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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On finally investigating the clunk sound from my rear (Yes, I've heard the jokes), I'm fairly sure one of the shocks is jiggered. The oily mess is the giveaway I spotted.

It's November so the cost vs temperature vs length of time cursing graph indicates it's a local indy garage job.

I had a quick look on one of the parts sites, thought I might save a few pennies supplying the part for them to fit. I'll be damned if I can work out which one does the job though. The current one is black and says "Sudan" on it. How do garages source the right one?
 

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The rear shocks are not that difficult to change. Two bolts at the top and one at the bottom. You could save more by doing it yourself if you have the tools.
Blistein are the OE quality as mentioned above.

Roger
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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That looks about right but remember these should be changed in pairs.

Roger
 

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Just replaced my rears shocks as I too had a clunking and I thought the bushes had either gone or the shockers themselves. Easy job to do yourself as long as the bolts have not rusted in as happened to some guy on You Tube with an X Type. My nuts and bolts came undone easily enough and when I compared the shockers by compressing them both new against old there was no difference. The rubber bushes were in good order but what I did find was the lower bolt which has the captive nut on was badly worn on the shaft and the clunking noise was the shaft of the bolt rattling around in the metal sleeve in the rubber bush. In my bag of many parts I had two replacement bolts where the shaft was the same size as the internal diameter of the bush so I fitted these with the new shockers as I had them to fit. Lots of copper grease to ease any future disassembly and no more clunking. At least not from the back. Having cured the noise from the back there is definately a knocking coming from the front now. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
 

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Knocking from the back, or front can both be caused by bad shocks. Also, the "press test" does not reliably indicate shock state; the shocks have dynamic variable valve and some other internals that get worn with time. So while the shock can get in and out just fine, it will perform badly.

The other thing you should look for klonking sounds, apart from bad shocks (or bad shock bush on the rear):

REAR:
roll bar bushes - these worn out commonly
front lower control arm - also wears out commonly, due to position
anti roll-bar connecting joints gets bad

FRONT:
bad shocks (something gets loose inside, dont ask me what)
worn anti-roll bad connecting joints - this one is fairly common! - You should get heavy duty ones, there is a German company that makes them, don't remember the name this moment

Also on front, if you r steering wheel rack gets worn, it can clonk. Same for the airbag on the steering wheel on older models.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Right, rear shockers replaced today. £146 for the shockers I supplied, £50 cash contribution to the garage's Christmas night out fund.

Still need to go for a decent drive to see if the clunking has stopped, but the bounciness and roll has definitely diminished.
 

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On the rear you should also check the roll bar bushes and lower front control arm. Both are known that they go bad. I replaced bushes 2x in 75000 km, and control arms once (upgraded with polyurethane bushes).
 
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