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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This guide is for an oil change on the TDV6 lump fitted to XJs.

Special tools needed:
An oil pump/extractor, with tubes that will fit Jag's oil tube
32mm Socket
Torque wrench capable of 27Nm

Locations:
Blue Arrow - Oil Filter
Green Arrow - Oil tube (shown with cap on)
Yellow Arrow - Oil Filler (shown with cap removed)
Red Arrows - Engine trim locating lugs
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(and underside of engine plastic trim, to show locating lugs)
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Firstly, warm up the engine by taking for a drive, then park on level ground.

Connect the "In/Inlet" tube to the oil tube (green arrow on locations image above), the oil tube cap is removed by undoing the cap quarter turn, then lifting off.
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Insert drain tube into your waste oil collection container - secure this, as when the pump is sucking a lot of air, and can make the tubes bounce about a bit.

Connect the pump according to the pump's instructions - mine is 12v, so I used a spare car battery, but could have run it from the jumpstart points in the engine bay.

Switch on, and after a few seconds, you should see it sucking the oil out...
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Lovely stuff...
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After a short period, you will hear or see the pump change, as its starts sucking air from the sump. This took about 6 minutes on me el-cheapo Lidl pump. I turned the pump off for a minute, and then back on, so get as much out as possible. Ideally, try to measure how much came out, as this will let you know that you have got as much out as possible, and how much to put back in.

When you have as much out as you can get turn off the pump and with a rag to hand to catch spills and drips, disconnect the pump's inlet tube from the oil tube on the engine. Put the oil tube cap back on, turning quarter of a turn to lock it in place.

Follow any instructions on the pump to clean it. Mine suggested running some fresh oil through it, but others may have different procedures.

Now onto the filter. Remove the engine plastic trim by undoing the oil filler cap, and lifting up, and unclipping from its locating lugs - use the pictures at top to see where the locating lugs are. Immediately replace the oil filler cap to prevent anything accidentally falling in there!

The filter can be identified in the top picture by the blue arrow. Place rags all around the filter as shown below, as when you lift it out, it will drip oil! If its a windy day, put some heavy items on the rags to stop them blowing away.

Using a 32mm socket, undo the filter exactly 6 full turns.
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Do NOT lift filter cap off, leave it there for 2 -3 mins to drain a bit. Then lift it clear, having more rags to had to catch any drips - as soon as you can, turn filter housing cap upside down.
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New filter should come with a large rubber o ring.
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Remove the old filter insert - its clipped into the cap, to will take a bit of force to pull it out. It just pulls out straight. Any oil collected in cap can be tipped out into a container for disposal.

Remove the old o ring.


Smear new O ring with fresh oil, and put on the cap.

Push the new filter into the cap. It clips in place, and might take a bit of force to clip it all the way in. It should sit flush.


Screw filter and cap back in place, tightening to 27Nm (20 lbft) using a torque wrench. Do not over tighten, else next time you come to do this job, you may shear the "nut" off the top of the filter housing cap!

Remove oil filler cap, and then replace the engine plastic trim.

Put in 6 - 6.5l of oil meeting the required spec (most UK suppliers where you enter registration suggest unsuitable oil. Get what your glovebox manual states - mine is Ford spec 934-b). Using oil that not low SAPS will not do your DPF any favours!!

Leave the car 10mins for the oil level to settle, then check oil level via the instrument panel (full instructions in your glovebox manual).

If the oil is not at minimum, put in another litre, wait another 10mins, and repeat if necessary.

When oil is showing above minimum, start the engine for about 2 mins, to fill the oil filter back up. If you get any oil warnings that do not disappear within 5s or so, stop engine immediately and investigate.

Stop the engine, leave for 10 mins, and check oil level again. Top up if necessary (aim for about 3/4s on the level gauge on the dash), waiting 10mins each time for the oil to fully drain down into the sump.

Relax with a nice brew, with the smug knowledge you've saved yourself a fortune :)
 

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Nice write up, well done.

Roger
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'll try to do a write up of a "proper" oil change (ie, drain through sump plug) when the weather is warmer. I did this as a quick and dirty oil change, as its don't 8k since last one (according to history), so needed to do quickly before I put another 1000 miles on it this week...
 

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I'll try to do a write up of a "proper" oil change (ie, drain through sump plug) when the weather is warmer. I did this as a quick and dirty oil change, as its don't 8k since last one (according to history), so needed to do quickly before I put another 1000 miles on it this week...
Brilliant write up thanks. I was planning to do my next service and this is perfect.One question where does one dispose of the waste oil?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Brilliant write up thanks. I was planning to do my next service and this is perfect.One question where does one dispose of the waste oil?
As dbug says, here in England, most local council tips take oil for recycling. My local one has a huge tank you just pour it into, I suspect others are similar.
 

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Yes our one does that too.

