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Thread: auxiliary belt tensioner

  1. #1
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    auxiliary belt tensioner

    Hi
    Can any one help or advice me. I have a rattle on the left side of the engine looking from the front, as much as I can investigate it I think it is the auxiliary belt tensioner. How hard a job or is it a job for the experts. Any advice appreciated thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    Re: auxiliary belt tensioner

    Have a look at this.
    How to check it (about half way down)
    viewtopic.php?f=14&t=39614

    What needs replacing.
    As the tensioner and/or crank pulley are causing this rattle, it's worth changing both. As it's a Transit engine, see these

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BRAND-NEW-TEN ... 2c4d606580
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-TRANSIT- ... 3f0b4116c9
    I'm sure either would be able to supply a belt as well.

    Or
    http://www.britishparts.co.uk/.sc/ms/bd ... ONER%20KIT

    How to Replace
    Depending on your skills with the spanners, but this may help you decided.

    Removal
    Jack up the Off side front wheel, Axle stand under and remove wheel. Remove the engine cover on top of engine.
    Remove the Inner Plastic wheel arch trim, Don't worry about the screws, clips, you can cable tie them back after.
    Cut the old belt off (no turning back now!)

    Put car in gear and get someone to hold the foot brake down. Crack the three bolts holding the crank pulley to the crank and remove.
    Working above, feel for the top alternator bolts, these run back towards you into the block.
    Under the arch, feel for the lower ones, unbolt and push the alternator back and away from you.


    Now, under the alternator mount is another bracket with the tensioner attached, see pic 8 and 9 here
    http://www.fordmondeo.org/forum/printpo ... id/816315/
    the bottom just slides off, the top is bolted to the block, remove this and the tensioner and bracket is free.

    Take a chill Pill, the tensioner and bracket will come out through the wheel arch in one piece, just, note how it comes out for later!!! (hardest part)

    Now, swap the new tensioner for the old one on the bracket, put the bottom bracket on too. Pic 10.

    Rebuild
    Another Pill and a brew, deep breaths and yes, it will go back up there, again, just, like it came out. (hardest part)

    Align it up, but first you need to slip the new belt under the tensioner from the bottom, as the body of the tensioner is on the outside it needs to go on now before you slip the bottom bracket on the studs.
    Like this
    http://s71.photobucket.com/albums/i136/ ... vebelt.jpg

    Bolt up the bracket and swing the alternator back on and bolt up.

    Run the belt around all the pulleys as it should, all except the crank pulley (which you haven't fitted yet!)

    There's no room to detension the tensioner the normal way with a ratchet or socket bar.

    Here's the trick.
    Put one bolt through the crank pulley and on to the crank, do it up finger tight. As it's off centre you can skew it round and hook the belt on.
    This should leave you with the belt on all the pulleys and the crank pulley with one bolt in it off centre (the other two holes not lining up)

    Now pull the crank pulley around to line up the other holes, (it's hard as you're pulling against the tensioner) it may need a screwdriver in one of the other holes when it gets near to pull it up and slot another bolt in, with two in the other will go straight in. (I'd use a bit of thread lock on these bolts)

    You should now have everything on as it should be, bolt up everything tight (in gear, brake on).

    Knock it out of gear and run it to check everthing is ok, before you put the inner arch trim, wheel back on and feel smug/knackered.

    This will make more sense when you're under there with the spanners.
    The hardest part I found was getting the tensioner and bracket out of the hole and back in again, but trust me, it will come out and go back with it in one piece, just take your time!

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  4. #3
    westville
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    Re: auxiliary belt tensioner

    Goudy

    Another cracking response - I never cease to be amazed by the detail and knowledge you get into these posts
    Have a cigar
    Jim

  5. #4
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    Re: auxiliary belt tensioner

    Just a shame I never took photos when I replaced mine!
    I always remember after I've finished

    It's one of them jobs that if access was better, you wouldn't hesitate about DIYing.
    With it being up the back/tight against the side makes you look at it and groan, but it's not as bad as it could be.
    Basic socket set, a long handle socket driver to crack the crank pulley bolts, I think a long and short extension bar is useful and a torch was about it.

    The Mondeo guide that I linked to is a good one,
    but there's no need to lower the engine,
    the kit's different, with extra idlers that replacement is questionable,
    and the little home made de tensioning tool I found a waste, I made something similar to fit and swing on with a spanner, but I found I couldn't swing on it far enough to get the belt on, so messed about with the crank pulley until I got it on and pulled it all up tight.

  6. #5
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    Re: auxiliary belt tensioner

    THANKS
    FOR THE QUICK RESPONSE, I THINK THIS IS A JOB FOR THE EXPERTS. APPRECIATE THE INFORMATION
    LET YOU KNOW THE OUTCOME WHEN SORTED

  7. #6
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    Re: auxiliary belt tensioner

    Hi All
    Having just completed this pig of a job, I am under the impression the fault is simply the belt has reached its maximum stretch. Of course, as the garage is spending your money "you might as well change the tensioner and pulley" whilst the belt is off.

    Now the belt I got cost £15.65 and, following others, I got all the parts from transit parts (thanks for the tip). But some of you are being quoted several hundred pounds for the job when, if you were only having to replace the belt, it may come in at less than £100

    If you look at the mondeo guide. (Picture number ten)It shows the picture of the old tensioner removed and the new one fitted to the bracket. If you look at the old one you can see it has a "sticking up bit" by the upper left of the bolt hole, this fits into a space in the bracket. It allows maybe 10 or 15mm of movement. Once your belt has reached maximum stretch this "sticking up bit" will rest against the bracket causing the horrible noise.

    I have drawn this conclusion because when I undid the bottom bolt on the old tensioner it just came out (because it was not under tension as the belt was at max stretch)

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