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Hi all, wanting any help/advice on this matter which I am sure has been covered many times!
I have recently changed both the lower control arms which had been suggested was the problem and guess what NO. So the wild goose chase continues, I have just ordered two good quality rear droplinks to see if this stops the dreaded knocking. While carrying this out are there any little bits of information/mods/witches potions that members may think of being useful to implement while replacing the droplinks.
Many Thanks in advance :)
 

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I too have suffered from this in the past; the main culprits tend to be the control arms, the ARB droplinks and/or bushes, the handbrake cable knocking where it bends under the rear doors (really) or the bush at the top of the rear shock absorber. Hope that helps.
 

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I have just update another link which discusses rear shocks and a clunking. I had a clunking from the rear and decided to replace bits as it was impossible to ascertain where the noise was coming from.
Drop links, anti roll bar bushes upper and lower control arms and still had a clunking.
Last thing I did was the rear shockers and found that although the bushes and the shockers themselves were all in good order the lower shocker bolt which goes through the lower bush was very worn and had a lot of lateral movement inside the metal sleeve of the bush. So I went to my box of many parts and found two replacement bolts which fitted into the sleeves better the than the worn original bolts, greased them up with copper grease and reassembled with new shockers. Result no more clunking from the rear so in my opinion the noise I had was coming from these two worn bolts in the lower bush on the shock absorbers.
 

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One quick question chaps, I will be changing my rear ARB droplinks and rubbers this coming weekend; I have 'tested' all the bolts after soaking them with PlusGas and they will all release (Hooray!). My question is, once I have the ARB off, how/what, physically is the best way to remove the drop-links, as they appear to be (originally) just turned/screwed in by hand to the ARB? Sods law will dictate that they will be seized solid. Is it a vice and turn job. Will the thread snap off in the ARB? Thanks.
 

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Yeah clamp it in a vice and screw them out.
Mine didn't snap off but they were ****** tight.
If you are concerned at any point put some heat on the joint.
 

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Mines is knocking a bit now, but just passed MOT. I was under it with the mechanic and the only signs of deterioration movement is the offside Hub carrier bush(Trailing arm to some) got the bush, just need someone with the press tool now!!
 

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I have had a knocking at the back end of mine for almost 2 years now. Changed rear shocks, trailing arms etc, no difference. Then Eureka..... Took carpet away from the front of the Sat Nav, CDC tower, to run after market parking sensor wires and what did I find. A Phone Module, not connected to anything, just sat there on top of the stack. Removed it and silence. I am still not convinced that was all it was but so far so good.
 

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Interesting story chaps; I took the ARB off yesterday, as I still have the mysterious knocking (a bit) on the passenger side. The drop links, in fairness, were perfect (and stuck solid!), so I just changed the bushes, which, again to be fair, looked OK. I went for a long drive today and the knocking has all but ceased; in effect, all I changed were pretty good bushes for better ones??? Strange but true. Straightforward job to remove the ARB (as long as all the nuts can be freed); if anyone else is thinking of doing it, my advice would be you definitely need a 15mm ring spanner and Plus Gas all the nuts the day before if you can, then again on the day you are doing the job. I used an Allen Key to hold the shaft of the bolt. I would take the drop link nuts off first, before the ARB bushes clamp nuts (and a reversal of this to refit). I guess that to get the drop links off, they would need to be in a vice and heat them up. As stated, mine were perfect so, I didn't risk snapping them off in the ARB for no good reason.
 

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Just had mine done, local indy did the job, £105 fitted, noise gone, loving it!
P.S. they called the trailing arm/hub carrier bush an “Eyelet bush” WTF!
 

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Same here have two noises, a squeak and a clunk, the clunk I was told was the (silent bloc) exhaust bush, no better as the result of a change and a loud rear spring squeak after a lower suspension arm change
Tony
 

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Same here have two noises, a squeak and a clunk, the clunk I was told was the (silent bloc) exhaust bush, no better as the result of a change and a loud rear spring squeak after a lower suspension arm change
Tony
At risk of talking to myself I found and easy solution, just run over with an almighty thump, a large rock which has fallen from a steep bank, hit it with both the front and rear RHS wheels, the rear tyre had a wall bulge and the rim was bent and now for the first time no rear noise???
Ended up with a new set of Michelin Alpin tyres in the process (I was figuring to save money by moving the rear to replace the worn front), only hassle now I need a new alloy rim, as it has a hairline crack under the bent bit
At least the Michelin tyres are so much better than the Sottozero Pirellis I had!
Tony
 
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