Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 12345
Results 41 to 50 of 50

Thread: ABS traction stability warning lights come on then go away

  1. #41
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    10
    Post Thanks / Like
    I removed mine without disturbing the pipes. Took a little wiggling, and a slight bending of the pipes. Have to remove all of the 10MM bolts holding the assembly to the fender, and loosen and set aside the power steering reservoir and remove the Windshield Washer fluid filler.

  2. #42
    Junior Member oldjaglover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    northern california, usa
    Posts
    26
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by darbysan View Post
    I removed mine without disturbing the pipes. Took a little wiggling, and a slight bending of the pipes. Have to remove all of the 10MM bolts holding the assembly to the fender, and loosen and set aside the power steering reservoir and remove the Windshield Washer fluid filler.
    I can see the 10mm mounting bolts....looks like one hidden down under the engine side. That would be 3? The washer fluid filler has already been removed. The PS reservoir doesn't look in the way, but if the module needs to come forward it would be. What did you use on the tiny module circuit board mounting screws? an E socket or a 5/32??

  3. #43
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    10
    Post Thanks / Like
    I used a 5/32 for the module screws. You have to rotate the pump away from the fender, to get enough clearance between the pipes to remove the module. That is why the PS reservoir needed to be unbolted.

  4. #44
    Junior Member oldjaglover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    northern california, usa
    Posts
    26
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by darbysan View Post
    I used a 5/32 for the module screws. You have to rotate the pump away from the fender, to get enough clearance between the pipes to remove the module. That is why the PS reservoir needed to be unbolted.
    OK. I can see the issue with removal space. I tried a 5/32 socket and it worked fine, so FYI to all the others who will do this, YOU DO NOT HAVE TO RUSH OUT AND BUY A SET OF "E" SOCKETS FOR THIS JOB. YAY! And, the first one wasn't really that tight, so they might come out with a 1/8" thumb drive, or a 3/8" thumb drive with a reducer to the socket.

    Oh....and that other question: IF the pipes are loosened as some have suggested, will they leak brake fluid out....or are they dead-ended at the sensors????

  5. #45
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Boston Lincolnshire uk
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hi guys gals,
    See nobody has mentioned the clicking sound when applying the brake pedal, It is supposed to do that as it is the gearshift interlock solenoid releasing allowing you to select out of park.
    rrosscoe

  6. #46
    Junior Member oldjaglover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    northern california, usa
    Posts
    26
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by rrosscoe View Post
    Hi guys gals,
    See nobody has mentioned the clicking sound when applying the brake pedal, It is supposed to do that as it is the gearshift interlock solenoid releasing allowing you to select out of park.
    rrosscoe
    You are correct. Thank you.

  7. #47
    Junior Member oldjaglover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    northern california, usa
    Posts
    26
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by oldjaglover View Post
    OK. I can see the issue with removal space. I tried a 5/32 socket and it worked fine, so FYI to all the others who will do this, YOU DO NOT HAVE TO RUSH OUT AND BUY A SET OF "E" SOCKETS FOR THIS JOB. YAY! And, the first one wasn't really that tight, so they might come out with a 1/8" thumb drive, or a 3/8" thumb drive with a reducer to the socket.

    Oh....and that other question: IF the pipes are loosened as some have suggested, will they leak brake fluid out....or are they dead-ended at the sensors????
    A status update here: Just as I was getting to removing the ABS module, I found that I didn't need it to drive the car and reset the 02 and CAT sensors that interfered with my emissions test. So, I put the screws back in a prepared to drive up the freeway a hundred miles to a friend's house in Truckee. NOT QUITE! My driver side hood latch will NOT hook in. I've tried lubricating the locking mechanism and using a screwdriver to make the latch function. It works easily when I do that. The hood release is working fine as far as I can tell. But when I try to latch the hood it won't allow the hood loop to activate the latch mechanism. It just bounces back up. P.side works fine. Normally, a 5-6" drop is fine. Even trying to push down right where the latch meets won't work. I think that used to do it easily. The hood bends easily so I'm not gonna push too hard. SO, WTH IS WRONG, AND HOW DO I FIX IT?????????? I'm gonna set this as another new thread.

  8. #48
    Junior Member oldjaglover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    northern california, usa
    Posts
    26
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by oldjaglover View Post
    A status update here: Just as I was getting to removing the ABS module, I found that I didn't need it to drive the car and reset the 02 and CAT sensors that interfered with my emissions test. So, I put the screws back in a prepared to drive up the freeway a hundred miles to a friend's house in Truckee. NOT QUITE! My driver side hood latch will NOT hook in. I've tried lubricating the locking mechanism and using a screwdriver to make the latch function. It works easily when I do that. The hood release is working fine as far as I can tell. But when I try to latch the hood it won't allow the hood loop to activate the latch mechanism. It just bounces back up. P.side works fine. Normally, a 5-6" drop is fine. Even trying to push down right where the latch meets won't work. I think that used to do it easily. The hood bends easily so I'm not gonna push too hard. SO, WTH IS WRONG, AND HOW DO I FIX IT?????????? I'm gonna set this as another new thread.
    i DON'T KNOW WHY i CANNOT EDIT THIS MESSAGE, BUT i SOLVED THE PROBLEM.

  9. #49
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Boston Lincolnshire uk
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like

    Do not give up!

    Quote Originally Posted by oldjaglover View Post
    i DON'T KNOW WHY i CANNOT EDIT THIS MESSAGE, BUT i SOLVED THE PROBLEM.
    Glad you got the roof fixed, like the old saying "if at first etc etc"
    rrosscoe

  10. #50
    Junior Member oldjaglover's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    northern california, usa
    Posts
    26
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by rrosscoe View Post
    Glad you got the roof fixed, like the old saying "if at first etc etc"
    rrosscoe
    I had looked at every touch point I could see, and they were all clean. I just happened to notice that a 12" strip had slid backward and up off its pinch seam. That 1-2" of rubber sitting only about 1/2" above the normal correct position stopped my hood from latching. Incredible! Thanks, anyway. This is a lesson for the STICKY! Thanks to another member who mentioned it in the other thread.

Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 12345

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •