You could look out for cancer ... BBC News - Diesel exhausts do cause cancer, says WHO
buying advice sought...
looking at an 03' 2.0lt Diesel estate this weekend, are there any obvious things to check and look out for, I know absolutely nothing about this model so any and all advice will be gratefully received - school me guys!
thanks in advance....
thanks in advance....
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
I've seen that, now you're making me feel guilty!
I copied this from a post a while ago, so it's not aimed at your particular car.
There are a few reports of turbo actuators failing, but it's not what you's call a major issue with the X type Diesels.
Both 2.0 and 2.2 are from Ford, used in the Transit and Mondeo, so they are fairly hardy, although niggles and worn out parts do start to show up around the 70 to 80K.
I'll try and run through a few issues, you can search the forum for them, others will have "fixes" in the "how to guide" at the top of the X type page.
Clutch and Dual Mass Flywheel - noisy, wobbly, pulsing clutch action under your foot, starter motor problems, £800 plus, flywheels really need changing with a new clutch.
89K, has it had a replacement yet?
Worn Injectors - rough running, white smoke, limp mode (but could indicate other issues) £1000 for a set. plus recoding.
Saying this, there has been a few that have just needed recoding. Check under the top cover see if there are spanner marks on the nuts on the pipes to the injectors, this will show it's had work on them at some point.
There has been a few drive shaft replacement due to vibration on the motorway cruise.
Blocked or sticking EGR valves - juddering on over run/cruise, smoky exhaust, glow plug light on, clean for free, maybe replace.
Leaking intercooler hoses - Black sooty exhaust, hissing under bonnet, clips rust, pipe under EGR splits, £70 to replace hose.
Clapped out suspension - Clonks, knocks, creaks, rattles. Unevenly worn tyres? Both F&R Anti roll bar bushes and droplinks (knock & rattle), rear front control arms (bed spring creak) Rear hub carrier bushes can moan when reversing.
Aux belt, tensioner, crankpulley - Hammering, rattle, whirring sound on tickover, coming from OS of engine, particular when the aircon is on. Kit from Jag or source the Transit parts on Ebay (£150) for a saving.
Worth checking inner wheel rims if 18" fitted, can often crack.
A slow warm up or it failing to reach a proper temp (just under 1/2 on the gauge) is probably due to one or both thermostats. There's one normal for the rad and one on the waterpump to the oil cooler, both are only a few quid and easy to change.
Once it's warmed up, whip the oil filler cap off when running, if it's kicking out exhaust smoke from there, it's excessive blow by and a worn engine, also have a look in at the rocker arms for sticky black sludge. (the oil will be black, but can you wipe your finger through it to clean metal?)
It's hard to check with the undertray on, but there are a few weeping crank seals, oil may be seen dribbling from the bottom of the clutch bell housing (like mine! but it doesn't seem to be an issue with oil level)
My rule of thumb is, clonks, knocks and rattles can be put right fairly easy, so it's money off please.
Untoward smoke out the back when not under load, walk away. (black is usually excess fuel, blue is oil, white usually water)
There are a few reports of turbo actuators failing, but it's not what you's call a major issue with the X type Diesels.
Both 2.0 and 2.2 are from Ford, used in the Transit and Mondeo, so they are fairly hardy, although niggles and worn out parts do start to show up around the 70 to 80K.
I'll try and run through a few issues, you can search the forum for them, others will have "fixes" in the "how to guide" at the top of the X type page.
Clutch and Dual Mass Flywheel - noisy, wobbly, pulsing clutch action under your foot, starter motor problems, £800 plus, flywheels really need changing with a new clutch.
89K, has it had a replacement yet?
Worn Injectors - rough running, white smoke, limp mode (but could indicate other issues) £1000 for a set. plus recoding.
Saying this, there has been a few that have just needed recoding. Check under the top cover see if there are spanner marks on the nuts on the pipes to the injectors, this will show it's had work on them at some point.
There has been a few drive shaft replacement due to vibration on the motorway cruise.
Blocked or sticking EGR valves - juddering on over run/cruise, smoky exhaust, glow plug light on, clean for free, maybe replace.
Leaking intercooler hoses - Black sooty exhaust, hissing under bonnet, clips rust, pipe under EGR splits, £70 to replace hose.
Clapped out suspension - Clonks, knocks, creaks, rattles. Unevenly worn tyres? Both F&R Anti roll bar bushes and droplinks (knock & rattle), rear front control arms (bed spring creak) Rear hub carrier bushes can moan when reversing.
Aux belt, tensioner, crankpulley - Hammering, rattle, whirring sound on tickover, coming from OS of engine, particular when the aircon is on. Kit from Jag or source the Transit parts on Ebay (£150) for a saving.
Worth checking inner wheel rims if 18" fitted, can often crack.
A slow warm up or it failing to reach a proper temp (just under 1/2 on the gauge) is probably due to one or both thermostats. There's one normal for the rad and one on the waterpump to the oil cooler, both are only a few quid and easy to change.
Once it's warmed up, whip the oil filler cap off when running, if it's kicking out exhaust smoke from there, it's excessive blow by and a worn engine, also have a look in at the rocker arms for sticky black sludge. (the oil will be black, but can you wipe your finger through it to clean metal?)
It's hard to check with the undertray on, but there are a few weeping crank seals, oil may be seen dribbling from the bottom of the clutch bell housing (like mine! but it doesn't seem to be an issue with oil level)
My rule of thumb is, clonks, knocks and rattles can be put right fairly easy, so it's money off please.
Untoward smoke out the back when not under load, walk away. (black is usually excess fuel, blue is oil, white usually water)
Oh and watch for the glass tailgate popping open, first when you unlock the car, then again when you start the car, it's a common fault.
Also, check the spare wheel well for signs of water, seen a few estates lately with water in there.
Also, check the spare wheel well for signs of water, seen a few estates lately with water in there.
Agreeing on the AA inspection point and adding that the report can be used to lower the asking price. This way, you recover the cost of the inspection many times over and know what you are buying.
Many Thanks Guys! I'm that little bit more knowledgeable now I know what to look for. Superb!
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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