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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I have just picked up my first S-type she Is a 2005 2.7d with 81,000 on the clock.

I was hoping for some opinions on engine temp. On the way to work this morning (first day with the car) the car took a while 10mins to get to the small mark below half and then it sat there, which seams ok but then on the way home the needle went to halfish where it the moves from just below half to what looks like half from sitting straight on in the drivers seat but what is actually just above half if you put your head directly in front of the temp gage to the left of the dash. Is this normal or should it be bang on the line?

I wouldn’t have asked except that when I parked her up and walked past the front she smelled hot if I sniffed near the grill, I started her back up and sit still with the engine running for a about 15 mins, the guage read again what looks like centre from the drivers seat but is actually a touch above true centre. I checked the coolant which looks orange in colour and was topped to the brim, I can’t see a min and max level anywhere on the expansion tank. She doesn’t appear to smoke and pulls like an absolute train.

Sorry if these are silly questions but I bought private and am hoping I got it right.

Thanks in advance

James
 

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Hi Fairlo, welcome to.our forums.

Forget the gauge.

They are damped to middle deliberately so women drivers don't panic!

But they won't show overheating.

So run the engine on your drive and be sure your cooling fan starts and stops automatically.

Go to our S Type Stickies subforum and run the Engineering Test Mode to see actual coolant temps.

Here's the link to the Stickies: www.jaguarforum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=104

See what else is there and download the Workshop Manual.

Take off the coolant filler cap and look inside the expansion tank when it's cold, there are 2 plastic level steps inside. I covered the upper one by about 1cm.

Check your sills (you need to remove the covers) and subframe mounts for rust and gaiters for splitting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Jim,

Thanks for the reply.

When i left her idling for 15 mins i opened the bonnet and i could not hear any fans kick in (unless they are super quiet), but then the gauge didn't get any higher and it was on an evening so couldn't have been more than about 11 degrees c, so perhaps it wasn't hot enough for them to kick in?

I will drive home tonight with the test mode on the dash, what sort of coolant temps should i be seeing?

Thanks again, i have wanted an S-type for ages and i love this car, i really hope she's a good one :)
 

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Hi welcome to the crazy world of the s type.

Just one point I would like to make there is no such thing as
paranoia.:-D
 

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Most thermostats don't open until 93°C.

And if it's cold outside the engine coolant may not heat enough to start the fan.

Usually on many cars putting the AC on starts the fan. But I can't remember if my S did that?

On the S Types it's best to keep the AC (Climate Control) on Auto all year round, and just adjust the temp. In winter it keeps the air in the cabin dry and prevents mould and damp.

.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the reply’s , I drove home from work with the engineer mode on displaying the temp it sat at 79 degrees during the motorway drive back steady 70mph and when back home after idelling for a while hit 88 degrees so no overheating and if anything she seams a touch cold lol

I did notice a lot of DLC codes 3 pages of them stored (hope that’s right) are these fault codes? I have no warning lights and she drives ok, could these be old ones, I have a code reader was thinking bout clearing them and seeing what if any come back?

Thanks is again
 

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Personally I would clear all codes and wait for new ones.

Ok I have a worry.

Your coolant should have heated up and opened the thermostat in around 20 minutes to let coolant go round the rad.

This means yours didn't.

It's possible your thermostat is stuck open, letting coolant circulate through the rad too soon so it doesn't get to temp and your engine is running cooler than optimum.

It's also possible someone took out the thermostat.

So I would check or replace the thermostat asap.

.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
With the AC on i can see the cooling fans spinning so thats a good thing.

I plugged in my code reader and the car goes kinda mental the dash board dials go strange warning lights and messages flash up ie 'engine system fault' 'dcs not available' ' ABS fault' 'gearbox fault' 'restricted performance', i had a quick look and my reader I could only see two pending faults (i think) and that the EML was not on, but tbh the dashboard christmas lights freaked me out so i turned off the reader and turned off the ignition. Fired her back up and all is fine. Couple more turn offs and back on show no warnings at all, she was the same as before i plugged in the reader. So either a) the Jag hates my code reader and it freaks out or b) the car cant talk to the systems as the reader is, which triggers the warnings, so when its not connected all is ok again, and its fine to use to read the codes?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
 

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Relax, don't panic. The S type diesel is notorious for being slow to warm up (especially now that there is a chill in the air) In summer months it's normal for my car to go 10/15 miles before the indicator gets anywhere near where it should be. If you are really concerned..........buy a new (£20 ish) ambient temperature sensor. It lives behind the front number plate, there is room to get your hand in and it's a simple DIY job.

