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Thread: Multiple error codes

  1. #21
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    By lucky fortune, I bought something very similar last week. By unlucky fortune, it's 90 miles away until I get home on Friday.

    Edit: This is the sort of stupid lack of forethought and preparation you lot are having to contend with when you try to help me.
    Last edited by WanderingTeacake; 07-01-19 at 20:57.
    2011 X351 Supersport, black with black and more black

    Previous cars: 2008 Honda Accord CDTi EX Tourer, 2002 Saab 9-5 Aero HOT, 1997 Audi S8, 1999 Subaru Legacy GTB twin turbo, 1992 Subaru Legacy turbo, 1992 Subaru Legacy GL, 1960 Austin Mini, 1976 Jensen GT, 1993 VW Corrado VR6,

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  3. #22
    Senior Member jasz1156's Avatar
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    The rest of us find the ctek excellent. The Boy have an unpleasant experience with one and his former garage!
    White XJL portfolio 3 litre s/c ecu to S MY2015

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  5. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheBoy View Post
    Whats the batt voltage during cranking?
    Reading from the OBD, it appears to be 12.2V on battery, drops to around 10V during cranking, and is then 14.8V when the engine is running.
    2011 X351 Supersport, black with black and more black

    Previous cars: 2008 Honda Accord CDTi EX Tourer, 2002 Saab 9-5 Aero HOT, 1997 Audi S8, 1999 Subaru Legacy GTB twin turbo, 1992 Subaru Legacy turbo, 1992 Subaru Legacy GL, 1960 Austin Mini, 1976 Jensen GT, 1993 VW Corrado VR6,

  6. #24
    Senior Member Poundy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WanderingTeacake View Post
    Reading from the OBD, it appears to be 12.2V on battery, drops to around 10V during cranking, and is then 14.8V when the engine is running.
    Well on paper it doesn't look too bad 14.8 is good charging rate 9-10v cranking is good, the 12.2 on battery would indicate it is need of charge or it is draining somehow. Even so if it starts the car the 14.8 being thrown back in should keep everything running ok.

    My battery is getting a little tired now and will drop to around 12.36v if left for a week or so without use. It still starts the car up straight away with no problems or gremlins lights appearing.

    I have an Autotool battery checker which tells me that my battery is now only holding 625 cca instead of the original 850 cca, the state of health is down to 65% and that I should replace it. I feel that 625cca is sufficient for my cars needs at present, so I just give it an overnight on the Ctek when it lies idle for any length of time and hope I will get another winter out of it

    It might be worth not getting too fixated on the battery being the problem and get it checked out by someone.
    Last edited by Poundy; 08-01-19 at 14:07.
    64 Plate RSport 3.0D All Black, Ceramic coated, self healing front car wrap, 19" alloys

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  8. #25
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    Today's been a bit of a trial. Drove from main work base to satellite site, 26 miles no problem. Started up to come back an hour later - loads of faults. And a different set each time I stopped.

    Then it wouldn't start at all, wouldn't even switch on the ignition. Until I tried with the driver's door open, whereupon it was fine.

    Drove to Halfords to pick up the Ctek, to find that "click and collect after 4:00pm" means "click and the stuff might arrive some point this week, we can't tell you when." So no charger.

    Drove the five miles back from Halfords to my accommodation. Put it in neutral at traffic lights (because the parking brake was disabled by the fault reading). When the lights turned green, it wouldn't go into Drive. Had to turn it off and on again to get Drive. Pulled up at the accommodation, and the selector would go into Drive or Reverse, but it wouldn't actually select a gear. Managed finally to get reverse and park the thing.

    Two additional messages I haven't seen before: coolant temperature indicator fault and charging fault. Obviously the second is most significant of those, because I'm pretty sure the coolant is fine.

    And my OBD reader was giving me a voltage reading of about 13.8V from the OBD port while all this malarkey was going on on the final run.

    Thing is: I know when I go back to it in the morning it'll act all fine like nothing happened.
    2011 X351 Supersport, black with black and more black

    Previous cars: 2008 Honda Accord CDTi EX Tourer, 2002 Saab 9-5 Aero HOT, 1997 Audi S8, 1999 Subaru Legacy GTB twin turbo, 1992 Subaru Legacy turbo, 1992 Subaru Legacy GL, 1960 Austin Mini, 1976 Jensen GT, 1993 VW Corrado VR6,

  9. #26
    Senior Member jasz1156's Avatar
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    I was talking to a mechanic mate of mine a couple of days ago.he was saying the new Euros seem to need close to 13v at rest to keep everything going.If your keys are near the car and not on a faraday cage( tin!) the car keeps checking it.If its outside it seems to monitor itself alarms etc. This is common with all he passive computerised cars not just Jags. If you have a new battery with 850 cca( big one) then it should be doing high 12 in the cold.when I had my battery changed in the 2010 XJ they connected a battery before taking out the old one to ensure continuous power. The battery guy said if you get a complete disconnect it can upset the system.
    For my part I would never risk a battery under 12.5 in one of these cars and I would be expecting around 13 . This seems to one of the most consistent gripes about new cars including XJ. I had the same on a 3 month old Volvo S90.
    White XJL portfolio 3 litre s/c ecu to S MY2015

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  11. #27
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    Thanks, jasz1156. I haven't been able to get the new battery (which is a Yuasa 100ah, 900cca one) on to a proper charge yet.

    It started fine this morning, and gave 14.8V on the OBD and 14.7V on the ECU sensors. By the time I'd done the four miles to the petrol station where I needed to fill up, the ECU voltage reading had dropped to around 14.5V.

    Filled up with fuel, and then it wouldn't start. Wouldn't switch on the ignition. I had to tell the cashier I had broken down on the pump. I went back out to get my phone to call for help, and tried just one more time. And it started.

    For the half mile from the petrol station to work, the OBD and ECU voltage readings were 13.2V, though it wasn't throwing any errors.

    This set of symptoms sounds to me like a failing alternator. What do you guys think?
    2011 X351 Supersport, black with black and more black

    Previous cars: 2008 Honda Accord CDTi EX Tourer, 2002 Saab 9-5 Aero HOT, 1997 Audi S8, 1999 Subaru Legacy GTB twin turbo, 1992 Subaru Legacy turbo, 1992 Subaru Legacy GL, 1960 Austin Mini, 1976 Jensen GT, 1993 VW Corrado VR6,

  12. #28
    Senior Member #steve's Avatar
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    One way to check the alternator is to start the car and carefully remove the battery cables (positive first) if the car keeps running the alternator is ok.
    2010 Jaguar XF 3.0 D

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  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by #steve View Post
    One way to check the alternator is to start the car and carefully remove the battery cables (positive first) if the car keeps running the alternator is ok.
    Might wear some rubber gloves to do that...
    2011 X351 Supersport, black with black and more black

    Previous cars: 2008 Honda Accord CDTi EX Tourer, 2002 Saab 9-5 Aero HOT, 1997 Audi S8, 1999 Subaru Legacy GTB twin turbo, 1992 Subaru Legacy turbo, 1992 Subaru Legacy GL, 1960 Austin Mini, 1976 Jensen GT, 1993 VW Corrado VR6,

  15. #30
    Senior Member #steve's Avatar
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    It's safe as long as long as you wrap the cables in rags or put them in a polystyrene cup.
    2010 Jaguar XF 3.0 D

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