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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi

I had various fault codes when my battery was low on a X350 2007.

Changed the battery for one with 22.30 volts. But amber dash light and message remained.

Used a ELM27 OBD11 li k to phone scanner which picked up the fault codes
P0500 vehicle speed sensor circuit
C003A Left rear wheel sensor
C0037 Right rear wheel sensor
U0155 Engine control unit OBD11 bus failure to read

I have changed my rear wheel sensor twice now. Orginally I got a minor intermittent dash light on with DSC not available
But now I getting this ABS fault and Cruise control not available fault all the time after change both rear wheel sensors. Maybe I have not fully seated the wheel sensor wire connectors on both? Somehow.

Beginning to think the fault is elsewhere because getting Both LH and RH wheel sensor at the same time is unusual

1 Could be a electrical earth fault. Will check the ones under the bonnet again are not corroded.

2 Could be a harness fault but unlikely to be both LH and RH ABS wheel sensor harnesses at the same time.
Does anyone know the route of these rear wheel sensor harnesses. Think on end enter the car under the rear seat. Is this correct.

Maybe I need to measure ohms on wheel sensor harness clip to see if it show some sort of current or not to see if it's a broken wire in the harness.

4 Maybe it's just a fuse. Anyone know which fuse at all. Are they
bonnet F20 30A F22 30A and Cabin F17 5A.
Thanks
Ken
 

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Changed the battery for one with 22.30 volts
At 22.3v it would have fried everything. If it was 12.3v then it’s too low as it should be 12.8v.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
At 22.3v it would have fried everything. If it was 12.3v then it’s too low as it should be 12.8v.
Thank-you for the reply on my typo error.
Yes you right I meant 12.30 volts. Thought this potential difference was enough to allow a X350 to function properly, after charging it up with a trickle charger.
But you say 12.8 so pretty much a new battery that hasn't been allowed to get drained on the car by a fault or leaving the parking light on by mistake.
Well since I run the car a bit since I could remeasure the battery voltage to see of its risen any. Battery I took off was a new battery which I currently trickle charging up.

My earlier point about earth points gone bad on this aluminium chassis C codes or Body B codes may be relevant if it stop the battery voltage from reaching the rear wheel sensors.
Could do with a fuse box of listed fuses functions if anyone has a link fir a X350.
Ken
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Have a look here and click on the electrical manual for your car.
Hi
Thanks for the link. PDF electric guide shows the fuse box locations and I can see where F20 F22 are in the fuse box under bonnet.

When I look at my 6 spare rear wheel sensors.

2 older type XJ8 pre 2003 have a magnet in them. Ie they attract a screw driver holding on to the metal ok.

4 newer type sensor spares do not show any magnism in them off the car. How come. Shouldn't they have a magnet attraction or

is the reluctor ring in the X350 magnetic as I thought it was just a series slits rotating past the wheel sensor.

Anyone know please.

Do I need to purchase more rear wheel sensors yet again. Some on ebay at around £13 to £15 each.

Here's a extract on the Hall effect Sensor. It stipulates there must be a magnetic field present for the sensor to work.

Hall effect sensor detects the presence and magnitude of a magnetic field using the Hall effect. The output voltage of a Hall sensor is directly proportional to the strength of the field.

A wheel containing two magnets passing by a Hall effect sensor
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Cylinders_with_Hall_sensors.png
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Clutch_with_Hall_Effect_sensor.jpg


Electrical symbol

Hall sensors are used for proximity, positioning, speed detection and current sensing. Hall sensors are commonly used to time the speed of wheels and shafts, such as ignition timing, tachometer and anti-lock braking systems.
In the pictured wheel with two equally spaced magnets, the voltage from the sensor peaks twice for each revolution. This arrangement is commonly used to regulate the speed.

Hall effect is the production of a voltage difference of a conductor that is transverse to an electrical conductor and perpendicular to an magnetic field. So the conductor crosses the magnetic field North and South poles.

So there is magnet in the wheel sensor that is transverse on its detecting end.

When I look at my 2 older XJ8 rounder ended sensor possible a passive type, you can metal separated by plastic and they are definitely magnetic. But when I look at the newer X350 sensor cannot see any metal on its detector end and it does show that its magetic.
 