P.S. when the outside temp. gets down to about 5 degrees c the little Webasto aux.heater should fire up automatically.........much smoke (a lot) from under the front N/S. The car is not about to burst into flames
Relax it's normal, they all do it but it does help big style in warming everything up
 

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Your battery must be low.

And Yes! Diesels take twice as long or more to warm up. My Merc E320 took 5-6 miles, or about 10-12 minutes!

It's a Hairy Man thing, is Diesel! ;)

Many code readers draw quite a bit of current from the battery as they enable Comms paths and electronic module readout routines in software.

The voltage at the battery terminals with the engine off from cold should be at least 12.6 volts, 12.2 volts at the cigar lighter.

If you've run the engine, you need to switch off, turn on the headlights for 3 minutes (to remove what's called the "Surface" charge) and then measure. A fully charged calcium battery will give you at least 12.7 volts.

So if yours reads less, it needs charging.

12.0 volts is technically Dead.

See my other posts about 2.5-litre and 3.0-litre S Types being unable to fully charge Calcium content and AGM batteries.

You need a house charger or C-TEK MXS 5 or similar smart charger for these.

So don't panic, start with your battery.

It's Winter don't forget! ;)
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Hi

That’s great I’ll check the voltages this weekend.

One more thing for now lol. when she is cold just sitting idleing the engine seams to make the car rock a touch and feels a bit chasey. Soon as temp guage is off the blue coldd marker she is fine and smooth on idle, is this a trate of the car?

Thanks
 

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As Jim said start with the battery. My code readers did not want to work after a recovery firm damaged the battery, once I replaced the battery I was able to check the car.

I was unable to connect the car even when the engine was running so dont worry.

Do you have a dfp fitted to your car?
 

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Hi

That's great I'll check the voltages this weekend.

One more thing for now lol. when she is cold just sitting idleing the engine seams to make the car rock a touch and feels a bit chasey. Soon as temp guage is off the blue coldd marker she is fine and smooth on idle, is this a trate of the car?

Thanks
.
That indicates a poor injector spray pattern Fairlo. RedEx fuel injector cleaner at double strength for 2 tankfuls normally fixes that.

Our fellow member Bluechem might have a good product too?

It could also be a slight air intake leak which closes when warm.

And dirty MAF sensors / MAP sensor is possible. Some S Type models have both, but I can't remember which.

.
 

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Hi

That's great I'll check the voltages this weekend.

One more thing for now lol. when she is cold just sitting idleing the engine seams to make the car rock a touch and feels a bit chasey. Soon as temp guage is off the blue coldd marker she is fine and smooth on idle, is this a trate of the car?

Thanks
In other words a rough tickover when cold ?? Welcome to the club, nobody has ever fully solved the problem, 99.9% of em do it, always 'no faults' on the diagnostic machine, it's a mystery because a few revs. on and they are as smooth as silk. The silence from Jaguar about the problem is deafening, it seems as if they don't know why.
 

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Welcome to the world of diesel S Types Fairlo!

Just a few points:

1. You mention the car smelling hot. Sometimes when you switch off the car smells like its on fire. This I understand is when the diesel particulate filter (DPF) is in the middle of a burn cycle and you interrupt it. The whole thing then just sits there red hot under the car. Don't worry, it sorts itself out next time you reach a steady cruising speed and repeats its burn cycle. I've never had a problem with this but I did read somewhere that if you have 3 consecutive interrupted burn cycles (ie: with no fully completed burn cycle between) then you need a main dealer reset of the system. Oh - and try not to park on dry grass in the summer!

2. As other posters have said, the 2.7 diesel takes forever to reach normal running temperature especially in the winter so don't worry.

3. If this is your first winter, don't be alarmed if the car belches diesel smoke out from the front N/S wheelarch when you first start on a sub 5degC day. This is the auxilliary fired heater kicking in. Other drivers might point at you and look concerned but you quickly learn to develop a casual smile and cheery wave!
 
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