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code P1633

11K views 13 replies 3 participants last post by  cosworth  
#1 ·
Code P1633 comes up as KAM voltage too low. Apparently when the brain detects less than 9v it throws this code.

Battery has been greased up with dielectric grease as well as the brain connectors under the pollen filter. Everything is dry and clean.

Battery terminals read 13.7v when idling.

Stumped on this one. I'm usually pretty good at electric faults but I can;t determine this one. Since the voltage is spot on I don't suspect the alternator. Help? 2000 S 4.0 sport.
 
#2 ·
Possibly a battery on the way out, how old is it? 4 years is normal for a standard Jag spec battery.
KAM is Keep Alive Memory voltage it seems! Not heard or this WRT to Jags but had a search for you and found this -

Your code is caused by a lack of good connectivity between the battery and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) ... or a failing PCM (Ouch!).

1. Check to make sure the battery cables are not corroded and tightly fastened ... both ends.
2. Look around the alternator for corroded/loose terminals.

It goes on to advise using "electolube" spray on the PCM connections.
 
#3 ·
Yeah I got the connectivity covered. The dieletric grease is smothered on.

The battery is of an unknown age. Bought the car a year ago and the voltage seems fine. Whomever installed it did not mark the little calendar on top of it. Dummy. Alternator it's not since it will chuck this code out with KOEO (key on engine off).

A battery is a $130 gamble but at this point I might take it. Multimeter says it's fine. I think the Jag electrics could be pretty fussy about the battery though.

I did have the alternator off in the spring to do the cam tensioners, but it's been doing this since may sporadically and now it's solid with the code reader unable to clear the code. A degrading battery fits the bill, but the voltage indicates otherwise.

Maybe I'll try Wal-Mart, buy a battery and if it's not the problem take it back and say it doesn't fit my car. Most places don't take battery returns though. Not cheap, I just don't see the value in having a perfectly good battery laying there.
 
#6 ·
Where is the Keep Alive Memory battery ?

Is this the alarm Nicad, or the main ECU CMOS back-up as with computer mother boards etc ?

There is potential for this fault to hit all of us, so we could do with knowing where the battery is.
Is this the battery responsible for keeping the memory alive to store error codes etc. ?
Probably a common feature across the Jaguar range, and maybe someone who has done some module strip-checking might know.

Cheers .......... Graham.
 
#9 ·
The brain is behind the glove box. Appears to be a real bugger to get out. Removed the connectors requires removal of the wipers, the wiper cowl the the pollen filter/holder/trumpet then the 3 connectors are uncovered.

Now as far as I know, the battery is the actual main battery for KAM. I've never heard of a small ECU battery fitted like on a motherboard. Ever.
 
#10 ·
Hi cosworth,

Thanks. Info now stored in my read only memory - until I lose my own connections that is (LOL).

From where you say this is, it would be worth checking to make sure everything is dry (hair drier hose) and connectors properly seated/ sealed behind there.

Also, these cars forget what they 'learn' about gearshifting when the battery is disconnected, so as you ask, does the PCM actaully have a battery ?

It is likely to have a programmable memory IC though, where internal charge retention can sometimes fail (rare), but other problems would be likely to arise if that happened and that would require IC or control unit replacement.

Did you try dissing the main battery for a while ?

Cheers ......... Graham.
 
#12 ·
Well I tried a brand new battery. Still the code persists.

Interesting though, the new battery I guess was sitting on a shelf for some time. It was reading 10.3 volts. So I drove around a bit. If you turned off the engine for say 10 seconds then did a KOEO test the code would clear. KOER test, the code came back right away. After I charged it up to 12.5v after a 20 minute drive, the code would not clear at all (KOEO or KOER) and the idling voltage was the same at 13.7. that was weird.

At this point I think the PCM is dead. NOT a cheap fix.