Warning. You can't just replace the instrument cluster. It is a critical part of the security system. Once you replace it you will get the message saying 'SECURITY FAILED'. The replacement cluster MUST be re-programmed using IDS/SDD and a Mongoose-type cable. May be worth investing in a decent code reader such as an iCarsoft to try and work out what's happening. I would guess the fault lies in the level sensor and nothing to do with the instrument cluster. A case of 'don't blame the messenger'.

https://www.xtype.uk/projects/5/retrofit-message-centre

 

Warning. You can't just replace the instrument cluster. It is a critical part of the security system. Once you replace it you will get the message saying 'SECURITY FAILED'. The replacement cluster MUST be re-programmed using IDS/SDD and a Mongoose-type cable. May be worth investing in a decent code reader such as an iCarsoft.

That's good information thanks.

 

The issue you have is that a cheap OBD reader is not going to connect to the IC (instrument Cluster) module to read a code from it or read many codes from the ECU.
As others have said an IC replacement is a whole world of pain. 20- 160 Ohms is spec for sender - that 3 ohms might be enough to set the error message.
Be aware there is no in-tank pump on a 2.0D
You can check the sender resistance at the IC. The connectors at the IC are IP10-9 Black, and IP10-7 White/Blue, IP10 is a 26way White connector
The attached pdf might also be of use.

I note that you said that the gauge seems to be working - I would be very surprised if a fuel sender error prevents cranking - unless it thinks it might be empty and it will not start to prevent damage to the fuel pump. Though I think that message is possibly a symptom not a cause.

Manual or Auto - If auto try again in N.
Have you tried the inertia switch

 

It's the 5-speed manual.

Yes, my old scanner is the cheapest of them all, I don't expect it to read all codes. I will look into getting something a bit newer.

The sender test was done at the IC plug IP10. I would have expected 163 Ohm to be within spec given I'm testing at the IC end as well as margin of error in my DMM. To be sure I've just done a full ETM/IDS test using the document you attached (thanks for that!). Fuel system 1 test show "F1 235", and fuel system 3 test shows "FP1 254". Both checkout and consistent with a full tank. Same for the fuel gauge test "FTP 254".

One thing that did catch my attention is test 49 "Vehicle inertia switch" = VIS G, which indicates "switch tripped (ground). I had already check this, I've presses it down as hard as I can. A faulty switch perhaps? Would a tripped switch produce my symptoms, ie no cranking?

 

Looking at the diagram it would appear that you would get ignition lights but no engine crank or ECU. The switch is normally closed and open/ground when tripped, but also when tripped it signals the IC module as well. Easy enough to test, loose plug would have the same effect. Have to say the way it is drawn on the diagram in 2 seperate places with up/down reversed is really confusing!

EDIT
Looking at it further I think it is crank no start on a diesel and no crank on a petrol. Should have voltage on one side of the switch .

 

It looks like the inertia switch is fine. I'm getting 12V on IP132-1 and through to IP132-3. It's also clicking the relay in the power distribution fuse box (PDFB) in key position 2. I've also confirmed I have 12V going to pin JB205-7 on the PDFB however this is not activating the Starter relay. The only thing stopping the starter relay from switching is pin JB206-8 that goes direct to the engine control module DL1-021, it's marked as Start Engine Output (switches to ground I guess). That's where I'm at right now.

 

Are you getting 12v on dl1-021 when in cranking position?

 

I have not poked around the ECM yet. Surely DL1-021 would be to ground as the other side is +12V from the ignition switch.

 

Intermittent messages, no crank. Have you checked the main cables from the battery? There is a history of these breaking down over time and giving the faults you describe.
Have you also checked the starter motor?

 

It will be if the ECU is commanding it to ground, if it is open it will (should) be 12v from the ignition switch - the resistance in the relay coil only exists when current flows else it's just a wire.
Can't get to the starter relay as it is solid state. But check for 12v on F34 at crank though to see if the relay is operating.

If it is, measure voltage at battery as you crank to see if the battery can supply juice. Then put your meter on battery -ve and on the engine, attempt to crank and see if you have a voltage drop. Same with battery +ve and the +ve feed at the starter.

 

It will be if the ECU is commanding it to ground, if it is open it will (should) be 12v from the ignition switch - the resistance in the relay coil only exists when current flows else it's just a wire.

Yes, I didn't think about it that way. I've got 12V either side of the coil, that's JB205-7 and JB206-8. I haven't probed the ECU side. No power getting to fuse F34 when cranking confirming the starter relay is not switching.

I think I'm going to have to see if the local garage can come out and plug in their diagnostic gear. I think there must be something telling the ECU to not switch the starter relay, I'm just clueless as to what that would be. I'm still thinking the instrument cluster, there is an OK to start signal sent from it.

Me taking the back off the cluster wouldn't have kill it would it?

 

Would not have thought so, cant hurt to check powers and grounds though.

 

Update: Put on a flatbed yesterday and taken to the local garage. They think it's an immobiliser or cluster fault. They've said they don't have gear to program the car and are returning if free of charge (which is nice). Called Marshalls Jaguar and they won't touch it due to it's age. They've recommended Jagutek in Ely.

 

I wonder if its worth checking the wiring under the radiator? There have been problems posted on here where various errors have occurred culminating in non cranking, and was found to be caused by corroded canbus wiring in the harness under the radiator. I guess with all the salt on the roads this could be a possibility?

EG:

https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads.../threads/jaguar-x-type-classic-d-will-not-start-none-cranking.76723/post-716134

https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads...ds/2-0d-wont-turn-over-and-red-light-showing-for-coolant-temp.39497/post-395776

https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads...-0-d-sport-saloon-no-crank-and-no-start-code-24-can-bus-fault.93077/post-891139

 

Update2: Car booked into JaguTek in Ely for the 24th Feb. The guy on the phone seemed to know has onions and asked relevant questions. He asked about the DSC LED behind the gear stick, which is also the immobiliser indicator apparently. He said it's likely a wiring or immobiliser issue so you may be right Jimbo. I did find this info PATS Diagnostic Flowchart
Which when followed shows I have immobiliser error 24. The page only goes up to 23 but google seems to indicate 24 is a CAN fault.

I'll keep poking to see if I can get any further but progress is being made. The thing is I'm relatively handy with the greasy bits but car electrics is rather over my head. I'm always worried about probing the wrong bit and frying things. The fact it's -4 also makes me reluctant to start any work tearing into the car even more.

 

Update3: Jagutek have called today to say the problem was indeed a broken CAN bus wire under the radiator. They said this might just fix the issue with the message centre but as it's very intermittent, only time will tell. So a happy ending, saved from the scrapheap for a few more years hopefully.

 

Thanks for updating us. I have not come across that problem before but useful to know.
Should have been relatively easy to find with a decent scan tool as you will get U codes from any module expecting to get comms down that CAN line. - Easy to find the issue - the actual broken wire not so easy !