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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've never owned a Jaguar before. 130 other cars, but never a Jag. I did start it, and it moves back and forth. The HVAC panel came to life after a bit of playing with it. AC is cold. I have to drive 5 hours to pick it up, but for free? What could I say but yes. It's got a salvage title, looks like someone ran off the road and through a wire fence. Lots of scratches. What do I know is wrong? Needs a front bumper (already purchased) and paint touched up. Needs a good cleaning. He said there was a battery drain, so I looked up the vehicle going to sleep or not. Will look at that. Needs tires, and the big thing. There is a module missing in the trunk. Looking on Ebay, it seems people don't know what they are selling. I do have a part number 2R83-15K866-AC which could either be parking aid, or Active Damping module. I really just want to know what is missing, or a positive this is what you have. I have two plugs loose in the trunk, a blue one and a grey one. anyway, here she is.
Wheel Car Tire Automotive parking light Land vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Reading here on the forums, it appears I have the parking module. One mystery down.
 

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Have a look if your shock absorbers are green or black. Green are usually the active ones. Black passive and obviously don’t need a module.
You can also see wires going into the front shock absorbers under the bonnet.
 

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A wire poking out of the strut is also a good indicator ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will have to look when I pick it up. Isn't there a switch on the dash or something to activate it? I only took a few pics when I looked at it, and I can't remember everything about it.
 

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I will have to look when I pick it up. Isn't there a switch on the dash or something to activate it? I only took a few pics when I looked at it, and I can't remember everything about it.
It was a very rare option on anything other than the STR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks. Sorry for not knowing this marque very well.
 
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No problem we all had to learn about these cars.

Have a look at Jagrepair.com
There is a lot of useful information such as the workshop manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update time. Sorry it's been so long. It's actually an 04. Not sure differences between 03&04. I think I have fixed the battery drain. When it was running, it kept advertising boot open. I suspect the car would never go into sleep mode with this being the case. Switch was good, turns out the latch ran out of adjustment, so I had to slot it to give it more distance. Boot open is gone, so hopefully it will start in a few days to prove my theory. I could do the battery drain test, but I'm pretty busy. Tons of ABS codes, one for a wheel speed sensor (easy enough to replace) but a lot of different ones (some my scanner says look on the website). Took it for a drive, and it does 70 easy enough.
 

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Tons of ABS codes, one for a wheel speed sensor (easy enough to replace) but a lot of different ones (some my scanner says look on the website).
Make sure your battery is in good shape and charged to at least 12.5 volts. Most codes come from a weak battery.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Battery is 12.25 volts when sitting, 14.5 when charging. The list of codes includes: C1285, C1267, C1236, C1352, P3452, P3393, P1753, U2523, B2141, B1318, P3500. These codes came up when scanning the ABS system. When scanning the engine system, I only get P1000, probably since I just hooked up the battery, and haven't driven it more than 5 miles. Is there a specific loop I'm supposed to drive to set the emissions to ready? Thanks. This car rocks.
 

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A new alternator will put out nearly 15 volts during the high output phase after starting and then settle down into the low 13 volt range while in maintenance mode. Your battery is currently only approximately 60% charged:

Line Font Parallel Number Rectangle
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I was going to wait to see how the battery drain test was going to go, looks like I'll be charging the battery instead. Don't know why I was getting the P and B codes while scanning ABS though.
 

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Check your alternator output with the car warmed up too, If less than 13 Volts, the alternator is not up to the task; these cars are current hogs and your car will slowly drain the battery until spurious codes begin to appear.
 

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C1267 ABS/DSC function temporarily disabled - HF interference Supply voltages to valve solenoids or sensors out of range EEPROM read/write failure ABS/DSC module failure

C1236 Left-hand rear wheel speed sensor (WSS) signal failure - Wheel speed sensor gap too large Missing tone ring or sensor Incorrect tone ring Incorrect wheel size

C1352 - couldn't find
P3452 - couldn't find
P3393 - couldn't find
P1753 - couldn't find

U2523 CAN ECM missing - ECM CAN circuit short to B+, open circuit, short circuit to ground

C1285 Booster solenoid circuit failure Booster solenoid circuit open circuit, short circuit to GROUND Booster solenoid failure

B2141 NVM configuration failure - No or invalid vehicle configuration information received from the ECM and stored in EEPROM

B1318 Supply voltage out of range - (LOW) Battery failure, loose connections Charging system failure ABS/DSC module positive supply fault

P3500 - couldn't find

P1000 - Full Evaporative system monitor drive cycle conditions
• NOTE: These conditions must be satisfied before the test is commenced.
Make sure the fuel filler cap is correctly fitted. (minimum three clicks)
Clear the DTCs. (perform a code clear, even if no codes are present. This will reset TIDs)
Make sure the fuel tank is between one quarter and three quarters full. (adding fuel will increase vapor generation; the diagnostic will not run if the vapor concentration is too great)
Drive the vehicle for a minimum of two minutes, and until fully warm. (temperature gauge just below mid-point)
Make sure that the purge valve is operating, either by touch, sound, or using datalogger. (purge vapor management valve-duty cycle) - If the purge is not active, perform the "Drive cycle for green engine control module (ECM)" in this section.

Full Evaporative system monitor drive cycle
Drive the vehicle to a suitable road where the test can be carried out, switch off the ignition.
Leave the ignition switched off for 30 seconds.
Restart the engine, accelerate briskly to 50 miles per hour (80 Kilometres per hour) making sure that the engine speed reaches at least 3500 RPM for a minimum of five seconds.
 

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C1352 - Faulty ABS module or CAN fault (open circuit)
P3452 - Cylinder 7 Deactivation/Intake Valve Control Circuit High
P3393 - Injector 2 Short to earth
P1753 - Pressure Control Solenoid 'D'
P3500 - OBD-II Code Reserved For Future Use is defined as a Reserved For Future Use.

I would make sure the battery is full (12.6 volt) and then clear the codes and take it for a drive and then read the codes again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for that lengthy write up. I thought there was some sort of drive cycle that needed to be performed. P3452 is probably a ghost code, since I have a V6. Just my thought.
 
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