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Thread: rear lower suspension arm

  1. #1
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    rear lower suspension arm

    Morning everyone.

    i have the absolute worst squeak from 1 of my off side rear lower suspension arm bushes. I'm debating new bushes or just get a new aftermarket arm with bushes already in there. But is it 1 of those jobs where you should do both sides? What would you guys do?

    Also is it tricky to remove said arm? Anything i should be wary of?

    Thanks in advance
    2007 XJ-358 2.7 in Pearl Metallic Grey. 120,000 on the clock. Slowly but surely putting everything right.

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    Junior Member Aix's Avatar
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    Depends a bit on mileage, but technically you should do both sides. The rubber bushings definitely contribute to the supension work, so when they are very different on both sides this may affect the driving.

    Also depending on mileage be prepared for a not so pleasant work. Suspension parts have a tendency to get stuck and it's not much fun to rip out old parts with rotten bolt from there. Took me a whole day morning to evening for both sides, but on a rented lift with all the great tools at my disposal (I also changed the lower read wishbones some months ago).

    If you change bushings only or the whole wishbones depends on the price you get for the wishbones and on the time you have to do it.
    I changed the complete arms because I wanted to be done in one day. If I had needed to rip out the old bushings and press in the new ones on top of the assembyl work I had anyway, this would not have worked. And I was able to source the whishbones from the UK for a quarter of the price I would have paid at the Germany dealer. That work in your favor, you are there already (but mailing them was only around 10 pounds if I remember correctly).
    One problem I had was that one bushing at the wheel side was too long to fit in. They obviously come in 2 different lengths, depending on year of the car, and some dealers seem to mix them up every now and then. Left fit, right didn't, so I had to grind off around 2..3mm in total from the two flanges on both sides of the bushing. If you measure before and make sure you have the right ones you will not end like me, 1h before the shop is closing with a cat that has only 3 legs and the push do do anything that will get it back on the road.

    All in all the removal is ok. The bolts/nuts on the backside that are difficult to reach all have metal flags, so they don't turn over, it's enough to get to the other end that can be reached. The nuts/bolt looking at the wheel house can all be reached with an impact wrench plus extension to break them free. That makes it a lot easier.
    Disconnecting the stabilizer link was a challenge in my case. The thread needs to be held with a small square key at the tip so it doesn't turn with the nut and there was not much length to fit two wrenches over the tip of the thread. So you may have to prevent the thread from turning by carefully holding the ball end through the rubber without damaging it when the nut has high resistance until the end of the thread.
    You will need to partly disconnect the brake caliper to get the long bolt out at the wheel carrier side because the head would interfere with the caliper. Just loosen one bolt of the caliper and turn it aside a few centimeres to slip the bolt out.

    Finally, not X350 specific but never to be forgotten, tighten all bolts holding bushings only in driving position when the car is back on its feet. Otherwise the bushings are clamped in the position of hanging down wheels and will be twisted in the rest position.This will destroy them much quicker than needed when the suspension then works on the road and twists them even further. They should be realxed in the normal standing position.
    2003 Jaguar XJ8, extremely cheap to drive due to Vialle LPG system, quite expensive to maintain due to 325.000km mileage, and a beauty in the truest of all Jaguar colors

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    Senior Member FastEddie's Avatar
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    Its not an easy job by any means , but doable all the same if you have done similar tasks on other cars.

    Definitely do both together and with genuine parts , £180 ish each is not the end of the world.

    The two bushes are replaceable , but aluminium structures and presses = bad combination at times.

    Be careful not to damage the suspension height sensors while you are in that area with spanners etc.

    2009 X358 XJ LWB 2.7 Tdvi , Liquid Silver , 100k+ and going strong.
    Bumper reflectors drilled and fitted with 3W side marker lights.
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    Senior Member Partick the Cat's Avatar
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    Rear arms are cheap enough now that it's not worth the extra labour cost of changing the bushes.

    Different if you do the work yourself maybe, but pressing new bushes into an aluminium casting is troublesome unless you have access to the correct mandrels and a good press.

    Best to do both because if you only do one S*d's law says you'll only have to do the other sooner rather than later.

