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Thread: Strut removal guide

  1. #1
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    Strut removal guide

    My strut bearing has been giving me a little trouble, creaking and jumping in slow turns, so it was time to replace it.
    You could use this guide to replace the bearing, spring or shock.

    This may not be the way the JTIS says it's done, but it works.
    I'm sure this will help someone, somewhere, even if it's to confirm it's a job out of your comfort zone.

    You can do this job with a jack and axle stands.
    Decent socket set (13mm, 15mm, 16mm) with a few extension bars.
    Open ended Spanner (16mm or 17mm).
    Ring Spanner (18mm or 19mm)
    Allen keys
    Spring compressors.
    A few blocks of wood come in handy.

    First, jack up, you'll need to get the car up fairly high, I used a trolley jack with a block of wood for extra height, then axle stand, remove wheel.
    Make sure the car is safe before working under it, remember it's your health and your safety

    ....................

    Remove the anti roll bar tie from strut, hold the back of the shaft while undoing the nut.
    (when refitting tighten to 48NM)
    Unplug the anti lock brake sensor from top of hub,
    Unclip the brake hose from strut.

    .........................

    Remove the strut pinch bolt from back of hub (when refitting tighten to 85NM)
    The JTIS states the use of a special tool to open up the gap in the back of this joint (a bent bar), you may need to improvise with a large flat bladed screw driver to open it up if you find the strut bottom is jammed later.

    ...........................

    Now to get enough room to lower the hub and wishbone, you'll need to lower that side of the subframe, remove rear plate and bolt.



    Update: This subframe bolt (to the rear of the front subframe) has been known to cause problems. On more than one occasion the captive nut this bolt screws into has broken it's weld and span freely. This obviously makes removing it or re tightening it impossible.
    How to sort it here (Many thanks stu2.5v6sportawd) http://www.jaguarforum.co.uk/f26/sus...are-44846.html
    ...........................

    You can just get at the front subframe bolt like this

    (When refitting, tighten the larger front and rear subframe bolts to 142NM and the smaller rear plate bolts to 35Nm)
    .........................

    Start wriggling the hub back and forth, you may need a block of wood to tap it down if it's been in there for a while, or as stated above, open up the gap in the joint a little.

    ......................

    It's a tight fit, I used the jack handle and a block of wood to gently (don't force it) pry the subframe down a little until the strut popped out, but you could loosen the other side of the subframe as well to help it get a little lower.

    Support hub on another axle stand.
    ............................

    Bottom of the strut clear, now undo the top nuts (don't forget to hold the strut while you undo these)

    (When refitting tighten these to 25Nm)
    ..........................

    The strut should now pull clear.
    Use a good set of spring clamps (unlike mine) to clamp the spring up until the pressure is off the top mount.

    ..............................

    Once the spring is compressed and you are sure the spring's tension is held by the clamps, Only then undo the top mount like this, hold the rod with a Allen Key in the end and turn the nut with a ring spanner (less chance of chewing the Allen key hole)

    (when refitting tighten this to 25Nm)
    ....................

    Once the top mount is off you can remove the mount, bearing and spring from the damper.

    Refit in reverse, you''ll have to giggle the hub around until the damper bottom lines up and starts in the hole straight.
    Torque settings are in brackets.
    Last edited by Goudy; 18-08-12 at 19:30.

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  3. #2
    westville
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    Re: Strut removal guide

    Nice one Goudy - another very useful How To
    Jim

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  5. #3
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    when you say lower the sub frame goudy, how do you do it? just loosen the bolt and it falls down or do you have to pull it down? and how do you know its back in the right place when you raise the sub frame back up, does it just go as far up as you can push it then tighten the bolt again? and how hard is it to get the damper bottom back in the hole?

  6. #4
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    Only undo one side at once of the subframe, it's springy, so you have to lever it down a few inches with a block of wood to get the damper bottom out of the hub.

    As it's still bolted up the other side, it goes back up on it's own and bolts up no problem.

  7. #5
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    Thanks Goudy! You make a seemingly hard job looks easy.. Actually, a friend is searching for strut bar as he needs to replace them. I've been browsing thru some forums but there's not much about them. I come across one that says that you can make your own strut bar and it's not even that hard. Is this true? Does anyone tried making one? Thanks.
    Last edited by jkohler; 22-03-13 at 08:31.

  8. #6
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    Strut Bar?
    Do you mean a strut brace like this
    Strutbrace.co.uk - The No. 1 choice for strut braces

  9. #7
    Senior Member Timjag's Avatar
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    Just had to do the same job, didn't know about the lowering of the subframe so had a problem of getting the
    old shockers out, I used an angle grinder and cut the strut at the bottom near the knuckle. Had to protect
    all bodywork of course.

  10. #8
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    Good Post Goudy
    Sometimes I wonder... "Why that Frisbee is getting bigger" ....and then it hits me!

  11. #9
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    Goudy, a quick question. I have used your excellent write up today to change my front struts but I have one question for you. Once you had it all put back together did you get the wheel alignment checked? I'm going to look at mine in the morning but it would be worth knowing the stripping down and re-assembly changed the toe.
    Thanks in advance.
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  12. #10
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    Before loosening the subframe bolts, clean the rubber mounting bush and the adjacent chassis then spray a bit of white primer over the bush and chassis. When you come to tighten up the subframe bolts it will be obvious if the subframe has moved at all, if it has, just move it over with a lever so the bush fits its 'shadow' exactly and tighten the bolt.

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