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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So a week or two ago my 2.2D automatic (2010) cut out right after I started it up. It ran for about a second and then immediately died. Same thing every time I started it.
I eventually got it running by randomly disconnecting stuff (the turbo actuator connector in this case), and then it started fine. And it ran fine afterwards that day.
A few days later the same thing happened, and after getting it going it was running rough, automatic gear shifts seemed erratic, and the engine seemed to be "searching", and it would sometimes cut out when I came to a stop.

Today, the same again, but this time I disconnected the MAP sensor on the EGR and it started up, but was running really rough. (I had the MAP sensor reconnected and had restarted the car at this point). It seems to start fine after running for a few minutes.

I've gotten lots of different errors on my reader over the last few weeks. Some point to the transmission (P1700 "failed to neutral"), torque signal (P1719), sometimes fuel pressure(P2288), torque converter clutch solenoid (P0744), etc, but I rarely get the same error twice, which is a bit odd.
It's like a different error every time I try to start the car.

I cleaned out the turbo a few weeks ago (Mr Muscle), and the EGR valve (but only a partial clean, I didn't totally remove it). I also checked the intercooler for oil build-up, but there wasn't any.

My initial thought was some kind of air blockage, but the car starts fine after it's been running for a while, it almost seems like something is building up overnight, or maybe sticking, and then frees up after the car warms up a bit.
It never goes into limp mode, and no check engine light.

Could it be a faulty EGR?
Dodgy wiring/ground?
A transmission issue?

Do these symptoms sound familiar to anyone?
It's like the car doesn't quite know what's wrong with itself.
 

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Could be any number of things, but start with something simple, take a jumper cable and go from battery -ve to the engine block - effectively creating a known good earth. If that fixes it you know what to look for.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Could be any number of things, but start with something simple, take a jumper cable and go from battery -ve to the engine block - effectively creating a known good earth. If that fixes it you know what to look for.
Ah yes, I get you! Might give that a shot tomorrow.
I suppose I should be checking all my powers and grounds anyway. I must get the electrical guide and workshop manual out.

It is almost time for a service, but I was a bit reluctant to do that in case there's something catastrophic wrong with the car and it has to go to the scrapyard, but I suppose it would be wise to throw a few fuel filter on anyway to rule that out.
 

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So a week or two ago my 2.2D automatic (2010) cut out right after I started it up. It ran for about a second and then immediately died. Same thing every time I started it.
I eventually got it running by randomly disconnecting stuff (the turbo actuator connector in this case), and then it started fine. And it ran fine afterwards that day.
A few days later the same thing happened, and after getting it going it was running rough, automatic gear shifts seemed erratic, and the engine seemed to be "searching", and it would sometimes cut out when I came to a stop.

Today, the same again, but this time I disconnected the MAP sensor on the EGR and it started up, but was running really rough. (I had the MAP sensor reconnected and had restarted the car at this point). It seems to start fine after running for a few minutes.

I've gotten lots of different errors on my reader over the last few weeks. Some point to the transmission (P1700 "failed to neutral"), torque signal (P1719), sometimes fuel pressure(P2288), torque converter clutch solenoid (P0744), etc, but I rarely get the same error twice, which is a bit odd.
It's like a different error every time I try to start the car.

I cleaned out the turbo a few weeks ago (Mr Muscle), and the EGR valve (but only a partial clean, I didn't totally remove it). I also checked the intercooler for oil build-up, but there wasn't any.

My initial thought was some kind of air blockage, but the car starts fine after it's been running for a while, it almost seems like something is building up overnight, or maybe sticking, and then frees up after the car warms up a bit.
It never goes into limp mode, and no check engine light.

Could it be a faulty EGR?
Dodgy wiring/ground?
A transmission issue?

Do these symptoms sound familiar to anyone?
It's like the car doesn't quite know what's wrong with itself.
I had exactly the same issue shortly before my turbo imploded , vanes were stuck closed , new turbo car starts on the dot
 

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I had exactly the same issue shortly before my turbo imploded , vanes were stuck closed , new turbo car starts on the dot
Good news/bad news: possible solution/££££££

Hope you get it sorted.
 

