Jaguar Forum banner

X350 / 358 - Issues, Fixes & Mods - A quick reference with Links

30K views 37 replies 18 participants last post by  FlatCap 
#1 · (Edited)
I've been meaning to start this thread for a very long time, better late than never.

I own a LWB X350 Super V8, but a lot of the Info you'll find in here will be equally helpful to all X350 & X358 models.

In some cases it may even help those who own other models of Jaguar.

I often read or see many threads that are fundamentally asking the same question, the purpose of this thread is to allow visitors to access what I and others have done, quickly.

If you have a thread detailing an issue and outcome, especially if it has images showing how to, please let me know and I'll gladly add it to this.

The links below will direct you to another thread, either at the beginning or the page where the fix begins. Reading from these points should allow you to see the whole fix, not everything is documented on the same post or page.

Jaguar Manuals - For Anything & Everything Jaguar, available on PDF

Jaguar Classic Parts - X350 / 358 Catalogue

Understanding The Long Jaguar Part No - 2W93-19D629-DD, etc

JagRepair.com - Another source For Anything & Everything Jaguar. Repairs, TSB's, OBD codes, etc, etc

Jaguar Technical Specifications - All Jaguars to 2010MY

Things I've done

F Pace Alloys - On an X350? They'll never fit? YES they do 😁

Headlining Renewal Posts 692, 699, 712, 724 & 762 - Workshop Manual Page 5675 for removal procedure

DIY Car Ramps Post 22 onward

Engine Oil Change Post 26, (FYI I now use Ford Formula F 5W30 Fully Synthetic, purchasing 20L at a time)

Differential Oil Change Post 513

Front Wheel Bearing Assembly Renewal Posts 455 & 464

Earth Stud Renewal - The 3 Behind the Headlights Posts 259 & 269

Wing Mirror Puddle Lamp Renewal Post 44

Sidelight Bulb Renewal Post 8

Rear Door Card Removal Post 91 (Removal of Fronts similar)

Rear Doors Locked Posts 82 & 51 (My mechanical Issue)

Door Interior Opening Handles - Posts 90 & 91 (Broken Spring)

The Valley Pipes - The 4.2L S/C V8's Achilles Heel Post 102

Windows Global Opening/Closing Reset Post 122

Front Seat Removal Post 196

Misfire Codes P0301 to P0308 on a V8

AC Compressor Renewal Posts 314, 327 & 331

Windscreen Washer Pump Renewal Posts 421 & 430

Caldoofy MOD - 4.2L S/C V8 Post 1099

MAF Sensor Removal and Clean 4.2L S/C V8 Post 1099

SRS System - B2292 Drivers Seatbelt Pretensioner

Fuel Filter Renewal - Post 1277

Windscreen Drainage - Post 1226 Keep clean or suffer the consequences

Lower Mesh Grille MOD - My Adaptation, more Stealth

Supercharger Oil Change - Post 1424

Rubber, The Coolant Variety - Full Renewal - How to - Post 1564 for the beginning

Secondary Air Injection Pump - The Hunt for the cause of P2444

Air Suspension Compressor Renewal - How to with images

Changing the Boot/Trunk Lid Release Button

Door Speaker Fix

Things Others have done

JagDroid - Touchscreen Upgrade - Where it ALL began

ACM - Audio Control Module - Installation (Guide includes Centre Console & Head Unit removal)

Air Suspension - A Tale of Dogged Determination - Post 200 for the Outcome

Headlining Renewal

Earth Stud Renewal - The 3 Behind the Headlights Post 99

Wing Mirror Puddle Lamp Renewal Post 8

MAF Sensor 2.7 TDVI Removal & Clean

Front Door Card Removal (Removal of Rears similar)

Bonnet/Hood Cable Release Post 9 - Reasons for and how to gain access

ACC Adaptive Cruise Repair

Blower Fan Removal & Clean

Fuel Pump Drive Belt 2.7 TDVI Renewal

Alternator 2.7 TDVI Replacement

Auxiliary Input via Radio/Cassette

Bosch AeroTwin AR608S Mod - More Water - Post 63

X350 driver’s window regulator cable repair

N/A V8 Spark Plug Change

TBC and added to this post
 
See less See more
#2 ·
Great idea Rich!