Roger
 

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I think I should have posted this in the stickies section instead, how do I prod a mod to move it?
I have found an issue with this write up , there is no mention of putting the oil filler cap back on :)

This can be a bit messy as I noticed earlier after obviously leaving mine off when I changed the oil a few weeks back .........

Thankfully not much come out of the top at all , maybe a cupful soaked in to the bonnet lining !
 

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Nice one Boy, I've asked for it to be moved to the stickies.

Keep them coming

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
To aid refilling, you can put the oil sensor in live mode, rather than the damped mode - though be aware that oil takes a while to pool down into the sump.

Go to the oil level screen as normal.
Press OK
Press Cruise Cancel twice in quick succession.
Go back to oil level screen, which should now be live (ie, adding 250ml should show in a few seconds)


For speed, I use this to fill to Max. Start car to circulate oil for about 30s, stop engine. Now you need to wait 10m again to get back to oil level, then go to live mode again, and fill you your preferred level (some like 3/4, some like full - your choice)
 

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This guide is for an oil change on the TDV6 lump fitted to XJs.

Special tools needed:
An oil pump/extractor, with tubes that will fit Jag's oil tube
32mm Socket
Torque wrench capable of 27Nm

Locations:
Blue Arrow - Oil Filter
Green Arrow - Oil tube (shown with cap on)
Yellow Arrow - Oil Filler (shown with cap removed)
Red Arrows - Engine trim locating lugs
View attachment 25286

(and underside of engine plastic trim, to show locating lugs)
View attachment 25287

Firstly, warm up the engine by taking for a drive, then park on level ground.

Connect the "In/Inlet" tube to the oil tube (green arrow on locations image above), the oil tube cap is removed by undoing the cap quarter turn, then lifting off.
View attachment 25288

Insert drain tube into your waste oil collection container - secure this, as when the pump is sucking a lot of air, and can make the tubes bounce about a bit.

Connect the pump according to the pump's instructions - mine is 12v, so I used a spare car battery, but could have run it from the jumpstart points in the engine bay.

Switch on, and after a few seconds, you should see it sucking the oil out...
View attachment 25289

Lovely stuff...
View attachment 25290

After a short period, you will hear or see the pump change, as its starts sucking air from the sump. This took about 6 minutes on me el-cheapo Lidl pump. I turned the pump off for a minute, and then back on, so get as much out as possible. Ideally, try to measure how much came out, as this will let you know that you have got as much out as possible, and how much to put back in.

When you have as much out as you can get turn off the pump and with a rag to hand to catch spills and drips, disconnect the pump's inlet tube from the oil tube on the engine. Put the oil tube cap back on, turning quarter of a turn to lock it in place.

Follow any instructions on the pump to clean it. Mine suggested running some fresh oil through it, but others may have different procedures.

Now onto the filter. Remove the engine plastic trim by undoing the oil filler cap, and lifting up, and unclipping from its locating lugs - use the pictures at top to see where the locating lugs are. Immediately replace the oil filler cap to prevent anything accidentally falling in there!

The filter can be identified in the top picture by the blue arrow. Place rags all around the filter as shown below, as when you lift it out, it will drip oil! If its a windy day, put some heavy items on the rags to stop them blowing away.

Using a 32mm socket, undo the filter exactly 6 full turns.
View attachment 25291

Do NOT lift filter cap off, leave it there for 2 -3 mins to drain a bit. Then lift it clear, having more rags to had to catch any drips - as soon as you can, turn filter housing cap upside down.
View attachment 25292

New filter should come with a large rubber o ring.
View attachment 25293

Remove the old filter insert - its clipped into the cap, to will take a bit of force to pull it out. It just pulls out straight. Any oil collected in cap can be tipped out into a container for disposal.

Remove the old o ring.

Smear new O ring with fresh oil, and put on the cap.

Push the new filter into the cap. It clips in place, and might take a bit of force to clip it all the way in. It should sit flush.

Screw filter and cap back in place, tightening to 27Nm (20 lbft) using a torque wrench. Do not over tighten, else next time you come to do this job, you may shear the "nut" off the top of the filter housing cap!

Remove oil filler cap, and then replace the engine plastic trim.

Put in 6 - 6.5l of oil meeting the required spec (most UK suppliers where you enter registration suggest unsuitable oil. Get what your glovebox manual states - mine is Ford spec 934-b). Using oil that not low SAPS will not do your DPF any favours!!

Leave the car 10mins for the oil level to settle, then check oil level via the instrument panel (full instructions in your glovebox manual).

If the oil is not at minimum, put in another litre, wait another 10mins, and repeat if necessary.

When oil is showing above minimum, start the engine for about 2 mins, to fill the oil filter back up. If you get any oil warnings that do not disappear within 5s or so, stop engine immediately and investigate.

Stop the engine, leave for 10 mins, and check oil level again. Top up if necessary (aim for about 3/4s on the level gauge on the dash), waiting 10mins each time for the oil to fully drain down into the sump.

