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Thread: XK Rattles from rear passenger trim?

  1. #1
    Junior Member PaulPig's Avatar
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    XK Rattles from rear passenger trim?

    Hi Everyone,

    just recently i have developed what sounds like something loose in the rear passenger trim, but only when i turn hard to the right.

    just wondered if anyone knows how to remove the trim and also the main door trim as it rattles a bit in there too.

    Thanks in advance
    4.2 Coupe Nov 2007 Silver 20'' Senta Alloy Wheels,Alpine Dolby Pro Logic 525-watt surround sound system,Enhanced Computer Active Technology Suspension,Adaptive Front Lighting-AFL,Cruise Control & ASL,Rear Lip Spoiler,Exterior electrochromic door mirrors,power adjustable and heated with memory function,Door Mounted Puddle Lights, Rain Sensor Wipers, Front & Rear Park Sensors with Visual Aid,Seats with 10-way electric adjustment including 2-way variable lumbar, variable heating

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    The door trim has two torque screw heads in the arm rest and one on the door edge, numerous plastic clips round the edge of the panel .when these are free the panel needs to go up to release the panel from the bottom of the window
    hth

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    Junior Member PaulPig's Avatar
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    Thank you for your reply
    4.2 Coupe Nov 2007 Silver 20'' Senta Alloy Wheels,Alpine Dolby Pro Logic 525-watt surround sound system,Enhanced Computer Active Technology Suspension,Adaptive Front Lighting-AFL,Cruise Control & ASL,Rear Lip Spoiler,Exterior electrochromic door mirrors,power adjustable and heated with memory function,Door Mounted Puddle Lights, Rain Sensor Wipers, Front & Rear Park Sensors with Visual Aid,Seats with 10-way electric adjustment including 2-way variable lumbar, variable heating

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    Senior Member Aonsaithya's Avatar
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    I had a similar issue, although in my case passenger side is on the right side of the car. The trim was loose at the very top, and after dismantling the rear seats to get a better look (easy, all the leather bits are just clipped in), I found that the trim piece wasn't attached to the clips. To pry the wall apart a bit, I think there were some bolts that were only accessible after dismantling the seats. I did not remove the front seat anchor! See the service manual (HUGE PDF) for more information.

    Here's a photo of the left side, which was alright, which I took to see how it's supposed to sit there:

    Quite a lot of empty space in there...

    Getting the clip to slide into the slot was quite difficult, but in the end I prevailed and it's stayed put since.
    Ex: 2007 XK 4.2 - Liquid Silver & Charcoal
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    2001 X-Type 2.5 SE - Platinum, Dove & Granite

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    Junior Member PaulPig's Avatar
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    Thank you very much for your reply very helpful indeed. 4000page PDF i see what you mean

    Thanks again I'll probably have a go over the Easter weekend.
    4.2 Coupe Nov 2007 Silver 20'' Senta Alloy Wheels,Alpine Dolby Pro Logic 525-watt surround sound system,Enhanced Computer Active Technology Suspension,Adaptive Front Lighting-AFL,Cruise Control & ASL,Rear Lip Spoiler,Exterior electrochromic door mirrors,power adjustable and heated with memory function,Door Mounted Puddle Lights, Rain Sensor Wipers, Front & Rear Park Sensors with Visual Aid,Seats with 10-way electric adjustment including 2-way variable lumbar, variable heating

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    Junior Member PaulPig's Avatar
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    Thought i would give an update to the “rattles/thumps” i was experiencing. After all that it was in fact the rear shock absorbers failing. Having had them replaced last week it is now like a completely different car to drive.

    Thanks for the advice. One thing i learnt its not always loose trim, but found it amazing that the thumping from the rear shocks sounded like it was right behind the drivers seat but was in fact from the back end.
    4.2 Coupe Nov 2007 Silver 20'' Senta Alloy Wheels,Alpine Dolby Pro Logic 525-watt surround sound system,Enhanced Computer Active Technology Suspension,Adaptive Front Lighting-AFL,Cruise Control & ASL,Rear Lip Spoiler,Exterior electrochromic door mirrors,power adjustable and heated with memory function,Door Mounted Puddle Lights, Rain Sensor Wipers, Front & Rear Park Sensors with Visual Aid,Seats with 10-way electric adjustment including 2-way variable lumbar, variable heating

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    Talking of shock-absorbers / dampers: presumably yours were the CATS ('Computer Active Technolgy') type, which I understand are the most common type: does anyone know - is it possible for these to deteriorate or to 'soften up' without actually failing in the way which yours did?