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Good news/bad news: possible solution/££££££

Hope you get it sorted.
It's sorted know got a second hand turbo from jaguar reserves, just I had exactly same symptoms as OP before it went car would cut out after starting , would have to hold key in starting position for a while then it would splutter into life , with my car having the vaccum actuator it never once threw a code or DTC etc , since fitting turbo car starts faultless
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's sorted know got a second hand turbo from jaguar reserves, just I had exactly same symptoms as OP before it went car would cut out after starting , would have to hold key in starting position for a while then it would splutter into life , with my car having the vaccum actuator it never once threw a code or DTC etc , since fitting turbo car starts faultless
I initially thought my problem was the turbo too because disconnecting the actuator solved the problem, but the vanes are definitely moving very freely on mine, and I gave it another shot of Mr. Muscle into the threaded hole just to be sure. The turbo spindle is fine too, no wobble or anything. I also, reconditioned the actuator motor a week or two ago so that should be good.
Of course it could be an issue with the actuator wiring or circuit board, it does seem that it was resoldered some time in the past..
 

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Of course it could be an issue with the actuator wiring or circuit board, it does seem that it was resoldered some time in the past..
It may be worth taking a soldering iron to the two main connections on the board as the joints may have gone dry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It may be worth taking a soldering iron to the two main connections on the board as the joints may have gone dry.
Yea, I might actually give that a shot.
The joints look messy, but they feel pretty solid, but of course the wires are fairly thick and so they might only be secure on one side.. You can't really tug and wiggle them like you can with normal connectors..

Passive circuit component Circuit component Hardware programmer Electronic engineering Electronic component
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I was just going to look at the actuator, and I tried starting the car again and noticed that there was a little puff of exhaust smoke coming from the turbo, just around the actuator arm. A little bit of blue exhaust smoke puffs out every time the car struggles, or when it dies.
The car was running for a minute or so just now, and it was struggling, and every time it struggled for a there'd be a bit of exhaust, like clockwork.
This does indeed seem to be the issue.
Is this a common problem?
I've got some friends popping over soon, for beer and stuff, so I might go at the car again tomorrow, but if somebody knows exactly what this issue might be it would probably save me taking the turbo out, at least until I need to.

And watching the actuator itself, it seems to be working just fine. It pops up and back quickly when the car starts or stops.
 

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So I was just going to look at the actuator, and I tried starting the car again and noticed that there was a little puff of exhaust smoke coming from the turbo, just around the actuator arm. A little bit of blue exhaust smoke puffs out every time the car struggles, or when it dies.
The car was running for a minute or so just now, and it was struggling, and every time it struggled for a there'd be a bit of exhaust, like clockwork.
This does indeed seem to be the issue.
Is this a common problem?
I've got some friends popping over soon, for beer and stuff, so I might go at the car again tomorrow, but if somebody knows exactly what this issue might be it would probably save me taking the turbo out, at least until I need to.

And watching the actuator itself, it seems to be working just fine. It pops up and back quickly when the car starts or stops.
Most probably vanes stuck , I thought mine were OK as actuator arm moved smooth , but it was only moving smooth half the distance it should move , gave it a good tugging with pliers and it came loose , see if it will give anymore it should move approx 1 inch
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So, I got some additional info over the last few days. It seems when the car is running poorly the MAP is reading higher than atmospheric pressure (100kPa), but when it's running well the MAP pressure drops.

This is a reading when the car is running good:

World Gadget Communication Device Font Gas


And this, is when it's struggling after I give it a little bit of throttle:

World Font Communication Device Scoreboard Gadget


So from looking at the readings it seems to me, that when I rev the car, the MAF and fuel rail pressure (FRP) should increase, while the MAP should drop. I assume this is normal behaviour?

But in my case, when the car is running poorly, the MAP increases with revs and it seems to be a bit all over the place. I'm not an expert on fuel or air levels by any means, but could it be a malfunctioning MAP sensor?
Or is there a possible reason that the manifold pressure is sometimes increasing instead of decreasing?
 

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First thing that stands out is that the MAF is way too low, even at idle on a 2.0 you would be seeing 18g/s there is nothing to indicate RPM but it should be considerably higher. Notice on the first scan that the MAF rises smooth ish and the FRP follows - I used to think that the MAF sensor on these was only used for EGR control but I now believe that it forms a part of the fuel quantity strategy.
When it faults note that the MAF and FRP are all over the place.
Remove the MAF and give it's internals a good dousing with brake/carb cleaner (purists demand "MAF cleaner" but I am yet to find any !)

