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Absolutely! it will be something simple and probably won’t be ECU but I will have to look again at getting it tested in near future
Help please
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I’ve had very positive experience with Cartech Electronics in Cornwall when I had ecu problems on my Audi and they do Jags as well if that’s any help. Good luck!
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It was CARTECH that cloned my ECU I’m new to this forum and wasn’t sure if it is ok to name companies. Unfortunately I didn’t have a positive result my ECU wasn’t tested they don’t have the facilities. They took chip off my ECU and put it on another ECU. Unfortunately the “new to me” ECU had an internal communication fault leaving me with a multitude of additional fault codes. I do believe they are a good reputable company, but my learning experience now says have my own ECU tested and see if there is actually fault in it. Overall I lost 10 days and a couple hundred £ on ECU coming and going. Finding someone with actual testing facilitates for this ECU is a challenge I have called round a few people now.
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8,545 Posts
See post #17
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239 Posts
Sorry to hear that. I would be very interested (for future reference)if you find someone who can sort out these Jag ones. I believe there is someone on the Isle of Wight?
Ditto. Mine will need sorting at some point soon so please share your experiences and please share the company names so we know who to use and who to avoid for certain jobs.
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554 Posts
A bit left field, my old X350 regularly did the christmas tree lights on the dashboard - tried everything even a new dash ! Turned out that there is a fibre optic link behind the glovebox that can come loose , when it loses connection all the modules lose comms and all the lights come on, limp mode the lot.
ETA Found the details - Jaguar Bulletin B413-02v2 It is a bulletin made for X350 with VIN numbers: G00421 --> G25490 with multiple warning lights on dashboard, it covers Canbus errors. Hoping someone on here will be able to share a link to that TSB ?
ETA Found the details - Jaguar Bulletin B413-02v2 It is a bulletin made for X350 with VIN numbers: G00421 --> G25490 with multiple warning lights on dashboard, it covers Canbus errors. Hoping someone on here will be able to share a link to that TSB ?
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33 Posts
Guys
I think we are in the stink when it comes to getting our ECU's tested. it seems that no one actually tests them and if you are unfortunate enough to have a 3.5 then to only source for one is brand new at £1239.00 plus vat. from our friends at Jaguar. I have been searching for a second hand unit for weeks now after the clone mess from cartech so that i can get my memory chips transferred over.
Steve
I think we are in the stink when it comes to getting our ECU's tested. it seems that no one actually tests them and if you are unfortunate enough to have a 3.5 then to only source for one is brand new at £1239.00 plus vat. from our friends at Jaguar. I have been searching for a second hand unit for weeks now after the clone mess from cartech so that i can get my memory chips transferred over.
Steve
Back to basics?
I have a similar, but not identical problem which I have solved bit-by-bit. Still resolving a fuelling / hesitation issue. The problems were due to an auto-transmission workshop (ZF Pro tech no-less) letting a supposed "specialist auto-electrician" loose on my 3.5se; ending up with a replacement ECM. I am doing a write-up which I will post once I have finally cured the problems that they caused.
Amongst other things (like broken air-inlet-pipe) I suspect that some muppet had tried lubing contacts with WD40 and not a proper contact cleaner/lubricant. That took some protracted tracing, cleaning and re-lubing. I also suspect that they removed a module either without first disconnecting the battery, or not discharging the module capacitors by touching the battery cables together.
At that stage I suggest that you get a second opinion before doing anything else. If any of the communications are compromised; especially the Controller Area Network (CAN), then strange things can and do happen.
I ended up realising that the ECM was not compatible with the data stored in the Driver Door Module (DDM) and Rear Electronic Module (REM), plus clashes with the Instrument Pack a.k.a. General Electronic Module (GEM) and Transmission Control Module (TCM). I did the "configure existing module" recommendations in the SDD-suggested priority order. It is imperative that you have a really well-charged battery, as it takes a higher voltage to write to these modules than to read from them.
