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2010 XJ 3.0d Portfolio (SWB)
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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
I found an eBay seller that specialises in jacking pads so I've just ordered a variety. I've got some Laser 3" low profile ramps which will go a long way towards a decent starting height and means I can worry less about the chassis twist issue. It also means that I can get my bottle jack in (forgot I had that) with the aforementioned pad. Hopefully that'll give me room for axle stands.

I'd go for the subframe option but it's covered in plastic (albeit battered!) and I need to remove the undertray to get the banana arms off.

This is more complicated than it needs to be!
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
My son's hockey match got cancelled due to weather, so I had a rare Saturday afternoon to myself to tick some things off the list.

First up, and my priority, was the air box. Here's what I'm dealing with:




I stuck it back together with this:


It seemed to stick well, though was slightly tacky still when I reinstalled it so I won't know for sure until it's fully cured.

On reinstall, I also took steps to prevent it breaking again. It looks like a previous owner tried the quick approach to air filter replacement where you just lift the outer edge of the air box lid. The stress broke the pipework.

The problem is that you need to lift the front edge really high to disengage the rear clips. What I've done is file down the clips. I reckon I took 2 or 3mm off the bottom of the two outer clips. You now have to only lift the front of the lid but about an inch, then it'll slide off the clips with a little wiggle, and provide easy access to the filter.

Here's where I filed it. Hopefully you can see what I mean.


Here's new vs old air filter. Grim.


I replaced the cabin filter too, but don't have pics. Full service with oil/oil filter/fuel filter to come once I've bought oil and an extraction pump.

The final job was the n/s front speaker. It sounded awful at higher volumes, like it was blown. I've seen people remove it and simply push the rear cap back in. Sadly, my cap had separated completely and was lying in the door in many pieces.

15 mins of design and 3d printing time later, I had a new cap that I glued in place. This is upside down, but you get the idea.



It now sounds fantastic up to well over 40 on the volume indicator. That's plenty loud enough for me.

I also replaced some of the random flickering bulbs (rear footwell and licence plate). Somebody clearly had a penchant for cheap LEDs. Filament bulbs back in and no more flicker.

Overall, a good, productive afternoon. I Hope everyone else's was as good.
 

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It now sounds fantastic up to well over 40 on the volume indicator. That's plenty loud enough for me.
That's about 20 more than my ears can stand!
 

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My son's hockey match got cancelled due to weather, so I had a rare Saturday afternoon to myself to tick some things off the list.

First up, and my priority, was the air box. Here's what I'm dealing with:




I stuck it back together with this:


It seemed to stick well, though was slightly tacky still when I reinstalled it so I won't know for sure until it's fully cured.

On reinstall, I also took steps to prevent it breaking again. It looks like a previous owner tried the quick approach to air filter replacement where you just lift the outer edge of the air box lid. The stress broke the pipework.

The problem is that you need to lift the front edge really high to disengage the rear clips. What I've done is file down the clips. I reckon I took 2 or 3mm off the bottom of the two outer clips. You now have to only lift the front of the lid but about an inch, then it'll slide off the clips with a little wiggle, and provide easy access to the filter.

Here's where I filed it. Hopefully you can see what I mean.


Here's new vs old air filter. Grim.


I replaced the cabin filter too, but don't have pics. Full service with oil/oil filter/fuel filter to come once I've bought oil and an extraction pump.

The final job was the n/s front speaker. It sounded awful at higher volumes, like it was blown. I've seen people remove it and simply push the rear cap back in. Sadly, my cap had separated completely and was lying in the door in many pieces.

15 mins of design and 3d printing time later, I had a new cap that I glued in place. This is upside down, but you get the idea.



It now sounds fantastic up to well over 40 on the volume indicator. That's plenty loud enough for me.

I also replaced some of the random flickering bulbs (rear footwell and licence plate). Somebody clearly had a penchant for cheap LEDs. Filament bulbs back in and no more flicker.

Overall, a good, productive afternoon. I Hope everyone else's was as good.
Nice fix right there, good productive day.

The air filter.....That's been in there a while and then some, does make you wonder what else they've skimped on, but looks like she's in good hands now

Jim
 

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in regards the LEDs, I prefer them to filament bulbs. The light is much cleaner and not so 70’s yellow. I agree though the cheap ones are a false economy.
 

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in regards the LEDs, I prefer them to filament bulbs. The light is much cleaner and not so 70’s yellow. I agree though the cheap ones are a false economy.
100% the difference is like night n day, the puddle lights, interior courtesy lights all make a massive difference and brings it right up to date

Jim
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
A partial win and a weird issue today.

Got a new touchscreen to replace the old really slow one. This one is much quicker but still has the old UI so I may have got a changeover year one. I'll do another thread on that - would be good to canvas opinion.

The weird issue is TPMS related. Since I got the car I've always had an error on startup saying low spare tyre pressure. My spare doesn't have a TPMS sensor so I know something is up! Today I didn't get that message, so perhaps it somehow fixed itself? After a few miles I then got a TPMS system fault message that wouldn't clear. Dammit. It then cleared itself a few miles later.

Need to get a code reader I reckon, and possibly get the battery tested too. It's not an OE part so no date code sadly (yes, I've looked).
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
New banana arms went on this morning. Was a surprisingly easy job. I removed the arch liners to get access, and then it really was a case of removing two bolts either side. The old bushes weren't as bad as I expected, but they were definitely split in places.

