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Tried to change over pulley and tensioner on my 2.0 diesel last week but couldn't get the tensioner block with its spring removed to change it over.

It has an allen key bolt and even when cutting off a section at end of the allen key. Like there is not enough space between the side bulkhead of the wing and the head of the screw to unbolt it.

Maybe I am undoing the wrong part or doing something wrong but cant see how to remove it. Ended up just changing the pulley. Seems to have helped but still getting loud rattle and wonder if it is
the tensioner itself.

Need to change over to eliminate my rattle as think it could also be the DMF playing up. Rattle goes away at high revs but comes back at low idle or when I lift of throttle like coming down hill and engine is quite and smooth.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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turn the aircon on and off.

if the sound changes then it'll be tensioner, if it doesnt its most likely DMF, thats how i diagnosed mine.

i haven't removed the tensioner, but it is something i need to do on my missus 2.0, i'll see what the haynes manual says when i get back in from work and let you know.
 

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Hi there, i believe you have to remove the alternator to get access to be able to remove the tensioner, pretty sure i had to when i changed pulley and belt on my car . Check the how to do section about changing the belt and crankshaft pulley and you will see how to get it done cheers Barry.
 

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Hi

You need to remove the tensioner from the car which means you also have to slide the alternator of its mounts. You don't need to jack the engine up or remove the engine support from that side as mentioned in the guide. If you do a search on the forum someone has done a good walk through of this. It does help if you obtain the correct tool (lazer do one for about £20) to de tension the spring on the tensioner. If you have inclination, funds etc and if you have not yet upgraded the pulley it may be a good time to buy the uprated pulley kit, or depending on the age/mileage at least put on a new belt and tensioner.
 

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I think you are doing it wrong. Also I'm not sure which pulley you changed. Was it the crankshaft pulley?

You do not need to unscrew the allen head bolt - there will not be enough clearance to remove it anyway. You will need to remove the alternator which is attached to the block with a spacer type bracket to which the bottom end of the tensioner spring is attached. Make sure you know EXACTLY which way round this spacer/bracket is fitted, if you reassemble the wrong way round then you will not have sufficient movement to get the belt back. It is best to mark this bracket before removing it. The tension is released using a special tool http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LASER-TOO...d=262718944635&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 This tool has two steel pegs on one end which will go between the webs of the tensioner casting and allow you to rotate the tensioner to slacken the belt. The pegs are very short and it helps to chock it in position with a bit of wood so that it will not ride out when you try to rotate. The Haynes manual suggests using a home made tool by welding a 20mm long piece of 1/2" bar to a length of flat bar and then inserting this into the square hole on the tensioner casting. I think it will need to be considerably less than 20mm because room is very restricted and Haynes do not specify the angle of the 1/2" bar relative to the length of flat bar. You would have to sort that out for yourself by trial and error.

You may have an earlier crankshaft pulley fitted and I would advise fitting an upgraded one of the vibration dampening type. This will make for much smoother engine operation at lower engine speeds. The upgrade kit should come with a different wheel arch liner to allow for the extra thickness of the pulley.
 
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