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Thread: Air con not cold.

  1. #31
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    My problem is similar, nice aircon when moving, almost none when crawling in traffic. Not much fun in the 30C plus here in Australia. First AC specialists said 'lazy compressor', which I didn't believe as it was new 10,000 kms ago. Next lot said comp was OK, but the TX valve was stuck. No problem then, replace TX valve with new, not too expensive after all. Well yes, but the whole dash has to come out ! You see, Jaguar put the TX valve down on the right-side engine bay bulkhead (RHD, don't know if LHD is the same), it's the rectangular alloy block into which the foil-covered aircon pipes terminate. Awkward enough, but the fixing screws for this part are inside the car, behind the heater/ac matrix. Great. So you get the system de-gassed, drive home, take off the steering wheel and remove the whole dash, then the heater/ac unit, swap valve (new green O-rings!), put it all back and take it back to have it re-gassed. I've had the new TXV for months now, still can't face doing it yet, just did the timing chains so I need a break from Jag DIY. BTW the AC specialists reckoned about $1200AUD to do the job, about £675, but I reckon it would end up higher, they don't get many Jags there I think.

    S-Type, 3.0, 2001 (x2)

  2. #32
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    Heater control valve ?, had same problem once on mine, had a re-gas no different took it to my local Jag indie who diagnosed it to be a blown electronic component in the circuit board, common problem, has the heater control valve replaced problem sorted, good luck Gos
    56 plate S type R

  3. #33
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    I don't see how it can be that valve since you get cold when moving.

    Working through http://jaguarclimatecontrol.com/ will probably help you see what is and isn't OK.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by MidLifeCrysis View Post
    My problem is similar, nice aircon when moving, almost none when crawling in traffic. Not much fun in the 30C plus here in Australia. First AC specialists said 'lazy compressor', which I didn't believe as it was new 10,000 kms ago. Next lot said comp was OK, but the TX valve was stuck. No problem then, replace TX valve with new, not too expensive after all. Well yes, but the whole dash has to come out ! You see, Jaguar put the TX valve down on the right-side engine bay bulkhead (RHD, don't know if LHD is the same), it's the rectangular alloy block into which the foil-covered aircon pipes terminate. Awkward enough, but the fixing screws for this part are inside the car, behind the heater/ac matrix. Great. So you get the system de-gassed, drive home, take off the steering wheel and remove the whole dash, then the heater/ac unit, swap valve (new green O-rings!), put it all back and take it back to have it re-gassed. I've had the new TXV for months now, still can't face doing it yet, just did the timing chains so I need a break from Jag DIY. BTW the AC specialists reckoned about $1200AUD to do the job, about £675, but I reckon it would end up higher, they don't get many Jags there I think.

    S-Type, 3.0, 2001 (x2)
    May be a stupid question here but does the car fan spin because there has to be a supply of fresh air over the cooler for it to function correctly. This may explain why it is not working when you are in traffic.

    The water temperature gauge will not show you that because it is more decoration as it will only move above its normal position when the car is seriously overheating.
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  5. #35
    Senior Member Jim_S-V6_2004's Avatar
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    Chaps if everything is working but there is only good or reasonable cooling when the engine is turning faster than idle, the system needs to be vacuumed out, dried with nitrogen, vacuumed out again and refilled with the correct weight of new refrigerant and some compressor oil and pressurised.

    This is done automatically by AC specialists' machines these days.

    I hope this helps you to avoid spending hours and lots of money without success.

    .
    Last edited by Jim_S-V6_2004; 12-01-19 at 20:49.

  6. #36
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    Vacuuming out does the drying Jim. Lowers the "boiling point" of any fluid in there and boils it off.

    If however the orifice unit is blocked, the system will not perform as well as it should. And they are usually pretty dirty.

    But a new dryer unit will do wonders for the system.
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  8. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by ducmon View Post
    May be a stupid question here but does the car fan spin because there has to be a supply of fresh air over the cooler for it to function correctly. This may explain why it is not working when you are in traffic.

    The water temperature gauge will not show you that because it is more decoration as it will only move above its normal position when the car is seriously overheating.
    Interesting, I'll check that out. Would be a lot preferable to taking the dash out. Thanks for the tip.

    Off topic, but DCCV (heater) valve - I did mine too. I stripped the old one out of curiosity, the two rotating paddle valves were buried inside what looked like thick rusty mud, totally immovable. The rest of the cooling system was fine, been fine ever since (2 years). I think the rust originated from the paddles' shafts, they looked like they are made from untreated steel (built-in obsolescence ?). Swapping the DCCV is not a fun job btw.

  9. #38
    Senior Member Jim_S-V6_2004's Avatar
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    Well it's not really off topic.

    So don't forget these cars are 10 to 19 years old now and owners don't think to flush out things like the coolant and refill, even though there are "recommendations" in the handbook to do that and other servicing.

    So sludge builds up.

    So flush yours out and put in fresh coolant at the right mix every couple of years. Or you might lose your radiator too. They corrode and bow at the bottom.

    .

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