You need to add your 'earthing points' link; feel free to use the pics from mine with the secondary earths to add onto yours if it helps.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Snk Vlad
#5 ·
Nice post Rich, I'm sure others will find it helpful

Cheers
Jim
Thread moved to stickies section, looks to be that start of a good useful thread Rich!
Thank you gents and special thanks to Ian for making a sticky in what is probably the best place for it.

Jim has already moved on to the X351, I and others may follow suit at a later date, but even in 10 years or more there'll be someone who'll be running one of these beauties.

Rich
 
  • Like
Reactions: Snk Vlad
#3 ·
Nice post Rich, I'm sure others will find it helpful

Cheers
Jim
 
  • Like
Reactions: Snk Vlad
#4 ·
Thread moved to stickies section, looks to be that start of a good useful thread Rich!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Snk Vlad
#6 ·
This is a fine piece of literature young man.
I doubt you'll ever receive the accolade's of Shaw, Wilde or Poe, but they didn't drive Jaguars.

I'm flattered that you included my modest contribution, but no mention of the dreaded compressor saga?
Might be worth re-visiting the contributions. Eddie certainly made many valuable comments with novel ideas.

Great job Yoda and a boon for future owners.

Keep well my friend :-D

Phil.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Snk Vlad
#7 ·
Thanks Phil,

Duly added, a tale I might add that would have graced any Tale of Mystery and Imagination :-D

Perhaps you are Edgar reborn.
 
#8 ·
Dear old Edgar, my favourite poet and author, closely followed by Pratchett.

Funny how crazies attract one another......

Poe was as mad a a Honey Badger in a hall of mirrors and Terry P.....well, what an imagination.

Like Eddie says, we're just N.Q.R. Yoda, N.Q.R. at all........I can live with that :-D.

Phil.
 
#9 ·
#10 ·
#11 ·
Great idea, to have all the common issues, and some not so, in the one place is great.
I wish I took more photos of my budget digital TV install to allow me to write up an in-depth how to.
 
#13 ·
I've recently added some more links to further trials and tribulations within this thread.

Anyone else got something their XJ 350/358 has had done and documented?

Could be wrong, but I think the edit feature is deactivated after a set period of inactivity on a post.

Rich
 
  • Like
Reactions: Snk Vlad
#14 ·
Further addition :-D

All links accessible in post #1

Rich
 
  • Like
Reactions: Snk Vlad
#15 ·
Hi Yoda.

Just musing doing the aux input mod for my (long)redundant cassette player.
I reckon (although not done yet) this post from 2015 could help one or two of us solve this issue.

Care to trawl back to DevonDavid's post from 03/11/15 entitled 'Auxiliary Input via Radio/Cassette'?
On the surface, it's a nice piece of work and appears to have been proven, so I think I'll give it a try.

Phil.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Snk Vlad
#16 ·
Duly added Phil.
 
#19 ·
Over the past few months the bonnet on my X350 had become difficult to shut properly. It would simply not engage with the closing mechanisms without lots of attempts and jiggling of the release lever. Initially, I suspected the catches, within the locks were simply in need of cleaning and oiling, along with some WD40 down the actuating cable. This did seem to cure the problem but it returned, recently and, thus, deserved another look. The bonnet is held down in the two front locks by a loop on each side. The amount they protrude, into their respective locks, can be adjusted by a single 10mm nut. Turning this clockwise increases the protrusion. I needed some WD40 to free up the nut and where the loop slides in the mounting plate. It is a matter of ‘trial and error’ but I started with a movement of about 4mm, ensuring both are the same. Luckily, this proved adequate and now the bonnet closes as it should. If you feel more comfortable by removing both mounting plates to free-up the nut and loop, in a vice, then remember to outline each plate with a felt-tip pen so they go back in exactly the original place. This is necessary because there are no guiding dowels and the size of the holes do permit several mm of movement. If this is the first time you have experienced this problem, then I recommend you clean the locks and cable etc, as part of the adjustment exercise. Allow yourself about an hour and enlist a helper to operate the internal lever during the oiling process.

