I replaced all 4 discs and 8 pads on my XE with EBC Brakes stuff. The original equipment discs corroded very badly and by 20k miles were also very grooved and had thus worn out the pads. So far (about 7k miles) the EBC discs and pads ("Redstuff" ceramic) have been excellent with no sign of corrosion or any grooving. The Redstuff pads also make very little dust so the wheels stay clean, and braking performance is excellent. EBC brakes are not the cheapest, but I think the premium price is worth it.
Brake Discs
I need to get the discs and pads changed on my XF, 2018 model Portfolio 25T.
I am loathe to have original Jaguar discs fitted because they've been pretty poor in terms of corrosion, as I've mentioned in other threads. Corrosion was evident after just a few months, despite the car being garaged and the brakes dried off after washing and Its been a constant job to try to keep the corrosion at bay by doing a few stops from high speed every now and then. Never had this issue with any other car I've owned.
Has anyone used a different brand of disc or can recommend one?
I am loathe to have original Jaguar discs fitted because they've been pretty poor in terms of corrosion, as I've mentioned in other threads. Corrosion was evident after just a few months, despite the car being garaged and the brakes dried off after washing and Its been a constant job to try to keep the corrosion at bay by doing a few stops from high speed every now and then. Never had this issue with any other car I've owned.
Has anyone used a different brand of disc or can recommend one?
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On rear axle I’ve changed to MTEC C-hook painted discs with EBC redstuff pads. Non contact disc surfaces being painted don’t show any signs of rust while the contact ones are shiny and with no grooves so far. Had quite a few very fast drives in last 12 months and the braking was perfect with few high speed braking with no struggle or a damage to the surface.
I’ll be changing fronts with the same setup once the time comes.
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I’ll be changing fronts with the same setup once the time comes.
I think either TRW or ATE branded discs would be the OEM for your car.
I think all discs would rust the same way though.
Regular heavy braking is the only thing in 20 years of driving jags that I have found to help.
Not all aftermarket ‘upgrade’ options will give the same performance as the OEM setup, which is usually very good on Jaguars.
Look for DOT pad ratings as a guide and maybe high carbon discs.
I think all discs would rust the same way though.
Regular heavy braking is the only thing in 20 years of driving jags that I have found to help.
Not all aftermarket ‘upgrade’ options will give the same performance as the OEM setup, which is usually very good on Jaguars.
Look for DOT pad ratings as a guide and maybe high carbon discs.
"I think all discs would rust the same way though."
I'm sorry but you'll never convince me of that. In the past 20 years I've had 2 VWs, 3 BMWs, a Merc, a 911, a Caterham 7 and a Kia e Niro. that last two we still have. None of the discs on those last two show any corrosion after 8 and 3 years (despite the Kia's hardly being used). I never even considered changing discs on any of the other cars. None of them had new pads in fact, though with the exception of the second VW they were all sold with less than 50k miles on the clock.
There is no doubt in my mind that the Jag discs have corroded more quickly than any other make I've ever owned. There was significant corrosion before the car was a year old and Jaguar were advising me of the corrosion at it's 2 year service. It's only the regular, deliberate, hard braking that's kept them at all serviceable but more recently there is heavy corrosion in the vented area of the fronts as well as the face and rims.
I'm sorry but you'll never convince me of that. In the past 20 years I've had 2 VWs, 3 BMWs, a Merc, a 911, a Caterham 7 and a Kia e Niro. that last two we still have. None of the discs on those last two show any corrosion after 8 and 3 years (despite the Kia's hardly being used). I never even considered changing discs on any of the other cars. None of them had new pads in fact, though with the exception of the second VW they were all sold with less than 50k miles on the clock.
There is no doubt in my mind that the Jag discs have corroded more quickly than any other make I've ever owned. There was significant corrosion before the car was a year old and Jaguar were advising me of the corrosion at it's 2 year service. It's only the regular, deliberate, hard braking that's kept them at all serviceable but more recently there is heavy corrosion in the vented area of the fronts as well as the face and rims.
I don’t disagree."I think all discs would rust the same way though."
I'm sorry but you'll never convince me of that. In the past 20 years I've had 2 VWs, 3 BMWs, a Merc, a 911, a Caterham 7 and a Kia e Niro. that last two we still have. None of the discs on those last two show any corrosion after 8 and 3 years (despite the Kia's hardly being used). I never even considered changing discs on any of the other cars. None of them had new pads in fact, though with the exception of the second VW they were all sold with less than 50k miles on the clock.
There is no doubt in my mind that the Jag discs have corroded more quickly than any other make I've ever owned. There was significant corrosion before the car was a year old and Jaguar were advising me of the corrosion at it's 2 year service. It's only the regular, deliberate, hard braking that's kept them at all serviceable but more recently there is heavy corrosion in the vented area of the fronts as well as the face and rims.
I was talking about the brands of disc. Whichever you fit, ATE, Delphi etc will corrode.
The 2007 BMW is on original discs and has done more mileage. The Jag has had three sets.
The newer 2015 BMW has aluminium bells to the disc.
BMW mount the discs more inboard and cool them from the back.