The death wobble when braking from speed appears to be fixed. Well, it didn't do it today at 60mph. Will try and get on faster roads tomorrow to confirm. Feels a bit more solid and less floaty now anyway. It still drives straight too. I marked the eccentric washers do they went back in the same place. Will get it aligned soon for piece of mind though.

The new arms were interesting. I went for Lemforder. They were identical to the OEM Jag arms, even down to little details in the castings, apart from the very obvious grinder marks where the Jag logo was supposed to be!
 

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New banana arms went on this morning. Was a surprisingly easy job. I removed the arch liners to get access, and then it really was a case of removing two bolts either side. The old bushes weren't as bad as I expected, but they were definitely split in places.

The death wobble when braking from speed appears to be fixed. Well, it didn't do it today at 60mph. Will try and get on faster roads tomorrow to confirm. Feels a bit more solid and less floaty now anyway. It still drives straight too. I marked the eccentric washers do they went back in the same place. Will get it aligned soon for piece of mind though.

The new arms were interesting. I went for Lemforder. They were identical to the OEM Jag arms, even down to little details in the castings, apart from the very obvious grinder marks where the Jag logo was supposed to be!
Result there Matt, don't doubt she's behaving much better

As you say, an alignment for peace of mind is the way to go

Jim
 

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Yes, I do mean the forward lower arms. Good to know someone has experience of them.

I've seen the power flex video on installing them. They're the first poly bushes I've seen that need a press to fit!

Did you do anything with the smaller outer ones or just changed the big inner bushes?
Apologies, I'd missed this. Yes, I just did the big ones, as that was what was failed on mine. My intention was to replace each bush (in pairs, obviously) with polys as they fail, but only the large ones have failed in my ownership (well, technically, they were shot when I got it).

As for jacking points, I use the official jacking points, but at the front, use the subframe for the stands. I also use a small block of wood between the stand and the subframe, to prevent it deforming. I also have to use a block between the jack and the jacking point, as the saddle of my jack is too big to fit the recess.

I'm sure I don't need to tell you never, ever, ever go even slightly under a car only supported by a hydraulic jack - a wheel under the sill actually does very little if it all goes wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Apologies, I'd missed this. Yes, I just did the big ones, as that was what was failed on mine. My intention was to replace each bush (in pairs, obviously) with polys as they fail, but only the large ones have failed in my ownership (well, technically, they were shot when I got it).

As for jacking points, I use the official jacking points, but at the front, use the subframe for the stands. I also use a small block of wood between the stand and the subframe, to prevent it deforming. I also have to use a block between the jack and the jacking point, as the saddle of my jack is too big to fit the recess.

I'm sure I don't need to tell you never, ever, ever go even slightly under a car only supported by a hydraulic jack - a wheel under the sill actually does very little if it all goes wrong.
No worries. My outers were fine too so I could have got away with polybushing it.

Don't worry I didn't go underneath without stands. I'm stupid, but not quite to that level. That was all about just having a look before I did anything.

When I did the job I used my low ramps to get some jack clearance, then using the bottle jack meant I could get stands in factory locations. Minor faff but not too bad. The jack/stand pads were from ebay and highly recommended.

 

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2 jacks are recommended on the XJ, as JLR warn not to lift any corner of the car on its own. I guess they are concerned about twist, though never found any additional info from them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
2 jacks are recommended on the XJ, as JLR warn not to lift any corner of the car on its own. I guess they are concerned about twist, though never found any additional info from them.
Yeah I read that too, though I saw it mentioned a few times that lifting it just high enough to get a wheel off is likely OK. That's another benefit of the ramps - it's already at axle stand height.

I've still got the arms at the moment. It's tempting, but I don't think I've ever kept a car more than 2 or 3 years* so I doubt i'll wear these out!

* The exception being my VW T5. I'll keep that thing until it dies, or until Northampton gets it's own ULEZ and I'm priced out of it.
 

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I think the whole issue with jacking up one side, circles around the air suspension, which tries to correct the wheel height when you do not disconnect it. Who does this, when he just wants to remove a wheel? No one I would say.
If you return the car to normal, it might take a while until the car levels itself out. I seriously doubt you can damage the chassis by jacking it up. Unless you do stupid things, like open/close doors or sunroof in the twisted state.
 

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I think the whole issue with jacking up one side, circles around the air suspension, which tries to correct the wheel height when you do not disconnect it. Who does this, when he just wants to remove a wheel? No one I would say.
If you return the car to normal, it might take a while until the car levels itself out. I seriously doubt you can damage the chassis by jacking it up. Unless you do stupid things, like open/close doors or sunroof in the twisted state.
Doubt its related, else JLR would state some procedure to disable the self levelling as part of the jacking routine.

Clearly, just from the sunroof issues, the x351 is prone to monocoque flex.
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Oil change completed this morning. So very easy thanks to the suction tube. I used this manual vacuum pump from Amazon. Two or three pumps to create a vacuum then it just does the rest without me having to be involved. I occasionally went back and added a pump or two to keep it going. Took about 10 mins to drain the lot.




Next up was the fuel filter. Not a bad job, but difficult to do without covering everything in diesel. I made sure I topped up the new filter before fitting to save the extra cranking time. I didn't have anything resembling a small enough funnel so just took my time and still made a mess!

Finally gave it a little lift on the front courtesy of some red spray paint. I love little details like this.

 
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