Relax with a nice brew, with the smug knowledge you've saved yourself a fortune :)
Hi The Boy, nice "How to", just have a couple of questions if you don't mind :

1. Re the placement of the clear plastic pipe that goes between the dipstick tube and the suction pump; you appear to have got the suction tube over the top of the dipstick tube?? I thought the idea of oil emptying from above was that you have a suction tube small enough so that you can stuff it down the inside of the dipstick until it reaches the sump ?

2. Re the removal of the oil filter housing, you state "undo the filter exactly 6 full turns." Didn't understand this precision, I normally just undo the housing until it is out of the threads. is there a particular reason for this instruction ?

Thanks again,

Dave
 

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Hi The Boy, nice "How to", just have a couple of questions if you don't mind :

1. Re the placement of the clear plastic pipe that goes between the dipstick tube and the suction pump; you appear to have got the suction tube over the top of the dipstick tube?? I thought the idea of oil emptying from above was that you have a suction tube small enough so that you can stuff it down the inside of the dipstick until it reaches the sump ?

2. Re the removal of the oil filter housing, you state "undo the filter exactly 6 full turns." Didn't understand this precision, I normally just undo the housing until it is out of the threads. is there a particular reason for this instruction ?

Thanks again,
Dave
No, the plastic tubing fits snugly over the dipstick tube, helping to create a vacuum, just done mine yesterday

On the "exactly 6 turns" no idea I'm afraid

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
1) its not a dipstick, its a oil vacuum tube. If you had a small enough tube, you could push it down in the old fashioned vacuum method, but it would have to be quite small, and take a while. Doing it the way I suggested, which is how JLR designed it to be done, is quicker and dead easy :)

2) It needs to be undo enough that it lets air in, but not enough that it will drip externally whilst it drains back into the engine. That's 6 turns :)


HTH
 

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This is a great guide! Thanks for all of your guides @TheBoy - they are really useful (y)

Having just changed my oil for the first time using a manual suction pump method I found the pipe to be too short. I ended up using a box to put the pump on as I've seen others do. The pump is then uncomfortably close to the wing (I used a towel on mine to minimise the likelihood of getting scratches).
The pump was supplied with 4 sizes of pipe and the largest one is a very snug fit on the engine oil tube.

I had tried unsuccessfully to extend my pipe using some flexible hosing that went flat under vacuum (no doubt not helped by being filled with hot oil!). :)

I was going to try and find a longer length of the rigid pipe but haven't managed that yet...

It occurred to me that the second largest pipe might fit snugly inside the largest pipe. I tried this for fit last night and it does work!
So using both of the larger sized two tubes together results in a much more usable pipe length and would hopefully allow the pump to be positioned on the floor (no box) and also further away from the wing. The rubber fitting on the larger tube needs to be taken off (I placed it onto the smaller tube for safekeeping).
I haven't actually tried this in reality yet and I would expect that the smaller bore tube may slightly restrict flow (this might not be noticeable as the engine tube might be of similar ID).

Hope this might be of help to someone.
 
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This is a great guide! Thanks for all of your guides @TheBoy - they are really useful (y)

Having just changed my oil for the first time using a manual suction pump method I found the pipe to be too short. I ended up using a box to put the pump on as I've seen others do. The pump is then uncomfortably close to the wing (I used a towel on mine to minimise the likelihood of getting scratches).
The pump was supplied with 4 sizes of pipe and the largest one is a very snug fit on the engine oil tube.

I had tried unsuccessfully to extend my pipe using some flexible hosing that went flat under vacuum (no doubt not helped by being filled with hot oil!). :)

I was going to try and find a longer length of the rigid pipe but haven't managed that yet...

It occurred to me that the second largest pipe might fit snugly inside the largest pipe. I tried this for fit last night and it does work!
So using both of the larger sized two tubes together results in a much more usable pipe length and would hopefully allow the pump to be positioned on the floor (no box) and also further away from the wing.
The rubber fitting on the larger tube needs to be taken off (I placed it onto the smaller tube for safekeeping).
I haven't actually tried this in reality yet and I would expect that the smaller bore tube may slightly restrict flow (this might not be noticeable as the engine tube might be of similar ID).

Hope this might be of help to someone.
Thats exactly what I did, assumed everyone else did the same

The smaller dia tube is a nice snug fit into the slightly larger diameter tube, which then fits nice n snug over the vacuum tube

Jim
 

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Ah great minds and all that Jim 😁

It looks like I've pointed out the obvious then lol!
 
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Now onto the filter. Remove the engine plastic trim by undoing the oil filler cap, and lifting up, and unclipping from its locating lugs - use the pictures at top to see where the locating lugs are. Immediately replace the oil filler cap to prevent anything accidentally falling in there!
I have found an issue with this write up , there is no mention of putting the oil filler cap back on :)
Hi Eddie I know you were only joking but he actually did :love:
 
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