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Thread: Replaced the washer pump

  1. #31
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    I recently had this problem end-to-end. I had the corrosion problem in the fuse box / CJB and knew from research / TSB that the pump was the cause.
    I had to solder a spare wire in to the CJB, which worked fine, and planned to replace the pump.
    So with the CJB fault and the pump fault confirmed, I did a lot of testing of the old pump before replacing it, looking for how the leak happens.

    There's no visible leakage at all. I also saw the cascade of water over the loom after using the wipers, but it's definitely not that.
    With about 20-25 operations of the pump, this was enough to make the CJB connector wet again! So it's quite a flow.

    On removing the connector from the pump, I could see a good 3-4mm of water inside the connector. So It seems that this is natural capillary action (wicking), but enhanced by pressure from the pump itself.

    The water is travelling inside the wire, between the copper strands. So, Loops and drips will do nothing at all. Breaks are unlikely to help, unless you can seal the break in such a way to let water out.

    Best option is to replace the pump. To improve the wire, rather than a break I'd consider crimping in a length of anti-capillary wire. I didn't bother, the pump fix should be enough.

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  3. #32
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    Great write up, explaining the problem. I initially thought I wasted my time and money on replacing the pump as I didn't think it was how the CJB got the corrosion, but after reading your explanation I'm glad I did change it.

  4. #33
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    I checked my car today by putting a piece of kitchen roll under front offside wheel arch, where the pump resides and the kitchen roll absorbed moisture. I had a close look inside the wheel arch and there is a trace of moisture around the plastic screw clip. The near side is dry and no signs of moisture, the car has one year left on its used car warranty so I will be booking it in for them to have a look at.
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  5. #34
    Senior Member jberks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumpyalan View Post
    I checked my car today by putting a piece of kitchen roll under front offside wheel arch, where the pump resides and the kitchen roll absorbed moisture. I had a close look inside the wheel arch and there is a trace of moisture around the plastic screw clip. The near side is dry and no signs of moisture, the car has one year left on its used car warranty so I will be booking it in for them to have a look at.
    In my experience, Jaguar aren’t very pro active on this issue. My BIL kept saying his was under warranty and he’d get it checked. Warranty ran out and a few months later, the CJB failed.

    I’d say, for the minimal cost involved, don’t bother checking it. Just replace it.

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  7. #35
    Senior Member Poundy's Avatar
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    As above, it's a 1hr easy diy, and £50-£70 for the pump, mine is under full Jaguar warranty but they won't fix it until the damage is done and the CJB has failed. The fact that they will fix it then, including CJB, pump and replacing the loom, means pulling more panels off leaving you with potential squeaking or rattling panels.
    MY15 X250, XF R-Sport 3.0D Black Pack, Ceramic coated, 19" alloys SOLD!

  8. #36
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    This is great information, thanks. Is this a problem on all x250 models or was it sorted at some stage during production?

  9. #37
    Senior Member jberks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by prolepsis View Post
    This is great information, thanks. Is this a problem on all x250 models or was it sorted at some stage during production?
    It appears to have started at the facelift but it's unclear on exactly when or even if it was resolved on the production line.
    2012 XF 3.0D S Premium Luxury

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