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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had some fun with lugnuts the other day. When I purchased my car a few months back, I had my rims refinished. When they put the rims back on, they over torqued the lugnuts on one of the rims and actually rounded off two of them I had to fight to get the other three off but had no chance with the other two. I knew I would have to replace at least those two so I ordered a new set. I took it to the local tire place and he didn't want to mess with it. He said there was a good chance he would scar up the rim taking it off and didn't want to try.

So I bought a set of bolt extractors. I tapped on the the 19 socket and used a half inch breaker bar with a 3/8 adapter. And guess what? The adapter snapped. It was very tight. Under warranty, I had it replaced and guess what? Snapped again. I then ordered a Gearwrench 19 3/4 bolt extractor that is 3 1/4 inch long with a nut fitting on the end. I then used my 18 inch crescent wrench(weighs a half a ton). I pounded on the socket and with a mighty force, the lugnut came loose. I then repeated that with the second lugnut and same result. I figured that wrench was not going to fail and Gearwrench socket certainly was not going to fail (i don't have an airgun). I figured the worst thing that would happen is the outer cap would get ripped off exposing the under nut. If that happened, I would deal with it but I guess I got lucky. I have seen videos of mechanics drilling out the studs which would take hours. If this happens to you in the future, this procedure will work. The socket stuck out far enough that the rim was not in danger.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It's complicated but I'm in Austin and they are in Houston. Not worth 6 hours of my time. Also, I purchased something similar to what is described above but not OEM. Works for me.
 

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Something like this will ease your pain.
Far cheaper places that the Gay of E. No need to ask how I know, having just bought 21 myself....
 

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A couple of things we all need to be aware of...


This type of wheel nut should not have impact guns - windy ones or battery ones - used on them, as it tends to pull the chrome caps off the actual nut. On some models, JLR do actually state hand tools only for the wheel nuts.

No garage should ever do up wheel nuts/bolts on any car with a windy.

As consumers, we should always loosen and retorque in the garage's carpark, unless we saw them use a torque wrench, and that the wrench moved before clicking.

In rust inducing climates, like Northern Europe, consider replacing the nuts every 3 or 4 years, and every couple of months try a 19mm socket on them, and if it feels it doesn't want to go on, replace it. This is because the nut underneath the chrome cap has rusted and started to swell.

If you can't get a 19mm socket on, use a 3/4" socket, which is between a 19 and 20mm.

Try not to use a mallet or hammer to knock a socket on, as this too can loosen the cap from the nut underneath. Sometimes its unavoidable, so judgement needed.


And just for the OP - try not to use any of those socket drive adapters on larger bolts, even the best adapters have a weak point where the size changes. Its usually better to buy a breaker bar with the right size drive on it, although it will be double the cost.


Hope that helps people not get unto this situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Good information Boy, Thanks.
I still have one rim I haven't touched. I have a feeling I am going to have the same situation. My breaker bar is a 1/2 inch but the socket was 3/8. I need to find a 19mm deep socket that takes a 1/2 inch. With a deep socket, it moves the breaker bar further from the rim to prevent scarring from when I am jumping up and down on that bar trying to break it free. That shoud do the trick.
 

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I had a situation where when I was replacing my front brake pads, I could not shift one of the lug nuts for love nor money. It was the first time trying to remove the wheel since buying the car so whoever had refitted the wheel for the previous owner had clearly over-tightened it. I took it to a tyre place and they tried to move it using a 6 foot scaffold pole as a breaker bar - the result was they snapped the nut leaving about 1/2" on the stud. They managed to drill off the remaining bit in the end with a Dremel. But a lesson learned - as said by @TheBoy - these nuts should never be tightened with a windy gun. The local tyre place I use now only use a torque wrench.
 

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Good forward planning/thinking Frie, I crushed one of my centre caps whilst gleefully using my nice new torque wrench and not paying attention last year.. :rolleyes:
 

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Can anyone show me, how the dreaded OEM lug nuts look like? Do the Toyota/aftermarket nuts look different? I know next to nothing about my vehicle history. So maybe I still have the bad nuts on?
 

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First 2 pictures of this thread,
 
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Can anyone show me, how the dreaded OEM lug nuts look like? Do the Toyota/aftermarket nuts look different? I know next to nothing about my vehicle history. So maybe I still have the bad nuts on?
Best just change them anyway, far cheaper than taking it to a garage to remove a broken one!
 

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Can anyone show me, how the dreaded OEM lug nuts look like? Do the Toyota/aftermarket nuts look different? I know next to nothing about my vehicle history. So maybe I still have the bad nuts on?
Get you normal 19mm socket/wrench and check it fits easily over all wheel nuts. Remove and replace the ones where the socket doesn't fit without having to force it on.
 
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