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Thread: More Battery Problems

  1. #51
    Senior Member Jimbov8's Avatar
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    Very good idea Mike, start from scratch having cleared all codes.

    Then deal with one problem at a time and don’t get distracted. Follow the wiring diagram step by step.
    Let us know what happens when you get back to the beginning then we can go from there.
    Jim.
    2012 XKR Black pack, Speed Pack, Aero pack, Rat pack. Past:-87'XJS 3.6L, 93'XJ40 3.2L gold, 95'XJ6 4.0L sport, 00'XJ8 3.2L sport, 2005 XK8 4.2L coupe, 2009 XK 5.0L Portfolio in that order and enjoyed all of 'em.

    I do not offer advice, I only say what I would do with the set of circumstances presented. Your choice always.

  2. #52
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    Mike, be careful about keep deleting fault codes. If you do, ensure you write them all down and keep a log. Sometimes a cleared fault code will not reset, and can cause issues. As previously offered, if you're not too far away, I could bring the Mongoose and lap top along and scan with IDS. That's the only reliable diagnostic tool I've found for these cars, and it also gives a 'most likely cause' and 'best course of action' for any faults it might find.
    If the car was running perfectly well, and all you've done is jacked it up to take care of some rust on the subframe, it can't be anything too serious. Unless of course, you were welding and have fried the electrics with current spikes?

    Regards, OW
    1999 S Type 3.0L SE, A truly lovely old girl that's served me well. Probably the best car I've had. Now retired.
    02.5MY (X202) S Type 2.5L SE, 58,000 miles, full Jag s/h, all papers, MOT's, receipts etc from new when purchased.
    2006 X type SE 2.2 Diesel. Supposed to be Mrs O's economical commuter car.
    2004 (X202) 2.5L Sport plus, to replace the 3.0L

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Mike View Post
    Jim, If you mean the small spring loaded flap in the entrance to the key-hole, YES it does. But I've been a bit stupid (probably cos I can't think straight any more!) but I disconnected the boot light bulbs as I was spending so much time in that area, but forgot that the boot would have a security switch. I left it open and that may be why the relays wouldn't shut down. This morning I checked it out and all Okay with that now.

    Thanks for your comments too capriV8driver, I liked your last comment the best...I'm working my way towards it, but I can't quite decide to bite the bullet yet as I still can't get my head round the fact that all was well when I started a bit of rust conversion on the sub-frame, then ended up with a blown fuel pump fuse, duff pumps and sensors, and a problem with the steering lock interfacing with the front control module. Before I take out the pumps/senders I'm going to put everything back together, then clear all faults and do a new full diagnostics check, then start again. I have been barking up too many wrong trees I feel.
    This car has an incredibly well documented history and reading through it all last night it turns out that it has suffered a number of electrical problems before...maybe this is just the continuation of all that.
    Well at least the going to sleep problem is sorted. That problem could be a real pain to solve if you are unlucky. I would go with the offering from Orsom and use IDS. The steering lock is controlled by the front and rear control module and it could be something like a bad seated or corroded connector.

    Keep in mind that the S type is already 12 to 20 years old. In your case 20 years old. Wiring (cracked insulation) and connectors get old to and jaguar used normal tin plated pins in the connectors witch can corrode over time. Most connectors in the car don't have any water or moisture proofing. And it's a common complain that there is water coming in the boot of the S type due failed boot lid and light seals causing a lot of electric problems. So a good contact cleaner and a silicone grease, sometimes called dielectric grease can solve that problem with the connectors and a connection pin inside the modules.
    '71 Ford Capri 7.0l V8 Dart block with EFI and a modified Dodge Viper 6 speed.
    '69 Ford P7 20M Hardtop coupe with the running gear and with all electronics and aircon/heater of a '01 3.0 v6 Jaguar S type.
    '01 Ford Fiesta with a almighty 1.3 engine.

  4. #54
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    OK Guys, thanks for all the help & support. I'll reply to each of you separately below:

    CapriV8driver - Bessy was very upset when you said she was 20 years old. That will be in July 2021! But yes, I get your points. The boot is actually very well sealed and no trace of moisture. I think there must have been a recall some time back to modify the boot seal as it is very deep and sealed with some form of gunge. Anyway it's airtight apart from a small drain hole with a short tube outlet at the rear, under the spare wheel. When I looked at the rear control module it looked as fresh as a daisy. There is absolutely no rust or even discoloration of the paint finish.

    Orsom - Yes, I have fallen foul of deleting codes already, but luckily I wrote them down - they have been repeatedly coming up all the time. I will eventually accede to your offer I feel, but for the moment I'm going to try to resolve the faults I've found. No welding done so no frying electrics.

