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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My wife has 1 2004 Ford Ranger 2.5 diesel, she have a problem with it starting, if you turn the key, wait for the glow plug light to go out, turn the key goes to turn over then just makes a whirring noise..... this doesn't just happen in the morning when it's cold, it can be at any time, even when the engines warm, sometimes you can get it to start by turning the ignition on, waiting for the glow light to go out, pump the throttle and repeat 3 times then it will start, other times it won't work?
garage diagnosed faulty alternator, and not enough charge in the battery, well iv'e had the battery on charge overnight, tested it and it's fully charged and it still turned over once then whirred, only started after three sets of glow plug light turning on and off.

any thoughts please? starter motor?
thanks Tony
 

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As above from Dave,

Assuming the battery is in good order , sound like the starter solenoid or pinion gear is worn.

As starter motors go , this is an easy one to access from under the sub-frame.

3 x 13mm bolts to get it out and 10mm for the battery +ve cable.
 

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Whirring noise is the starter spinning but not engaging.....
1 Battery not holding charge
2 Alternator not producing enough power
3 Buggered starter

to check;
At rest,you should see 12.6/12.8 volts at the battery,engine running should see 14.5v at the battery(this also proves the alternator)
If the battery/alternator pass,your culprit is the starter.
 

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Might be the old "breaking up DMF issue" worst case. If the starter is full of filings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks all, new starter brought, fitted and all working ok now :mrgreen:
 

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My wife has 1 2004 Ford Ranger 2.5 diesel, she have a problem with it starting, if you turn the key, wait for the glow plug light to go out, turn the key goes to turn over then just makes a whirring noise..... this doesn't just happen in the morning when it's cold, it can be at any time, even when the engines warm, sometimes you can get it to start by turning the ignition on, waiting for the glow light to go out, pump the throttle and repeat 3 times then it will start, other times it won't work?
garage diagnosed faulty alternator, and not enough charge in the battery, well iv'e had the battery on charge overnight, tested it and it's fully charged and it still turned over once then whirred, only started after three sets of glow plug light turning on and off.

any thoughts please? starter motor?
thanks Tony
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Tony.

Do me a favour.

WHAT'S THE GODDAM VOLTAGE AT THE BATTERY TERMINALS?! :) :)

People who say "I charged it and it still.." do my head in. :roll:

Apart from this it will lead you to needlessly throw more bits at the car.

A green light on a charger is like.. "Could be".

So let's check the battery in a sure way first.

After charging or after running the engine, ensure the engine is off, turn on the headlamps for 3 minutes to remove what's called the "Surface Charge", then measure with a volt metre across the battery terminals.

You should see 12.7 volts for a modern calcium battery in fully charged condition.

The old fashioned batteries would show 12.5 to 12.6 volts.

12.5 volts on a calcium battery is low.

Yes this small volts difference in calcium batteries is critical because 12.0 volts is technically dead.

Old cars used to run reliably with batteries as low as 11 volts, I remember it well.

Let us know what you see bud.

.
 

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I'm with others on here, it sounds very much like your battery is dying. Diesel starter motors require much more power than petrol starters due to the higher compression ratio. If you've got some jump leads and another car, try hooking it up and see how it starts a few times.

Also as above, if you have a multi-meter, get the voltage of the battery and see if the battery is at an acceptable level. Also to rule out the alternator check the voltage across the battery with the engine running, it should read around 14v, if the voltage doesn't change or goes down with the engine running then the alternator isn't working.

If the battery is reading OK it's also worth putting a multimeter across the starter while cranking (if it's accessible to do so safely) to ensure that the cabling isn't at fault. Generally you will get a slightly lower reading while cranking as the load on the battery will pull the voltage down by 1-2v, but if you are reading something like 8v across the starter then you know the cabling is at fault, most likely a weak earth strap somewhere.
 

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It's the short days and short journeys in winter time, the battery won't recharge by picking up the kids because the headlamps are on most of the time.

Mum needs to start the car 6 to 8 times or more every day.

Start (10% charge gone) do a short journey with wipers, heating blowers, headlamps on, stop, get kids or shopping, start, drive home in slow traffic everything electrical turned on, and repeat ad infinitum.

Get a smart charger like the C-Tek MXS 5 for around £60 it handles all battery types and can recondition tired batteries too, and you can top up both cars once a week or as needed.

It can take a couple of days on the C-tek to recondition and fully charge a flat battery.

That's the best spend for your money.

Don't get a cheap charger you'll not be any better off than now.
 
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