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Anyone reccomend a good reconditioned turbo provider in N, N/E, E London or Essex?

3454 Views 12 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  martynuk
Hi All

I am as excited as a kid at Xmas as I am having the Engine Pulley / Tensioner kit fitted by my Jaguar Mechanic on Friday night. Hope silence really is golden.
Front ARB bushes also getting replaced at the same time...also getting a replacement N/S/F headlight bulb replaced as the goons in Halfords had to decline their bulb fitting service saying the battery was in the way and the job was not possible without taking the bumbper off, maybe removing the plate that hold the battery in etc etc.

However I am going to have the codes read at the same time and suspect I will be faced with another "your car needs this or that sorting". I suspect turbo is next as I have tried all the usual suspects in terms of EGR clean, EGR replacement, replaced split intercooler pipe, partial blanking plate, a whole bottle of Millers diesel treatment, an italian tune up, and MAF clean - without success.

I still get into Limp Home when I have to toe it from a standing or rolling start and plenty of black smoke to gift anyone withing 30 feet of my bumper when I give the right foot a tweak.

So does anyone know of or had good experiences with a reconditioned turbo provided and fitted by someone in London, ideally North, North West, North East London, or even Essex/Herts? Thanks in advance.
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Google Essex Turbos
We use them for any turbo,s we need not cheap but good
Thanks Adventure Boy - Found them on the web and they are only half hour away from me - so if all else fails. I will be giving those guys a bell to see if they can help. Look pricey but if they are that good I dont mind.

Thanks Goudy - I remember reading these posts a while back. They symptoms do sound so familar that I am hoping I am getting closer to my problem. However it seems the resoldering of the connections in the actuator is quite tricky. Getting codes ready tomorrow evening so will see what comes up.

Also a chap started work at my place recently with a 2.0 D and we spoke about our cars - he is also a forum member - and the first thing he said to me was "have you had trouble with your turbo YET"....... seems he had similar problems so had a recon one fitted (twice as the 1st one didnt work) and says he hasnt had issues since.
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Well I had the codes read on Friday night - and sure enough I have the dreaded P2263 code error - relating to the Turbo performance. Brilliant!
So I am now torn as to what to do next. What would you do to from the following options?

1) Get a refurbed turbo from Essex Turbos - pricey but could be money well spent
2) Get a refurbed turbo cheaper from someone else and hope it lasts.
3) Try the actuator repair and see if it is just that 1 wire that needs soldering - although I will need to buy a soldering iron (ensuring not to smash the car to bits as I have little patience - and running out of patience quikcly with the Jag)
4) Sell the car quickly and get something else that doesnt need so much money thrown at it all the frigging time.
Take the actuator off and have a look at the wiring, if it's suspect get it repaired, someone you know must be handy with the soldering iron.
Maybe the poster of that post may do it for you for a few beers!

Or these will do it in Greenwich
Thanks Goudy - spot on advice as always. Thanks for the link to these guys, will see what they say about taking a look at the actuator as they arent that far away from me.

I called a Jag Stealer and gave my chassis number. Their part number for a 2.0D Turbo with Electronic Actuator was an eye-watering £1,550 Inc VAT! Called Essex Turbo who quoted £540 INC VAT for a recon part but for that, you have to send them your old turbo in exchange.
Get the actuator off and open it up,
and this
Limp mode and P2263 error - 2.0L / 2.2L Duratorq TDDi & TDCi Diesel Engines (Mondeo Mk3) -
Should help you.

The wires may not look broken around the edge, but could be just lose.

That ECU clinic will no doubt charge you a pretty penny, but I reckon you could get your local hobbiest to help solder it up if you aren't up to it, model railway club/shop, RC car club/shop, even hang around the counter at your local Maplins (worked for me once)

Print the posts off and take them with you.
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Hi Grant

Where about's are you in Essex? I am in Hockley and can wield a soldering iron.

Now thats what I love about this forum!!! So helpful. Thanks Martyn, but yesterday I ordered a soldering iron from ebay which should be here by the weekend. I am near Epping/Loughton area. If the soldering iron repair attempt doesn't go well. I might just take you up on your kind offer. Thanks.

However I have looked up the posts about this actuator fault, but one thing I didnt see was how to get the Actuator off the car in the first place. Is it a doddle? I havent had a good visual look around it personally, so once you pull the electric plug out, how many bolts hold it in place, and are their any pitfalls to be aware of?
No idea how it comes off, the other post said a couple of bolts and clips??
My actuator is a vacuum one.

You need to remove the solder on the joints and take the surface back to the copper faces before any new solder can be added or it won't stick.
Don't heat the circuit board up or it'll crack.

You need to make new connecting wires, make sure you use the correct grade (trip to Maplins) as anything less will burn out again, leave them looped to account for any expansion when current passes through.
Hi Grant

Looking at the actuator repair photos it looks as that if you take the big plug out and you can see the 6 clips that hold the Black 1/2

which contains the printed circuit board to the bottom 1/2, all you need to do is undo the 6 clips taking care not to drop them!!

Having done that the top 1/2 should pull off and bingo you can get at the the PCB.

Make sure you get old solder off and use good solder and correct temperature soldering iron tip so as not to overheat the pads

Good luck hope it goes well

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