It was in 2002 when my wife needed to replace a tyre on her S type. It was a year old and had only been serviced by Jaguar main dealers. The wheel would not come off because the locking wheel not key would not sit properly on the older style locking nuts with two slots in. This was because of the usual story where some idiot had left his air gun, needlessly, on maximum torque. It took a tyre fitter some long time and the breakage of some of his tools to remove all four.

Fast forward to this week when a friend phoned me and asked how he could get his nuts off because his key M for mother had sheared. As I run a removal service I said I had one and told him to come round. He had been drinking at the time. When he arrived I discovered he did not have the more recent domed locking nuts but the older slotted style which have a letter engraved on them. He had got a bit confused (befuddled?) and his nuts displayed M for mother but was S for sugar which cross references with key 12! Anyway he was in luck because I had one. I think I have (now had!) them all but that is another story.

I started with my normal procedure of checking which ordinary nuts on which wheels were on loosest and started from there and got two off. Things then got a bit rocky as the key did not want to bite on either of the last two so he went to the local tyre fitters who got one off with an airgun and then broke the key on the fourth. My friend came back and I decided to call in the big guns.

There is a very good video, easily found on YouTube, of an American removing the domed style nuts entitled:Jaguar Wheel Lock Removal. Most importantly he resorts to using Irwin Bolt grips which are excellent.

As well as using that the above I also employed a long breaker bar, a 1/2 to 3/8 inch adapter, a Sealey 19 mm socket and some block pavingbricks would do just as well.

It is important to get the offending nut at the correct height by moving the car so that the bricks can be stacked up such that the socket, when attached to the breaker bar, will sit directly on the nut and not angle down. Be sure to place the blocks so that the socket and breaker bar can still rotate anti-clockwise!

Anyway I whacked the Irwin Bolt grip 3/4 inch onto the nut making sure it was on straight, arranged the block paviers, located the socket, got my friend to put his foot on it and then got hold of the end of the breaker bar. It was still very hard to move! In the end I did what I usually have to do and stood on it. Then came the relieving noise of the creaking given out by a nut which was overtightened releasing.

Of course when I got it off then I was stuck fast to the bolt grip but when I tightened it again it released easily and the nut was then loose enough to remove once more.

I decided to make this post because the tools worked very efficiently and I rather wish I had taken this approach in the first place before I broke two locking wheel nut key is costing a fortune. Incidentally If you need to perform the similar operation having cut the dome off one of the newer keys it is the 11/16 inch bolt grip you will need to fit onto the central shaft.

I have never let anyone else tighten my wheel nuts for the last 20 years and suggest you consider taking the same approach. Finally a reminder: make sure you have your locking wheel nut code stored safely in about three safe places. It should be written on your vehicle documentation it is not in 90% of cases. I know because of all the people who contact me not knowing theirs. If you do not take this precaution it will cost you dearly and then there is the game of identifying which key you need if you have lost your domed locking wheel nut key! If you lose your slotted locking wheel not key you are probably doomed unless you drive round to somebody who has a master set and can try them all for you.

Hope this helps get someone out of trouble.