    Most dampers can do so, and I presume the car's built-in diagnostic system would not necessarily pick this up since this would be a mechanical / hydraulic deterioration, not any kind of electrical / electronic / computer-related malfunction. Mine do not show any fault codes.

    I ask because when, eleven years ago, I test-drove a new 4.2 litre XK convertible (almost identical to my present 12-year-old, 120,000 mile car) the thing which really, deeply impressed me was the complete contrast between the smooth, absorbent ride when gently cruising and then the way everything instantly sharpened up and the suspension went firm the moment you began to welly it.

    I no longer notice this phenomenon - this glorious 'Jekyl and Hyde' character - when I drive my present car. Have I just got used to it?
    Last edited by Titus; 22-04-19 at 10:36.
    Jaguar 2007 4.2 litre XK (X150) convertible
    Maxzda 2007 MX-5 2.0 litre (non - 'Sport') roadster-coupe
    Skoda 2007 Octavia 2.0TDI 4WD (not a Scout) estate
    Reliant 1975 Scimitar GTE SE5a (off the road after 243,000 from new)

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    Junior Member PaulPig's Avatar
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    Hi,

    Yes i do have the CATS type I think as it was a gradual degradation i never really noticed the slight wallowyness when cornering as i put it down to the state of the roads. It was only when knocking started i checked loose trim as that was what it sounded like, but as it got progressively louder i thought i would just get the underside looked at. Before the technician could speak i saw all the oil on the near side rear shock!! So with me under the car as well found the bush on the offside was very loose, that must have been the knocking. Anyway after having them both changed, wow what a difference its now very solid at the rear and cornering is a dream. I did check the diagnostics and as you said as it was progressive mechanical failure no errors at all. I don’t think it will be too long before I have to change the fronts, but so far they seem and appear OK. I had to source from Jag as 3rd party ones were on a 2 month back order, a bit worrying as MoT is in 3 weeks. Certainly notice change in suspension now when hoofing it. The smile has returned
    4.2 Coupe Nov 2007 Silver 20'' Senta Alloy Wheels,Alpine Dolby Pro Logic 525-watt surround sound system,Enhanced Computer Active Technology Suspension,Adaptive Front Lighting-AFL,Cruise Control & ASL,Rear Lip Spoiler,Exterior electrochromic door mirrors,power adjustable and heated with memory function,Door Mounted Puddle Lights, Rain Sensor Wipers, Front & Rear Park Sensors with Visual Aid,Seats with 10-way electric adjustment including 2-way variable lumbar, variable heating

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaulPig View Post
    Hi,

    Yes i do have the CATS type I think as it was a gradual degradation i never really noticed the slight wallowyness when cornering as i put it down to the state of the roads. It was only when knocking started i checked loose trim as that was what it sounded like, but as it got progressively louder i thought i would just get the underside looked at. Before the technician could speak i saw all the oil on the near side rear shock!! So with me under the car as well found the bush on the offside was very loose, that must have been the knocking. Anyway after having them both changed, wow what a difference its now very solid at the rear and cornering is a dream. I did check the diagnostics and as you said as it was progressive mechanical failure no errors at all. I don’t think it will be too long before I have to change the fronts, but so far they seem and appear OK. I had to source from Jag as 3rd party ones were on a 2 month back order, a bit worrying as MoT is in 3 weeks. Certainly notice change in suspension now when hoofing it. The smile has returned
    Thanks - that's really helpful to know. I wonder if there is any objective / workshop / measurable way of determining the actual extent of any such mechanical / hydraulic (i.e., non-electrical) deterioration? I doubt that you'd be able to detect it in the traditional way of just pressing down on each corner of the car! I wouldn't want to shell out mega-money on new dampers if mine are in fact still performing quite normally.

    To save me looking (me idle!) - what was the cost of replacement dampers, please?
    Jaguar 2007 4.2 litre XK (X150) convertible
    Maxzda 2007 MX-5 2.0 litre (non - 'Sport') roadster-coupe
    Skoda 2007 Octavia 2.0TDI 4WD (not a Scout) estate
    Reliant 1975 Scimitar GTE SE5a (off the road after 243,000 from new)

  10. #10
    Junior Member PaulPig's Avatar
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    Hi

    They were £400/each plus fitting so all in around £1200. Ouch but my it was worth it

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