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This issue occurs on X308s and is rectified by renewing the brake switch "behind" the brake pedal. I wonder if the X350 could be the same?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
This issue occurs on X308s and is rectified by renewing the brake switch "behind" the brake pedal. I wonder if the X350 could be the same?
Thanks for the info

I previously changed the brake pedal switch but now you mention it I will look at it again. Could be disconnected having pumped brake pedal of some brake bleeding work recently. Have another spare brake switch incase it is this that causing the issue on the X350 like the X308s. Well worth checking this so many thanks for your reply.

Probably a red herring but decided to order yet 2 more rear wheel sensors part no XR822753 but both of them at once that causing the fault codes C0037 and C003A is quite remote isn't it. Probably something else central to the ABS reading the brake operations just like the brake pedal switch.

I think you were right.

I just relooked at the brake pedal switch. Took it off its twist pins and deconnected it. It was a replacement white and blue in colour. Put on a second replacement that had and refitted thr small electrical push in connector, think just 2 pin. Ran engine and no amber light or fault messages.
Early days as haven't driven the car yet but it looks like it was the fix in my situation so we'll done.
Also looked at my X308 XJ 1998 to 2001. It has a white connector near to the pedal. Pedal seems to push brake server drum so the brake switch may be a different part number than the X350 XJ 2003 to 2009. But as I had a intermittent ABS fault on the X308 it may also be well worth me investigating on that car aswell.
 

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Mine did exactly the same, it was the 'clock-spring' behind the steering wheel. Eventually, I (intermittently) lost the horn, radio controls, the lot. I believe there is one 'Cancellation unit' as Jaguar call it for late cars left in the uK but plenty available second-hand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the info

I previously changed the brake pedal switch but now you mention it I will look at it again. Could be disconnected having pumped brake pedal of some brake bleeding work recently. Have another spare brake switch incase it is this that causing the issue on the X350 like the X308s. Well worth checking this so many thanks for your reply.

Probably a red herring but decided to order yet 2 more rear wheel sensors part no XR822753 but both of them at once that causing the fault codes C0037 and C003A is quite remote isn't it. Probably something else central to the ABS reading the brake operations just like the brake pedal switch.

I think you were right.

I just relooked at the brake pedal switch. Took it off its twist pins and deconnected it. It was a replacement white and blue in colour. Put on a second replacement that had and refitted thr small electrical push in connector, think just 2 pin. Ran engine and no amber light or fault messages.
Early days as haven't driven the car yet but it looks like it was the fix in my situation so we'll done.
Also looked at my X308 XJ 1998 to 2001. It has a white connector near to the pedal. Pedal seems to push brake server drum so the brake switch may be a different part number than the X350 XJ 2003 to 2009. But as I had a intermittent ABS fault on the X308 it may also be well worth me investigating on that car aswell.
***
Unfortunately the ABS fault and Cruise control not available returned on doing a test drive today. I also noticed the Tachometer was not working. Ie on zero so no speed indication.

Don't know what's going on.

Fault codes read today as C0037 and C003A and think U0155

Any ideas please.

Will relook at
1 Battery voltage
2 Earth points behind headlights
3 Pedal brake switch
4 The rear wheel sensors. Will attempt a 3rd change of them once I receive 2 ordered used Jaguar sensors.
5 Possibly the ABS fuses F20 and F22 30 A bonnet fuse box and F17 5A cabin fuse box.
6 The ABS. Notice it has a poor soldered exposed wires to its connector.
7 This leaves me with 2 rear wheel harnesses. Think I might need a garage to change these as I don't know if I can get at them with just a car jack and stand alone. Think they are routed under the under liner into the cat via the tear seat.

Why does the Tachometer not work? Has a binacle light on. Is there a fuse for the tachnometer?

Thanks.

Any other ideas please.
 

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The link lead that attached to the ABS sensor has a tough existence due to constant flexing. I have had problems with intermittent high resistance in the crimps inside the connector.
 