Please Note that this is not a recommended cure; only a way of getting some sense and data out of the car.
I have a similar, but not identical problem which I have solved bit-by-bit. Still resolving a fuelling / hesitation issue. The problems were due to an auto-transmission workshop (ZF Pro tech no-less) letting a supposed "specialist auto-electrician" loose on my 3.5se; ending up with a replacement ECM. I am doing a write-up which I will post once I have finally cured the problems that they caused.
Amongst other things (like broken air-inlet-pipe) I suspect that some muppet had tried lubing contacts with WD40 and not a proper contact cleaner/lubricant. That took some protracted tracing, cleaning and re-lubing. I also suspect that they removed a module either without first disconnecting the battery, or not discharging the module capacitors by touching the battery cables together.
- Do you have IDS/SDD & mongoose, or similar?
- Can you enter a session?
- Can you communicate with the ECM?
- Is the read-in VIN OK?
- If yes to the above, go into Dealer Options and make sure that you have the correct configuration for your VIN (build sheet or VCATS label in the boot). Then do an ignition-cycle. (Off + wait 10 seconds, the ignition on to position 2) FYI - mine had the car as LHD; which it isn't.
- Re-enter the session and clear all fault codes. Make note of any communications errors e.g. cannot communicate with REM, etc.
- Select the top symptom category i.e. Communications. Let SDD loose on reading fault codes and suggesting solutions. It will give you a priority list.
At that stage I suggest that you get a second opinion before doing anything else. If any of the communications are compromised; especially the Controller Area Network (CAN), then strange things can and do happen.
I ended up realising that the ECM was not compatible with the data stored in the Driver Door Module (DDM) and Rear Electronic Module (REM), plus clashes with the Instrument Pack a.k.a. General Electronic Module (GEM) and Transmission Control Module (TCM). I did the "configure existing module" recommendations in the SDD-suggested priority order. It is imperative that you have a really well-charged battery, as it takes a higher voltage to write to these modules than to read from them.
Please Note that this is not a recommended cure; only a way of getting some sense and data out of the car.
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Hi mark8jagman
tried the company on Isle of Wight “Avilec”phone is continually engaged I have been trying for a couple of days. However I may now have tracked down a used ECU fingers crossed.
steve
tried the company on Isle of Wight “Avilec”phone is continually engaged I have been trying for a couple of days. However I may now have tracked down a used ECU fingers crossed.
steve
Unless you do the basic SDD & pinpoint checks first I fear that you may be getting deeper into the abyss. Remember that, if you change the ECM then there is an automatic updating of other modules. That is unless you have found a way to configure a used ECM before fitting as per your original.
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The auto electricians I am using are adamant they can move my “memory” chips into the replacement ecu thus cloning it. I am at the stage I need to eliminate the ECU as the problem for sure and I simply cannot get anyone to test my original.
I know of no 100% safe way of "moving" EEPROM. There is significant risk in the operation. You also have the problem that your original EEPROM could already be corrupt, so the copies will also be corrupt. There are many ways that this can happen, one of which is power interruption when the device is being written to.
Not my favourite solution and a replacement ECM is likely a safer bet. With time & labour the costs must be on a par with a new ECM from Jaguar. All that is needed then is a WDS/SDD New ECM Session and load the factory configuration for the car relying on its VIN.
BUT! ⚠
If your problem is elsewhere, for instance in the wiring loom, you still have the same problem. Pin point tests are essential before ECM replacement or fiddling.
That was my mistake with the ZF Autobox people and their alleged "specialist electronic vehicle engineer".
They did so much to the system that it took me several SDD sessions to whittle down the number of DTC (Fault Codes) to a workable number.
Only then did a single code (P1235 = "Fuel Pump Out of Range") become apparent i.e. it was probably there all-along, but mixed up in all of the other rubbish and the "CONFIG" warnings on the dash.