    Jim - Ok, everything is now back in it's place, and all connections checked. I cancelled the known faults and re-diagnosed with the following results:
    No faults in modules/packs ABS, RCM, IP, AU, DDM, DSM, GECM, PACM, RECM
    There were faults as follows:
    Power Train Control Module gave me a message: "System check not completed since last memory clear / on board diagnostic (OBD) system readiness test not complete / check of all OBD systems is incomplete since last memory clear.
    Message Centre Conrol Module:SCP (J1850) Invalid or missing message for fuel system, SCP (J1850) Communications Bus Fault.
    The PCM message I have no idea how to deal with. but the fuel system one is clearly the pump problem.

    The fuel pumps/senders are getting voltage, even when the ignition is off and the key removed, could this be because the pcm is calling for fuel and the pumps are not responding or is the relay or diode duff? Relay clicks, on and off ok when battery is connected/disconnected even when ignition is off.

    An interesting point: if the plastic trim across the rear of the boot is removed, the boot light/security button won't operate. I forgot that the other night!

    One last thing - is it really necessary to drain all petrol before removing a fuel pump or sender? Obviously battery disconnected and all fags put out!

    Well that's it for now - I'm back on the XJ. Fed up with Bessie!
    Current Vehicles: 2001 Jaguar S-type 4.0 V8 Pacific Blue, Ivory leather, Dynamic wheels
    1999 Jaguar XJ8 4.0 V8 Madeira pearl metallic, Oatmeal leather, Nice jag wheels
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    1956 Fordson major diesel, Sky Blue, perf. metal seat, orange 36" wheels

  5. #55
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    I'm sure you have previously swapped the fuel pump relay with a known good one, if not, try.
    It might also, at this point, be worth going through the car and finding out if anything else is not working. This may give us a clue on the SCP network issue.
    Try all door locks, alarm functions (inc interior sensor), windows, instruments, mirrors, seats, lights etc and lets see if there's anything else.
    2007 S type R, Radiance Red/ Champagne

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Mike View Post
    Power Train Control Module gave me a message: "System check not completed since last memory clear / on board diagnostic (OBD) system readiness test not complete / check of all OBD systems is incomplete since last memory clear.
    Quote Originally Posted by V8Mike View Post
    The PCM message I have no idea how to deal with.
    You can read up to understand what OBD monitors are on the net (applies to all petrol/diesel cars).

    Then the Jaguar meaning is that one or more has not completed (all should, so something is amiss, but don't panic until you find which monitor(s) is/are unset).

    The issue could be due to a fuel pump problem, of course - read the monitors to see the status of each one.

  7. #57
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    CapriV8driver - Bessy was very upset when you said she was 20 years old.
    Some would take that as a compliment.

    The fuel pumps/senders are getting voltage, even when the ignition is off and the key removed, could this be because the pcm is calling for fuel and the pumps are not responding or is the relay or diode duff? Relay clicks, on and off ok when battery is connected/disconnected even when ignition is off.
    Yes the fuel pump relay is one of the 4 relays that stay active 45 minutes after shutdown till the car goes to sleep. Your getting 12 volts to the pumps as you stated earlier and the pumps don't work as you give them a the 12v feed and earth so its clearly the pump(s) that have failed.

    One last thing - is it really necessary to drain all petrol before removing a fuel pump or sender? Obviously battery disconnected and all fags put out!
    You don't need to drain the tanks as the fuel pump cover sits on top of the tank.

    Maybe this vid helps:



    Fed up with Bessie!
    Ohh dear there you have done it. Your sleeping on the couch to night.
    '71 Ford Capri 7.0l V8 Dart block with EFI and a modified Dodge Viper 6 speed.
    '69 Ford P7 20M Hardtop coupe with the running gear and with all electronics and aircon/heater of a '01 3.0 v6 Jaguar S type.
    '01 Ford Fiesta with a almighty 1.3 engine.

  8. #58
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    Before i forget, no smoking and disconnect the battery when replacing the pump.
    '71 Ford Capri 7.0l V8 Dart block with EFI and a modified Dodge Viper 6 speed.
    '69 Ford P7 20M Hardtop coupe with the running gear and with all electronics and aircon/heater of a '01 3.0 v6 Jaguar S type.
    '01 Ford Fiesta with a almighty 1.3 engine.

  9. #59
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    Any updates on this problem?

    Or did Bessie kicked you out after your last remark?
    '71 Ford Capri 7.0l V8 Dart block with EFI and a modified Dodge Viper 6 speed.
    '69 Ford P7 20M Hardtop coupe with the running gear and with all electronics and aircon/heater of a '01 3.0 v6 Jaguar S type.
    '01 Ford Fiesta with a almighty 1.3 engine.

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