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Thread: More Battery Problems

  1. #41
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    Might be worth adding some fuel to it just in case. I wonder if the gauge is wrong and you are below the pump intake. See what happens when you manually run that fuel pump.
    2007 S type R, Radiance Red/ Champagne

  2. #42
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    If one part of the fuel tank is empty and the other part holds fuel you get 2 different readings from the fuel senders hence the error code for the fuel level.
    '71 Ford Capri 7.0l V8 Dart block with EFI and a modified Dodge Viper 6 speed.
    '69 Ford P7 20M Hardtop coupe with the running gear and with all electronics and aircon/heater of a '01 3.0 v6 Jaguar S type.
    '01 Ford Fiesta with a almighty 1.3 engine.

  3. #43
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    I think I may be getting somewhere at last. Fuel pump & transfer pump don't run but are getting power at greater than 10.5 Volts. However, in addition, testing the fuel sensor pins 2 to ground on both left and right units should show less than 0.5 ohms - they don't, so the manual says renew/repair relevant circuit.
    I'm hoping it's a wiring problem, as I can't see how the pumps AND the senders could all fail simultaneously. I think the shot fuse might give a clue to a short in the wiring somewhere. Anyway, I've now found out where all the wires go, so it is just time consuming checking grounds and shorts in the wiring I suppose. With the car in full sun its bl***y hot, which doesn't help!
    Current Vehicles: 2001 Jaguar S-type 4.0 V8 Pacific Blue, Ivory leather, Dynamic wheels
    1999 Jaguar XJ8 4.0 V8 Madeira pearl metallic, Oatmeal leather, Nice jag wheels
    2012 Jeep Compass Limited 2.4 Auto, Gunmetal, black leather, big 18" alloys
    1956 Fordson major diesel, Sky Blue, perf. metal seat, orange 36" wheels

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Mike View Post
    I think I may be getting somewhere at last. Fuel pump & transfer pump don't run but are getting power at greater than 10.5 Volts. However, in addition, testing the fuel sensor pins 2 to ground on both left and right units should show less than 0.5 ohms - they don't, so the manual says renew/repair relevant circuit.
    I'm hoping it's a wiring problem, as I can't see how the pumps AND the senders could all fail simultaneously. I think the shot fuse might give a clue to a short in the wiring somewhere. Anyway, I've now found out where all the wires go, so it is just time consuming checking grounds and shorts in the wiring I suppose. With the car in full sun its bl***y hot, which doesn't help!
    You seem to get power but i think you need to recharge the battery.

    Could this not be a earth problem of the rear Control module? You could check pin CA101-2 (fuel pump ground) and CA102-12 (ground for the fuel senders) both grounds go to the same earth point. TRUNK; RH REAR SIDE; ADJACENT TO RECM / TRUNK RH TRIM.

    With the car in full sun its bl***y hot, which doesn't help!
    Tell me about it. I just replaced 2 heater servos under the dash as both had a fault code for circuit failure and would not work anymore. Turned out they weren't faulty but the levers of the servo's needed to be placed in the correct position before installing them.
    '71 Ford Capri 7.0l V8 Dart block with EFI and a modified Dodge Viper 6 speed.
    '69 Ford P7 20M Hardtop coupe with the running gear and with all electronics and aircon/heater of a '01 3.0 v6 Jaguar S type.
    '01 Ford Fiesta with a almighty 1.3 engine.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by capri v8 driver View Post
    You seem to get power but i think you need to recharge the battery.

    Could this not be a earth problem of the rear Control module? You could check pin CA101-2 (fuel pump ground) and CA102-12 (ground for the fuel senders) both grounds go to the same earth point. TRUNK; RH REAR SIDE; ADJACENT TO RECM / TRUNK RH TRIM.



    Tell me about it. I just replaced 2 heater servos under the dash as both had a fault code for circuit failure and would not work anymore. Turned out they weren't faulty but the levers of the servo's needed to be placed in the correct position before installing them.
    Hi capri V8 driver, the battery is at 13.1 volts, but the reason I quoted 10.5v is because that is thee figure in the minimum to achieve in the manual.

    I gave up on the S-type for a while and did some work on the XJ - at least then I could get some result! Then I felt guilty and went back to it.

    I am now convinced it is a ground / earthing problem as I apparently have no pumps and no fuel senders working! I must have the same manual as you, as your quoted checks are what I am already covering. But before I fully complete the job, I have just popped into the house for a couple of whiskies!!
    Current Vehicles: 2001 Jaguar S-type 4.0 V8 Pacific Blue, Ivory leather, Dynamic wheels
    1999 Jaguar XJ8 4.0 V8 Madeira pearl metallic, Oatmeal leather, Nice jag wheels
    2012 Jeep Compass Limited 2.4 Auto, Gunmetal, black leather, big 18" alloys
    1956 Fordson major diesel, Sky Blue, perf. metal seat, orange 36" wheels

  6. #46
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    Ok, All grounds ok, doesn't seem to be any problem with grounds to/from the rear control module, but I noticed, just by chance, that I have a voltage at FP3 and FP4 pins 2 of about 12 volts even when the ignition is off and the key out of ignition. Pumps won't run when supplied with 12v separately. All this is new to me now as I didn't have any current before when the ignition was off. All I have done is to remove the rear control module and check the grounds then replaced it. Any ideas anyone? In any case the car will still not start. Also, all relays other than one in the rear fuse box are red hot. Even when the ignition is off , as long as the battery is connected. I read somewhere that all stay on for some 40 minutes after shutdown, but when I went back to the vehicle some time later, they were still hot! This is obviously why my new battery drops to `12.1 v overnight. Do I needs another rear control unit? How easy is it to remove the locking ring on the fuel tanks without the jaguar 'special tool'? Does anyone want a nice S-type for spares? Cos it won't be long before I decide to get shot at this rate! I'm going bananas!
    Current Vehicles: 2001 Jaguar S-type 4.0 V8 Pacific Blue, Ivory leather, Dynamic wheels
    1999 Jaguar XJ8 4.0 V8 Madeira pearl metallic, Oatmeal leather, Nice jag wheels
    2012 Jeep Compass Limited 2.4 Auto, Gunmetal, black leather, big 18" alloys
    1956 Fordson major diesel, Sky Blue, perf. metal seat, orange 36" wheels

