst maintaining the gearbox at between 80 to 120 deg F continue to fill the gearbox untill fluid dribble from the level hole do not exceed 120 deg f oil temp. If you do let it cool. Temp rises are sudden and fast.
6) When fuid just stops dribbling from at correct temp refit level plug (watch your fingers the oil is hot.
7) I would suggest that you reset the PCM which is another lesson for another day. Involves disconnecting battery see other threads, I posted one myself on the subject.
Done properly this is an expensive hazardous but rewarding process. Should take betwen 8.5 to 9 liters of fluid. And by the way I have given you a method which does not require expensive computer monitoring equipment pr computer reflash’s etc. Sticky any one? This method is tried and tested.
 
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