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Thread: Knocking sound then sudden death!

  1. #161
    Senior Member rapala's Avatar
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    I would be leaning towards trying a tow start now.
    2.2 d sport X Type in British Racing Green metallic with cream leather interior, six disc changer, heated seats,heated screens, hid kit,upper and lower mesh grilles, headlamp power wash.( Has now gone on to new owner) Replaced with a metallic black 2.2 XF sport with extra toys.

  2. #162
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    i would use some easy start to get some rpm not just to the engine but the pump
    2005 x type 2.0D estate sport in black

  3. #163
    Senior Member Billy2Jags's Avatar
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    Just keep cranking it.
    Personally, I wouldn't recommend a tow or bump as these engines are susceptible to slipping the timing chain if not careful.
    Current. 2011 XFS Portfolio. Lunar Grey (LJZ) / Black (LEG).
    Previous. 2012 XF Premium Luxury. Remapped 307 BHP / 449 lb/ft. Italian Racing Red (CAH) / Barley
    Previous. 2005 55 reg 06MY 2.0D Sovereign. Jaguar Racing Green - HGZ.
    In storage.1988 Daimler XJ40. Bordeaux Red / Doeskin.

  4. #164
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    I bought a new Bosch fuel filter and after much head scratching found that the drain valve was letting air in, but not fuel out under negative pressure - so it would all be fine until the pump started sucking. I would give the water drain valve an extra hard tighten. https://www.jaguarforum.com/showthre...=1#post1221789
    X-Type 06 2.0L Diesel Estate - "Schrodinger"- Now rescued from the clutches of the evil physicist.. the cat purrring

  5. #165
    Senior Member RF900R's Avatar
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    Well due to the horrific weather this weekend I wasn't able to get much done. However, I did go back to basics and check a few things out. Before anyone asks "what the hell" and "how didn't you see that", please be aware that I've been doing this at night under a street light and torch!

    First thing I noticed. The fuel sender unit wasn't sitting squarely back in place from when I had first started siphoning the fuel out. Gave it a bit a wiggle and the whole top unit dropped about 15 mm back onto the fuel tank. Tightened that back up and now confident it's seated properly.

    Secondly, managed to get a proper siphon out from the fuel feed pipe (the one that attached to the fuel filter). No air bubbles, definitely the correct fuel coming through now, and can maintain a positive flow when siphoning with no perceptible air bubbles.

    Thirdly, and this is where the "working at night" and "poor light" bit comes in. Once I had figured out what the problem was, I immediately ordered a new fuel filter. The one that got contaminated had only been on the car a few months as it needed to be replaced for the MOT due to dodgy emissions. So I photographed the old one to have a reference to where all the pipes went when connecting the new one. However, it would seem that the guy who fitted the old one for the MOT had the send / return pipes arse about face (basically, in the cold light of day, I could see both arrows on the filter were pointing to the back of the car, whereas I believe they should point to the front, i.e. the direction of fuel flow). Not a problem I guess as the car ran perfectly well. However, if this is only a theory, when that was replace, I'm assuming that there was already "some" pressure in the system, and would be able to overcome the non-return valve (presuming there is one)? When the replacement filter was fitted to a system with no pressure, then it would be harder to overcome? Anyhow, (another) new filter fitted and primed and then back to it (the one I took off also had a rattle when I shook it which makes me think there's a ball type non-return valve). In my mind, this could be why the engine was sucking fuel out of the filter, but the filter was not refilling from the fuel tank.

    When people are saying crack the injector fuel pipes, are you talking one at a time or all at once? Also, cracking the bolt slightly or totally undoing it? Sorry for all the stoopid questions, but this is starting to bug me now. Cheers.
    2006 X-Type 2.0 SE Diesel Estate: 136,000 miles and climbing!
    Heart of Gold, Nerves of Steel, Knob of Butter.

  6. #166
    Senior Member Billy2Jags's Avatar
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    If you have a good flow of fuel to the injectors there's no need to crack the feed pipes (just literally loosen the nuts) as the system will self bleed.
    You may find it runs a bit lumpy at first, but if you hold the revs up, the air will clear and it will soon settle down.
    Current. 2011 XFS Portfolio. Lunar Grey (LJZ) / Black (LEG).
    Previous. 2012 XF Premium Luxury. Remapped 307 BHP / 449 lb/ft. Italian Racing Red (CAH) / Barley
    Previous. 2005 55 reg 06MY 2.0D Sovereign. Jaguar Racing Green - HGZ.
    In storage.1988 Daimler XJ40. Bordeaux Red / Doeskin.

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  8. #167
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    On the filter one arrow points in to the spigot/pipe - that's the inlet from the tank, and one points out from the spigot, that's the outlet. The small one is the return that has a thermostatic valve in it that opens when the fuel is cold and closes when tit is hot so that cold fuel is recirculated to heat up faster.

    I would try without any cracking of the unions, that is extremely high pressure fuel and you don't want to mess with it.
    X-Type 06 2.0L Diesel Estate - "Schrodinger"- Now rescued from the clutches of the evil physicist.. the cat purrring

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  10. #168
    Senior Member Zero123's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RF900R View Post
    .......So I photographed the old one to have a reference to where all the pipes went when connecting the new one. However, it would seem that the guy who fitted the old one for the MOT had the send / return pipes arse about face (basically, in the cold light of day, I could see both arrows on the filter were pointing to the back of the car, whereas I believe they should point to the front, i.e. the direction of fuel flow). Not a problem I guess as the car ran perfectly well. However, if this is only a theory, when that was replace, I'm assuming that there was already "some" pressure in the system, and would be able to overcome the non-return valve (presuming there is one)? When the replacement filter was fitted to a system with no pressure, then it would be harder to overcome? Anyhow, (another) new filter fitted and primed and then back to it (the one I took off also had a rattle when I shook it which makes me think there's a ball type non-return valve). In my mind, this could be why the engine was sucking fuel out of the filter, but the filter was not refilling from the fuel tank.....
    There is a slight rattle when shaking the fuel filter (I've got a spare one in the garage) but as regards the arrows they both face in opposite directions and when fitted it's more left and right not front to back.
    "I know I'm a pessimist because my glass is always half empty...even when it's full".

    2009 X-Type 2.2D Sovereign - Indigo Blue with Ivory Leather

  11. #169
    Senior Member Jag-Black's Avatar
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    You're doing a great job. Hampered by wet and dark will cause the best mechanic problems.

    You're eliminating stuff all the time so hang in there mate.

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