  7. #47
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    Mike, when you remove the key from the ignition does the little flap in the barrel close.
    Jim.
    2012 XKR Black pack, Speed Pack, Aero pack, Rat pack. Past:-87'XJS 3.6L, 93'XJ40 3.2L gold, 95'XJ6 4.0L sport, 00'XJ8 3.2L sport, 2005 XK8 4.2L coupe, 2009 XK 5.0L Portfolio in that order and enjoyed all of 'em.

    I do not offer advice, I only say what I would do with the set of circumstances presented. Your choice always.

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  9. #48
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    Like jimbov8 has said when you pull it out the flaps should close ��

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  11. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Mike View Post
    Ok, All grounds ok, doesn't seem to be any problem with grounds to/from the rear control module, but I noticed, just by chance, that I have a voltage at FP3 and FP4 pins 2 of about 12 volts even when the ignition is off and the key out of ignition. Pumps won't run when supplied with 12v separately. All this is new to me now as I didn't have any current before when the ignition was off. All I have done is to remove the rear control module and check the grounds then replaced it. Any ideas anyone? In any case the car will still not start. Also, all relays other than one in the rear fuse box are red hot. Even when the ignition is off , as long as the battery is connected. I read somewhere that all stay on for some 40 minutes after shutdown, but when I went back to the vehicle some time later, they were still hot! This is obviously why my new battery drops to `12.1 v overnight. Do I needs another rear control unit? How easy is it to remove the locking ring on the fuel tanks without the jaguar 'special tool'? Does anyone want a nice S-type for spares? Cos it won't be long before I decide to get shot at this rate! I'm going bananas!
    If the pumps don't run when you supply a separate 12 volt and earth than the pumps are bad. The ring of the fuel pump is screwed on. I remove the rings with a flat screwdriver and a hammer.

    Not going in sleep mode after 40 minutes is a issue.

    Things that keep the car from going in sleep mode:

    Key Fob Activity (Any Command)
    Door Ajar or door lock (Any Door)
    Luggage Compartment Ajar Switch
    Drivers Power Seat Switch
    Power Tilt/Telescopic Steering Column
    Headlamps/Park Lamps On
    Interior lightning
    Key In Ignition
    Key On Ignition
    Anti-Theft Hood Switch (if your car has one)
    Brake Pedal Switch
    Memory Seat Switch
    Wiring issues.

    To be sure i would use a multimeter and measure the amps drawn from the battery. After 45 minutes it should be 0.07 amps or slightly less.

    The rear electronic control module is nothing more than a programmable switchboard that respons to or sends a SCP messages. They don't fail that often. The reason the rear electronic control module keeps powering the relais is because its told to by the message/control center because something or some module is still active.

    Its a very time consuming and frustrating task to find the problem as you need to connect a multimeter between the earth cable and minus of the battery to measure the drawn amps (keep the multimeter connected when testing and don't try to start the car) and disconnect each mentioned module or switch separate and wait 45 minutes for it to go to sleep (or not and then you disconnect the next module or switch and wait 45 minutes again). If all the modules or switches are checked and the problem still exist you are faced with a wiring problem. In that case i would brake the car up and sell it in the parts to get the most money out of it.
    '71 Ford Capri 7.0l V8 Dart block with EFI and a modified Dodge Viper 6 speed.
    '69 Ford P7 20M Hardtop coupe with the running gear and with all electronics and aircon/heater of a '01 3.0 v6 Jaguar S type.
    '01 Ford Fiesta with a almighty 1.3 engine.

  12. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jimbov8 View Post
    Mike, when you remove the key from the ignition does the little flap in the barrel close.
    Jim, If you mean the small spring loaded flap in the entrance to the key-hole, YES it does. But I've been a bit stupid (probably cos I can't think straight any more!) but I disconnected the boot light bulbs as I was spending so much time in that area, but forgot that the boot would have a security switch. I left it open and that may be why the relays wouldn't shut down. This morning I checked it out and all Okay with that now.

    Thanks for your comments too capriV8driver, I liked your last comment the best...I'm working my way towards it, but I can't quite decide to bite the bullet yet as I still can't get my head round the fact that all was well when I started a bit of rust conversion on the sub-frame, then ended up with a blown fuel pump fuse, duff pumps and sensors, and a problem with the steering lock interfacing with the front control module. Before I take out the pumps/senders I'm going to put everything back together, then clear all faults and do a new full diagnostics check, then start again. I have been barking up too many wrong trees I feel.
    This car has an incredibly well documented history and reading through it all last night it turns out that it has suffered a number of electrical problems before...maybe this is just the continuation of all that.
    Current Vehicles: 2001 Jaguar S-type 4.0 V8 Pacific Blue, Ivory leather, Dynamic wheels
    1999 Jaguar XJ8 4.0 V8 Madeira pearl metallic, Oatmeal leather, Nice jag wheels
    2012 Jeep Compass Limited 2.4 Auto, Gunmetal, black leather, big 18" alloys
    1956 Fordson major diesel, Sky Blue, perf. metal seat, orange 36" wheels

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