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Driveshaft removal

4990 Views 11 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  inditime

I tried to remove my OS driveshaft yesterday, but with no luck.

2.0D 2004

I removed the wheel, removed the hub nut, removed the track rod, and removed the bottom balljoint retaining bolt.

But I couldnt get the lower arm low enough to release the bottom balljoint from the hub assembly. I even used spring compressors to give a bit of extra height.

The How To links dont seem to work for me, so does anyone have any ideas of how to remove the lower ball from the hub assembly? I tried with a crow bar, but just cant get it out the last half an inch.
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You have a couple of options.

First, persist.
You have to jack it up high enough, support the hub up on an axle stand
(you can raise it with a jack slightly first, but replace the hub nut, hand tight first ),
remove the bolt and nut out of the lower ball joint,
then either tap the wishbone down with a block of wood or wrap a chain and bar around the wishbone and pull it down, for leverage.

Failing that, loosen the subframe that side,
there's a bolt at the front inbetween the front part of the undertray and the wheel arch liner,
and one at the back with a retaining plate around it.
Lowering the subframe will give you more room to lower too ( if that makes sense)

I've never had trouble popping that balljoint even without lowering the subframe, but it is a tight squeeze.
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Subframe lowering...

Rear Bolt and retaining plate

Front bolt
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i used a 6ft long weights bar, plenty of leverage :D
Goudy, i understand the lowering concept of the subframe, but how much can it be lowered without popping the bolts out and disaster, I guess a trolley jack under the subframe as a precaution would help.
I would try jacking the hub up first, but where can it be jacked when trying to remove the balljoint. Certainly cant jack the brake disk up, i'd need to remove the disk and calipers.
You can completely remove both bolts from one side, this will let that side of the subframe hang 2 or 3 inches lower, but you can also pry it down a little more with a bar in there.

It won't fall off as it's bolted in at the other side, it sort of springs about.
You can see I did the same thing to release the hub knuckle, the red jack handle in there to pry it down after I removed the subframe bolts that side

This is how the JTIS suggests you do the job.

You can lift the hub up by jacking under the wishbone, put a block of wood in between the jack and wishbone, don't take it up too high or compress the spring too much though, then the axle stand will fit the flange on the face of the brake disc, then remove the jack.

This is rather a ropey way to go about it though and it's not something recommended, it's more of a dodgy shortcut.
I have a couple of scars on my face from when I did something similar on my Alfa, the shaft, hub, strut, disc and caliper slipped off the stand, and the spring under tension shot the lot out and ruined my modeling career!!
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i used a 6ft long weights bar, plenty of leverage :D
You dont need the weights bar, you've got big arms ;o)
Thanks Goudy, Ill drop the subframe a little and jack the hub up very slightly with a small trolley jack under the brake disk inner shoulder, with the stud nuts up tight. I literally need an extra 10mm to get the bottom balljoint out.
Then Ill be back to find out how to get the wheel bearing out.
They are pressed in.
I found this
Wheel Bearing Question

Sounds like the bearing is fitted one way as there's a pick up for the ABS sensor on it.
Also sound like it needs pressing in with a tool so it doesn't damage it, perhaps the new could be driven in with a large socket resting on the outer shell??

Or fit a new upright with bearing already in
Thanks again Goudy, im aware of the ABS exciter in the bearing, and it goes in a certain way for the sensor to read it. I know a whole new hub would be easier, but a set of bearings is too much cheaper. I have access to a 20ton press, so ill just do bearings. When i do the rear, I will just buy the whole rear hub.
You dont need the weights bar, you've got big arms ;o)
I wish! The weights didn't do much for me, so i took the bar out of spite :D:D
Today I changed both driveshafts, it wasnt easy on the hands and knees, but once I had done the OSF the NSF was relatively easier.

Thanks Goudy for the dropping the subframe advice, worked a treat.

All buttoned up and no more bad vibration, oh its smooth again lol
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