The OE Discs were atrocious; My replacement MTEC Discs have done a little better, but still have started to grow small corrosion riges around the inner and outer segments of the disc.
I'd blame the calipers and brake balance; You only seem to get the rear brakes working if the rear is extremely heavily loaded - I've taken to filling it with a few 100KG of crap and doing heavy brake snubs on a deserted A road.
I'd blame the calipers and brake balance; You only seem to get the rear brakes working if the rear is extremely heavily loaded - I've taken to filling it with a few 100KG of crap and doing heavy brake snubs on a deserted A road.
I changed the rear pads to Delphi because they are GG rated and therefore a bit stickier than OEM.
I'm running mine on Brembo. They're fine. All disks corrode on the hub section so I painted them before fitting with some silver hammerite. The rest, any corrosion after washing vanishes the moment they're used so not really a problem. If you're getting permanent corrosion then sounds like the pads aren't contacting correctly.
I'd agree that the rears have a pretty easy time of it but, again, that's no different on any other marque, and I've never seen this before.
Jberks: "If you're getting permanent corrosion then sounds like the pads aren't contacting correctly."
I agree with that too and it looked like that very early in the car's life but the dealer insisted all was well on that front, for what that's worth, and the pads have worn squarely.
Jberks: "If you're getting permanent corrosion then sounds like the pads aren't contacting correctly."
I agree with that too and it looked like that very early in the car's life but the dealer insisted all was well on that front, for what that's worth, and the pads have worn squarely.
Tears on Jags actually take quite a bit of hammer. Jags have an anti dive braking setup so use (wear) the rears more than most other makes oddly.
where is the corrosion? In a band at the edge or more inside?
I know the early Discovery Sports had corroded disk issues so I guess there’s some connection but clearly the pads can’t be contacting or they’d be cleaned. Possibly there’s a gap in the pad so maybe a different designed pad?
where is the corrosion? In a band at the edge or more inside?
I know the early Discovery Sports had corroded disk issues so I guess there’s some connection but clearly the pads can’t be contacting or they’d be cleaned. Possibly there’s a gap in the pad so maybe a different designed pad?
It does appear that Jag assemble brake calipers on their factory builds without any lubrication for the caliper slide pins. When I had to replace all my discs and pads on my XE after 20k miles because of bad disc corrosion, deep scoring and consequent extreme pad wear, I found all the caliper slide pins very sticky - and with evidence of some corrosion as well. I cleaned them all up with Solvol Autosol and re-assembled them with silicone grease. So far, after about 7k miles the new EBC discs and pads are performing fine, with no evidence of corrosion or scoring. Whether this is due to superior EBC discs and pads, or the now more freely sliding calipers, is hard to say.If you're getting permanent corrosion then sounds like the pads aren't contacting correctly.
Another vote for this setup. I’ve got the same pads and EBC grooved discs. I haven’t driven the car yet but they do look good.I replaced all 4 discs and 8 pads on my XE with EBC Brakes stuff. The original equipment discs corroded very badly and by 20k miles were also very grooved and had thus worn out the pads. So far (about 7k miles) the EBC discs and pads ("Redstuff" ceramic) have been excellent with no sign of corrosion or any grooving. The Redstuff pads also make very little dust so the wheels stay clean, and braking performance is excellent. EBC brakes are not the cheapest, but I think the premium price is worth it.
Grease on the slide pins is a contentious issue. I use it on the Jag but not the BMW, as per the respective workshop manuals.
Yup.Grease on the slide pins is a contentious issue. I use it on the Jag but not the BMW, as per the respective workshop manuals.
After years of following this debate my take is that it depends on how well the slide pins are protected from dust/dirt/grime etc especially brake dust. If well protected and no or at least minimal chance of contamination then grease the slide pins, if not well protected then don't grease them. The theory is that greasy slide pins can get clogged up with muck and stick in the bores but if the muck can't get in they work better when greased.
On all three of my Jags I have found that the rubber plugs over the slide pin bores were a very tight fit such that there was almost zero chance of any contamination getting past them into the bores and onto the slide pins, so I have always (lightly) greased the slide pins. Guess what, I have never ever ever had any brake judder whatsoever!
I’m sure it has nothing to do with you living in Australia and not the west side of the Pennines. 😆.. I have never ever ever had any brake judder whatsoever!
Funny that, me neither.Guess what, I have never ever ever had any brake judder whatsoever!
Fair chance that is true!I’m sure it has nothing to do with you living in Australia and not the west side of the Pennines. 😆
I rarely drive in the rain here, it never snows here so no salt is ever applied to the roads, end result there is zero rust anywhere on the car. Another theorised cause of brake judder (which I reckon sounds plausible) is rust jacking inside the caliper pin bores - the insides of the bores get wet and salty and rust and that rust squeezes the pins causing them to stick. No possibility of that happening on my car.
Well, I’ve recently had new discs and pads from my local Indy. He’s used Borg and Beck discs which has saved about £300 over Jaguar OE. They seem fine so far, touch more bite (though my discs were pretty corroded so to be expected). Smooth and quiet in operation.
Time will tell re corrosion.
Time will tell re corrosion.
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