    It's different for the big bushes on the lower arms of the front suspension. My indie rebushed both banana arms rather than fit new arms.
    "The jaguar is a compact and well-muscled animal." (Wikipedia on Panthera Onca)
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    Thanks for your input chaps. I brought a new arm from Berkshire jag spares. Its got the Lemforder bushes in it apparently. Im still undecided to tackle it myself or not. Seems simple enough, maybe just a little time consuming. I really just dont want to mess up the air shock. Best bet is to disconnect the battery so the compressor wont compensate whens its removed?
    2007 XJ-358 2.7 in Pearl Metallic Grey. 120,000 on the clock. Slowly but surely putting everything right.

  7. #6
    Senior Member FastEddie's Avatar
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    In theory , when you raise the car quickly on one corner with the key off it should go in to jacking mode.

    I have seen contrary to this with my tinkering , but it always sorts itself afterwards quite quickly.

    If I have let a leg drop fully from jacking , I always start the engine before lowering slowly and no problems.
    2009 X358 XJ LWB 2.7 Tdvi , Liquid Silver , 100k+ and going strong.
    Bumper reflectors drilled and fitted with 3W side marker lights.
    Fog lamps / DRL running with HID colour match of dipped beam.



  8. #7
    Junior Member Aix's Avatar
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    The X350 has an automatic jacking mode. I had the car jacked up in all possible conditions, with key, without key, running engine, just switched on ignition, one corner, one axle, the whole car, never had a problem.
    As soon as the cat gets its feet back to the ground and the engine starts it takes only a few seconds and it levels again. Which I always find fascinating and sometimes even get out of the car to watch. Especially also when shopping really much for the whole family plus a few cases of beer, when the rear tires start disappearing in the housing. Start the engine, few seconds and sssssst, the butt is level again. One of the aspects for me that makes these cars perfect boys' toys
    2003 Jaguar XJ8, extremely cheap to drive due to Vialle LPG system, quite expensive to maintain due to 325.000km mileage, and a beauty in the truest of all Jaguar colors

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  10. #8
    Senior Member Fraser's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Partick the Cat View Post
    Rear arms are cheap enough now that it's not worth the extra labour cost of changing the bushes.

    Different if you do the work yourself maybe, but pressing new bushes into an aluminium casting is troublesome unless you have access to the correct mandrels and a good press.

    Best to do both because if you only do one S*d's law says you'll only have to do the other sooner rather than later.

    It's different for the big bushes on the lower arms of the front suspension. My indie rebushed both banana arms rather than fit new arms.
    +1
    The main point against DIY bush swapping is these arms are cast aluminium whereas the front arms are forgings. When XJK were doing maintenance/repairs they invested in kit to swap out bushes but had to stop doing the rears as one cracked on them on at the press-in stage. And, of course, the whole arms are now available at a fairly reasonable price, so all the independents just swap-out the arms and can provide a guarantee too.
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  11. #9
    Senior Member FastEddie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aix View Post
    The X350 has an automatic jacking mode. I had the car jacked up in all possible conditions, with key, without key, running engine, just switched on ignition, one corner, one axle, the whole car, never had a problem.
    As soon as the cat gets its feet back to the ground and the engine starts it takes only a few seconds and it levels again. Which I always find fascinating and sometimes even get out of the car to watch. Especially also when shopping really much for the whole family plus a few cases of beer, when the rear tires start disappearing in the housing. Start the engine, few seconds and sssssst, the butt is level again. One of the aspects for me that makes these cars perfect boys' toys
    I like listening to the ssssst sounds too , as they sort themselves out , I guess some of us will.
    Especially when a larger passenger gets out of the vehicle and questions the leaking noise

    When I am filling mine up , I like listening to it levelling itself up as I put half a drum of oil in !

    Also , sitting on the back with the boot lid open - pump up , jump off , go down again and so on.
    2009 X358 XJ LWB 2.7 Tdvi , Liquid Silver , 100k+ and going strong.
    Bumper reflectors drilled and fitted with 3W side marker lights.
    Fog lamps / DRL running with HID colour match of dipped beam.



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  13. #10
    Junior Member Aix's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastEddie View Post
    Also , sitting on the back with the boot lid open - pump up , jump off , go down again and so on.
    They are really playful cars, I definitely have to try that
    2003 Jaguar XJ8, extremely cheap to drive due to Vialle LPG system, quite expensive to maintain due to 325.000km mileage, and a beauty in the truest of all Jaguar colors

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