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Incase it’s worth considering, and apologies if I’ve missed something.
You can change sensors until the cows come home, but if the reluctor ring ‘windows‘ have rust ( from the shafts) in the windows, then you are going to continue to have issues. Were the later ones fitted with toothed rings? Don’t think so but someone will know.
Of course you can buy sensors cheaply, and that maybe fine. I’ve used reasonably priced ( but not cheapest) Febi to good effect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The link lead that attached to the ABS sensor has a tough existence due to constant flexing. I have had problems with intermittent high resistance in the crimps inside the connector.
Thank you for your reply.
I have been trying to research the ABS fault. Looked at several utube videos. Learnt 2 things
1 A wheel sensor can be passive or active usually have 2 wires or pins. The active sensor is activated only when the ignition is turned on, so to measure AC voltage setting a multimeter say to a range to cover the sensors output would be around 700 to 800 (think). as depends in the car. The passive doesn't need the ignition turned on to measure its restance so set meter at 2000 ohms to measure.

2 The stepped toothed reluctor ring can be the magnetic part or the sensor can be the magnetic part.

In the case of old X308 think the rear sensors were passive and magnetic as I could measure the ohms around 1129.

Tried to do the same on spare X350 wheel rear sensors and I could not get a ohms reading. So think they are in open circuit unless they are on the car with ignition on to activate them. Also think it's the reluctor ring that is the magnetic part.

My reluctor rings on the car looked OK. Did not see much in the way of rust and they look free of debre. Used a wire brush to clean them as far as it would go.

As I have stopped both rear wheel sensors and cleaned the connections at this stage I think I have relook at them and the harness to see if the harness has any obvious damage.

In the case if the X350 the wheel harness travels ulinto the car under the rear seat so I could test the harness for continuity there and the sensors connectors. That's would eliminate any broken harness problem. Have two spare harness that I know are good have tested them.

Other things I learnt are there is a order to common ABS issues by checking in order
1 the harness
2 the sensor
3 the fuses
4 the ABS module.

In the case if X350 could add in
1 Battery voltage above 12.7 and the brake pedal switch as fairly easy to access.
2 Then the 2or 3 fuses as they can accessed easy. Think F20 F22 and F17.
3 Then the wheel sensors if I could somehow measure the AC voltage whilst spinning the wheel with the ignition on??
4 Then the Harness.
Looks like I might have to remove the rear seat to find the harness end on the left side. Believe rear seat is removed by moving 4 clips leftwards. Plus would have get the hand brake to release by pushing the EPB lever down, then turn off ignition.

Don't know much about tracing wires via the ABS control multiple plug. Some wires are exposed at the ABS pump having been soldered by someone in the past and taped over.

Failing that I think it's going have to put in a garage for a Mechanic to test using the Jaguar standard SDD diagonistic scanner to scan ABS module whilst driving to trace the problem.

On the failure of the tachnometer think it points to one of the rear wheel sensors. The car a RHD so maybe it's the right rear wheel sensor that tells the tachnometer what the speeds is via its motor.

Many thanks again for the replies.
 

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Use the wiring diagram to see where the wheel speed sensors terminate and back probe them from there all the way to the sensor connectors near the wheel. Test for resistance and give the wire a wiggle at the suspect points, like where the previous repair was.
If you see high resistance, you can test smaller sections of wiring until you have narrowed it down.

There was a post recently about someone who purchased OEM sensors but only for some reason only the genuine Jag boxed ones worked. Can’t remember the details, like the model. Not a common problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Use the wiring diagram to see where the wheel speed sensors terminate and back probe them from there all the way to the sensor connectors near the wheel. Test for resistance and give the wire a wiggle at the suspect points, like where the previous repair was.































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































If you see high resistance, you can test smaller sections of wiring until you have narrowed it down.































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































There was a post recently about someone who purchased OEM sensors but only for some reason only the genuine Jag boxed ones worked. Can’t remember the details, like the model. Not a common problem.





























































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































Thanks for the reply advice about going down in sections the connections testing to ground.































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































Looking at Electrical guide for 2004 seems relevant rear harness connectors are































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































FP6-8 to CV5-11 which is at the sensor. Think FP6-8 is either under rear seat via a rubber grommet or on too of fuel tank under the rear if the X350. FP6 being a 22 way DSC. connector. rather than ABS in the electrical guide.




























































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































Plus as I recently refitted boot RH rear electronic module have previously gained access the parking breke module. Could I have created a fault ther at all by not seating a connector as it was recently accesed and would it interfere with the ABS, I wonder?
 
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