If the MAF is reading correctly then there is something intermittently affecting the air flow in or out of the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
First thing that stands out is that the MAF is way too low, even at idle on a 2.0 you would be seeing 18g/s there is nothing to indicate RPM but it should be considerably higher. Notice on the first scan that the MAF rises smooth ish and the FRP follows - I used to think that the MAF sensor on these was only used for EGR control but I now believe that it forms a part of the fuel quantity strategy.
When it faults note that the MAF and FRP are all over the place.
Remove the MAF and give it's internals a good dousing with brake/carb cleaner (purists demand "MAF cleaner" but I am yet to find any !)

If the MAF is reading correctly then there is something intermittently affecting the air flow in or out of the engine.
Thanks for the reply.
I gave the MAF a good clean there, and checked the intake, but it didn't make a difference, but everything there was quite clean anyway.
I'm not sure that the MAF reading are too low though, for example on this page: here, they suggest it should be about 3g/s on a 2.0L Ford Focus at idle.
Mine seems to vary between 6-12g/s at idle.
I did capture a video a few days of it, here, where you can see the values and hear the engine. Around 3:20 and 4:12 are probably the best examples of it..
It might seem like I'm pressing on and off the throttle very quickly, but I'm not! I'm just increasing the pressure very slowly, and eventually when the revs get high enough it seems to behave better.. It kind of seems like something eventually "snaps open" with enough force/pressure is applied.

When I unplug the MAP sensor all the problems go away, and it doesn't do that "jumping and shaking" you see around 4:20 in the video, but then the car lacks any turbo power without MAP data.
Which does suggest that, at least, it's not an injector/head gasket/engine issue.

But yea, as you said, it does seem to be an air issue.
 

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WHS^

The data you are looking at would be correct if your 2.2 Turbo Diesel was
a) petrol
b) not Turbo charged

Either you have a blocked exhaust or your MAF is reading wrong. If it was intake blockage your MAP would be less than 100kpa/1bar/14.4psi

An adapter for the threaded Mr muscle hole attached to a pressure gauge (or the rubber cone type spark plug adapter on a compression gauge) would tell you about the exhaust
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Change the sensor.
Yea, I was thinking the same thing myself! I might pop off the rubber tube to the sensor tomorrow, and just make sure it's not gunked up, and if it's not I think I'll throw a new sensor on it..
I do hate just randomly throwing parts at the car, but sometimes it's the best way to rule out a problem if you're not some genius mechanic with a garage full of specialised tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
WHS^

The data you are looking at would be correct if your 2.2 Turbo Diesel was
a) petrol
b) not Turbo charged

Either you have a blocked exhaust or your MAF is reading wrong. If it was intake blockage your MAP would be less than 100kpa/1bar/14.4psi

An adapter for the threaded Mr muscle hole attached to a pressure gauge (or the rubber cone type spark plug adapter on a compression gauge) would tell you about the exhaust
Ah right, thanks.
The thing is though, I don't trust the values in the iCarsoft device, at all.
I mean, it's fine to see the values changing, but there are heaps of wrong values in it.
For example the gear ratio shows as 65535 (which is likely an integer overflow error), the barometric pressure is 150kPa, my milage shows up as 85,000,000km (likely a conversion error since it's 85,000km), one of my module voltages is 44.1V, my transmission oil temp reads -40°C (which is likely a conversion error from Fahrenheit to Celsius), (and it reads 17,000°C on the next line, and 0 somewhere else) etc.

Product World Rectangle Line Font


I think it's likely that the guys writing the software for this probably didn't always remember to "carry the 1", since it's unlikely that there's so many things wrong with my car..
 

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The thing is though, I don't trust the values in the iCarsoft device, at all.
I mean, it's fine to see the values changing, but there are heaps of wrong values in it.

I think it's likely that the guys writing the software for this probably didn't always remember to "carry the 1", since it's unlikely that there's so many things wrong with my car..
I hope iCarsoft aren't involved in writing software for autonomous car control systems!
 

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Just go in OBD2 then, more basic data but usually accurate.
 
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