A single wire between the ECM and Rear Electronic Module (REM), with a few connectors in between, at least two of which had been disturbed. 🤦♂️ That meant that the REM was not getting a fuel pulse signal from the ECM and was giving default "limp-home" fuel pressure. It has taken me months of brain-ache to suss this and I don't think that many, if any of the current auto-electricians are as up-to-speed as you or I on these old cars. Even the Jaguar Dealer when I enquired said that they would have to ask one of the "old blokes who worked on these cars" (is that ageist?)
In any case I wish you success.
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Hi Alucan
yes you are correct the fault may very well be in the wiring loom or another module however I have now pin tested and load tested pedal and throttle body wiring ECU is now not reporting any fault at all other than seat heaters out of range and sunroof fault which I don’t have. It may lie in another module or the wiring for it but why is ECU not reporting the fault. The ECU is still available but at £1200 plus vat it becomes a very expensive test. The auto electricians I have are trade friends and are not charging me for their time and are not young guys both have circa 30 years each and both separately went through all the tests coming to same conclusion. If I get the ECU cloned and I get throttle control back but other faults then yes I will plump for the big repair which will work out at around £2000 with jag programming.
steve
yes you are correct the fault may very well be in the wiring loom or another module however I have now pin tested and load tested pedal and throttle body wiring ECU is now not reporting any fault at all other than seat heaters out of range and sunroof fault which I don’t have. It may lie in another module or the wiring for it but why is ECU not reporting the fault. The ECU is still available but at £1200 plus vat it becomes a very expensive test. The auto electricians I have are trade friends and are not charging me for their time and are not young guys both have circa 30 years each and both separately went through all the tests coming to same conclusion. If I get the ECU cloned and I get throttle control back but other faults then yes I will plump for the big repair which will work out at around £2000 with jag programming.
steve
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Hi Alican
On your REM fault did the ECU flag a fault code? This is what I’m finding hard to get ma wee brain round and why we keep coming back round to ECU, no fault reporting from any other source which could be holding pedal off and that is both on SDD and launch. The original symptom of engine system failure, abs and traction all clear now. The throttle relay is now also “live” but no throttle. If I trigger a fault for instance disconnecting tps. Throttle relay drops out and strategy comes in to play, gives limp home and again fault reports.
I may very well be deep in the rabbit hole!!
Steve
On your REM fault did the ECU flag a fault code? This is what I’m finding hard to get ma wee brain round and why we keep coming back round to ECU, no fault reporting from any other source which could be holding pedal off and that is both on SDD and launch. The original symptom of engine system failure, abs and traction all clear now. The throttle relay is now also “live” but no throttle. If I trigger a fault for instance disconnecting tps. Throttle relay drops out and strategy comes in to play, gives limp home and again fault reports.
I may very well be deep in the rabbit hole!!
Steve
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33 Posts
Alucan
when you had default fuel pressure did your throttle body respond to pedal or was your car stuck at 1100 rpm?
steve
when you had default fuel pressure did your throttle body respond to pedal or was your car stuck at 1100 rpm?
steve
The fault code is logged by the REM; which controls fuel the pump. The signal should come as a pulse from the ECM and the DTC P1235 meant that the circuit was either open or short to ground.
Having cleaned the ECM plug the situation has improved significantly, but I need to clean the intermediate connections as well. The P1235 code has disappeared and the hesitation has improved, but not disappeared.
The throttle works well.
I went for as test drive with the data logger on the Fuel Rail. I may have to rethink my interpretation of "default" pressure" as the majority of the time was around 380kPa, with the occasional small dip below and also increasing to nearly 400kPa coinciding with giving the car a little "gun". The hesitation is (almost) gone. Clearly I have some more contact cleaning to do, but the patient is improving. Maybe I should turn my attention to the Fuel Pressure Sensor itself.
Has anyone used the flight recorder or iCarSoft logging on the ECM Fuel Rail Pressure on a run? What readings do you typically get?
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The throttle body on my car is driven to below idle unless I cause a fault and bring in fault strategy
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On a side note how slow is SDD
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