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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
One of mine sounds like a cement mixer...

Looked at JTIS, seems fairly straight forward, but do I need the caliper wind in tools when I take the disks off??

Anyoe done this job?
 

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I think you should be able to remove the pads, caliper and disc ok.

Refitting it all back together should be fine too as you're not likely to have to open the caliper to refit the original pads, only if you fit new pads would they need to wind back, though it may be tight over the rim of the disc as they are usually a little wider (they don't wear there) and rusty.

They can be wound back without the tool anyway, I use a 4" G clamp to apply a little pressure then turn the piston head with some grips.
(they way the wheel turns when driving forward, that's the way to remember which piston goes which way)

If they have to go back, you're talking a few mm to clear the rim of the disc and a pry with a bar in there will give you that without turning the piston.


The rest of the job seems straight forward enough, I've not done it myself as I'm FWD, but I've had my front hubs off a few times.

To crack the drive nut, pop the centre cap out the wheel, refiit it and drop it back down off the jack, a long breaker bar should get it moving, if it's tight slip a pipe over the breaker bar to extend it for more leverage. I think it's recommended to replace this nut as it's designed to grip the shaft and isn't meant to be reused.

Then get your brake caliper/disc out the way, don't need to undo the pipe from the caliper, but support it out the way, don't just let it hang there!

The nuts holding the hub to the carrier may be a little rusted up, try to soak them a day or two before.

No doubt the hub will stick to the shaft splines, if it's hammer time, protect the thread on the shaft, either screw the nut back on flush or use a hide or copper mallet, though a puller would be handy.

I suppose it's worth mentioning the ABS wire, that you don't catch it or stretch it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Goudy. I've actually ordered a kit for both winders in - Apparently Jag have different threads on each side - on left hand, one right hand! As both my wife and I have X-Types, I figured it would pay for itself in time!

Ordered new disks and pads too, pick all these up tomorrow.

Picked the hub assembly up today from Fox's at Preston (used to be Minster?) £130 ish which I didn't think was bad for a stealer!

If I can find time while I'm doing it, I'll take some photos...
 

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You might want to think about doing the other side too, if one side has gone, the other won't be too far behind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You might want to think about doing the other side too, if one side has gone, the other won't be too far behind.
Doesn't sound or feel bad at all. The other side fell apart when I took it off! (see below)

OK, here's one I prepared earlier...



Remove the growler and use a 32mm socket to undo the drive nut.



You can see by the state of this, I was replacing the disks at the same time!



Remove the caliper - if you can get a spanner on it you don't need to remove the ABS sensor

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I *SOAKED* the 4 torx bolts that hold it on with WD40, but only 1 came out cleanly!



Line up the bolt with the holes in the hub and use a proper socket... you *may* even need an impact driver! Mine were so bad we ended up grinding one coner of the hub off to get it off the bolt, and *then* removed the bolt. These are barstewards - be warned!

My old hub actually fell apart as we were trying to get the bolts out.



Once it's off, as they say, refitting is the reverse procedure. :)



Jag dealer didn't have the torx bolts in stock, so I went and got the Ford ones. M10x30. These have been modified and the torx head as you can see is different - probably better!

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)


Job almost complete...

I bought a new drive nut from Ford as well - different design, but it's the same thing



My old one got bent when I tried to bash the drive shaft out of the hub!



To avoid this, make sure you use a proper puller - mine (which I bought after I'd bent the nut!) cost less that £20, and the winding kit for the brake calipers was about £45
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Only problem I have now is there's a slight knocking at certain speeds and I'm wondering if I damaged a CV joint on the drive shaft when I tried to bash it out to take the hub off. Oddly enough, with a boot full of Ikea furniture yesterday (read: heavily laden!) the knocking disapeared!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
One word of advice...

Make sure, when you put the caliper back, that the flexi hose doesn't rub on the back edge of the wheel. This, when it catches on the balancing weights, can give a knocking noise that sounds like a drive shaft CV joint failing.

It can also have the effect, after about 200 miles, or wearing through the pipe, meaning that after you've been sailing down the M6 and brake to pull off at a junction, nothing happens when you put your foot on the pedal (treadle!) until you press it repeatedly whilst rolling down the hard shoulder spewing brake fluid waiting for the car to gradualy grind to a halt...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
... and the annoying part of all this is it's a main dealer only part...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've just rung every motor factor in the area and NOBODY even lists the rear hoses. Ordered one from main dealer to collect tomorrow... :(
 
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