It’s very satisfying to know the bonnet now works properly and I have saved an hours labour in the process!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Snk Vlad
#20 ·
Over the past few months the bonnet on my X350 had become difficult to shut properly. It would simply not engage with the closing mechanisms without lots of attempts and jiggling of the release lever. Initially, I suspected the catches, within the locks were simply in need of cleaning and oiling, along with some WD40 down the actuating cable. This did seem to cure the problem but it returned, recently and, thus, deserved another look. The bonnet is held down in the two front locks by a loop on each side. The amount they protrude, into their respective locks, can be adjusted by a single 10mm nut. Turning this clockwise increases the protrusion. I needed some WD40 to free up the nut and where the loop slides in the mounting plate. It is a matter of ‘trial and error’ but I started with a movement of about 4mm, ensuring both are the same. Luckily, this proved adequate and now the bonnet closes as it should. If you feel more comfortable by removing both mounting plates to free-up the nut and loop, in a vice, then remember to outline each plate with a felt-tip pen so they go back in exactly the original place. This is necessary because there are no guiding dowels and the size of the holes do permit several mm of movement. If this is the first time you have experienced this problem, then I recommend you clean the locks and cable etc, as part of the adjustment exercise. Allow yourself about an hour and enlist a helper to operate the internal lever during the oiling process.



It’s very satisfying to know the bonnet now works properly and I have saved an hours labour in the process!
 
#21 ·
Over the past few months the bonnet on my X350 had become difficult to shut properly. It would simply not engage with the closing mechanisms without lots of attempts and jiggling of the release lever. Initially, I suspected the catches, within the locks were simply in need of cleaning and oiling, along with some WD40 down the actuating cable. This did seem to cure the problem but it returned, recently and, thus, deserved another look. The bonnet is held down in the two front locks by a loop on each side. The amount they protrude, into their respective locks, can be adjusted by a single 10mm nut. Turning this clockwise increases the protrusion. I needed some WD40 to free up the nut and where the loop slides in the mounting plate. It is a matter of 'trial and error' but I started with a movement of about 4mm, ensuring both are the same. Luckily, this proved adequate and now the bonnet closes as it should. If you feel more comfortable by removing both mounting plates to free-up the nut and loop, in a vice, then remember to outline each plate with a felt-tip pen so they go back in exactly the original place. This is necessary because there are no guiding dowels and the size of the holes do permit several mm of movement. If this is the first time you have experienced this problem, then I recommend you clean the locks and cable etc, as part of the adjustment exercise. Allow yourself about an hour and enlist a helper to operate the internal lever during the oiling process.

It's very satisfying to know the bonnet now works properly and I have saved an hours labour in the process!
I'd suggest WD40 is NOT the best lubricant for the job long term.
I'd use a spray grease as much as the WD40 will remove any dried up grease it also leaves no lubricant in the mechanism.
 
#23 · (Edited)
This in not the thread for problems,more for solutions,suggest you start a separate thread for the discussion of your gearbox issue. Welcome and we like photos
 
#28 ·
I'll go and rectify that now, gotta find it though.
 
  • Like
Reactions: restorer
#29 ·
Thread POST 1 updated with new Fix
 
  • Like
Reactions: restorer
#31 · (Edited)
Further Fix added, No excuses now Duke.

Boot Release Button Replacement
 
  • Like
Reactions: restorer
#32 · (Edited)
Addition added to 1st post

Air Suspension Compressor Renewal
 
Top