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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had a recurrence of the steering locked message, last time it was cured by manipulating the key in flap and lubricating. No luck this time so I'm trying to remove tha switch assembly without much success.
Shroud cover is off as are lower cowls. Both switch panels to the right are out but I cannot see or feel what is holding the assembly in place, jtis unhelpfully warns not to apply too much force but fails to indicate where and in which direction.
Has anyone managed this?
Many thanks, Mike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
A little progress, removing the right hand facia end panel gives better vision and access, you can just about see the tang on top of the assembley that needs to be pressed downwards with a good sized screwdriver, switch then pushes back into the facia.
Unfortunately the key no longer turns in the barrel.
More work.
Mike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Key now turns and operates switch, both key in plunger and ignition functions. Compressed air released a very small piece of what looks like spring wire.
Steering lock still does not operate, shorting pins 4 and 5 at the swich cause the seat and wheel to move. Back to where I was about a month ago exept forhair loss.
Mike.
 

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The steering wheel lock is located in the steering column and is triggered by the REM and GEM modules not by the ignition lock itself.
 

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I am in the process of sorting out same matter on xj8 350.
There has been discussions about this before on the forum xj350.
It would appear thst there are a few opinions to the cause.
1. Gunk in ignition barrel to be cleaned with electrical spray.
2. Faulty solenoid in wheel lock
3. Inertia switch in foot well.

My car is still under investigation.....
 

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Rectangle Font Line Slope Parallel


Maybe this helps.
 

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Hi
Had to do one of these a while ago for a friend
they were getting fault codes relating to scp network and hand brake, ending up been ignition barrel, because it had that much play in it, key could be move 5mm approx in and out.
anyway he did not want to spend a lot and cheapest option was to swap the complete ignition lock and key, swap in the existing remote part and remove the old transponder out of the old key and fit into new one.
job done, he kept the metal part of the fob, key and chrome bit on his keys, so he can open the door and boot if battery goes flat
cured all his scp faults and parking brak faults he was getting
cheers
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you all for your interest, the lock motor has a tortuous feed from both ends of the car, I had checked both for continuity last time this happened.
The key in line from the switch sends +12 to the instrument panel, I have bypassed the contact to no avail.
I know the switch barrel has a problem as a small spring came out when I blew it clear, there is also quite a lot of slop in the key so I have ordered a replacement assembly.
We will see what happens next.
Mike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update, steering lock replacement had no effect, a borrowed Autel shows U1752, missing steering lock status at front electronic module. No DTC in module.
Head scratching continues, need to find a way to test lock motor.
Mike.
 

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1 thing you can try.

Open the drivers side window and close all doors. Disconnect the battery for 5 minutes. Reconnect the battery. With the key fob push the unlock button (doesn't matter if the doors are locked or not). insert the key in the ignition but don't turn the key, push the unlock button again and now turn the key and see if it unlocks the steering column.

If not. The fault states that there is a missing steering lock status at front electronic module. In that case you need to measure the continuity between Gem pin FH60-6 (black) and FC59-1 of the steering lock connector (black yellow)

Also test for continuity between the steering lock connector (FC59- 3 Blue and 4 Yellow) against the diagnostic connector pin 2 and 10
 

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Hi.
Im not sure if i can help but i have had a similar albeit not identical problem with my xj8 350 2005. It has just been solved.
My problem was that the ignition sometimes took up to 6 turns of the key to fire up. Sometimes it fired up first time and sometimes took up to 6 atempts. The steering wheel lock warning light came on even though the steering wheel was not locked...or so i thought...
Well after spraying and fusing and key cleaning to no real avail i gave up and was about to face the dreaded dealership but fortune had it that i blew a rear air strut and had to be towed to my indi for a fix.
He knew of the ignition problem but had previously said its better to go to jaguar as ignition , keys and locks are part of security of car and only they have the proper gear to reprogramme...
But now i was back he said...ill see if a car electrician expert i sometimes work with can sort it. He said it would appear that there is fault in the steering wheel lock.
Well as it happenned i had inherited a spare steering wheel lock from the previous owner. It was in the boot...

Gas Machine Nail Office equipment Metal


A few days later...
The spare part was useless as it was a right
hand drive car and did not recognize the key. Moreover we learned that it is impossible just to put a new steering wheel lock in (even the right one) without progamming your specific car and key and ignition to the chip in it.

The square box us the brain which needed cleaning and resoldering

Circuit component Green Black Passive circuit component Electronic engineering


some pathwsys needed resoldering
Green Circuit component Hardware programmer Electronic engineering Electronic component

Passive circuit component Circuit component Green Hardware programmer Electronic component


You need jaguar to do it with your vin. This can be an expensive procedure as you can well imagine.

BUT....if there is someone who knows how to fix your dud one (assuming your problem is a dud steering wheel lock chip and circuit board) then it does not need programming from anew by jaguar.
My lock needed a few circuits resoldered in the chip inside the steering wheel lock...and inside the lock is a mechanical switch which physically moves when the signal is given. If the current doesnt reach it it wont move and then the car wont start.

Switch in top left corner....

Gas Auto part Machine Bumper Metal


Simple...🤯

I would never have found all this out unless i blew a strut, had a wrong part and my indie knew a car electrician that has computer chip skills.
The moral of the story being
Never give up....even something bad can be a blessing in disguise...
I hope you sort it out and that i have been of some help.
 

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Thank you for that information, I have been thinking the lock actuator might be part of the problem. I just need the rain to stop so I can discover how to remove it.
Mike
In order to remove it you have to remove the entire steering column. Thats what my indie did. Its the metal bit inside the column.
Unless you really know what your doing maybe get an expert...

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Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Not much progress, part way through removing the column I am up against removing the brake pedal crash bracket. According to Mr Jaguar it just unclips after reomoving 4 nuts. Not on mine it does'nt.
I can't get it come off the stud on the left hand side, difficult access of course. Not enough free thread on the stud for 2 nuts or removing the stud might help.
The battle continues.
Mike.
 

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Maybe the final update, having battled through changing the lock actuator without any joy I am close to giving up. A good night's sleep may improve my outlook.
Mike..
Sorry to here that.
As i wrote above it might need reprogramming by dealership..
 
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