Rear Wheel Groan Around Corner

as said in some posts about noises, these are hard to diagnose by description. but i would take a gamble on possibly a wheel bearing as these can drone under normal driving. i could be wrong but it might be worth a look, not sure as to how to check a wheel bearing as its one thing ive never had to do myself. hope this helps

There's plenty down there to give you agro so you need to work through all the usual suspects one by one.

A quick jack up and a spin of the wheel, often a rough wheel bearing can be felt/heard.
While it's up on the jack, try pulling or rocking the wheel, hold as 12 and 6 oclock, the 3 and 9, jack up and axle stand as you really have to pull about to see if there's play.

There's a well known suspect just front of the rear hub, play can sometimes be felt when tugging the wheel, but not always.
Say hello to Mr floppy arm!
CONTROL ARM
The inner bush usually goes and the back end can creak/groan. It'll alter the toe as well and fook your rear tyres.
http://www.jaguarforum.co.uk/f26/back-end-tyre-trouble-45793.html
They aren't too expensive and are fairly easy to remove and fit, so it's often worth changing them blindly in hope it sorts the trouble, they are more a "when" than "if" part, if you get my drift.

Mine did this... is it worse when cornering one way, and it goes away when cornering the other?

Mine started off as a rumble/groan which was there lilghtly all the time but significantly worse on right hand corners. Got a lot worse over 4 months...

replaced it here

It can be symptomatic of a binding brake caliper - a not infrequent problem with many marques. The pads don't properly retract from the disc and will bind and moan as described. The fact that it happens more after braking suggests this as a good likelihood.

Thanks guys for your excellent responses. Looks like I am going to be busy this weekend!

One question - if I *do* have to replace the hub, will I need a new set of wheel nuts or will the existing ones be ok?

Wheel nuts will be ok, but you'll need to replace the big drive nut.

http://www.jaguarforum.co.uk/f26/2-5-awd-estate-read-hub-assembly-45929.html

ck_uk said:

Thanks guys for your excellent responses. Looks like I am going to be busy this weekend!

One question - if I *do* have to replace the hub, will I need a new set of wheel nuts or will the existing ones be ok?

Click to expand...

Goudy's aleady linked to my other thread, but no - the wheel nuts are OK. What you *will* need are the 4 M10x30 torx bolts. The Ford ones are better than the original Jag (again, see the other thread for photos) so I'd check if the Jag ones have been modified before you get them.

Just mind your flexi hose...

I'd agree with motco above on Brake binding issue.

I saw exactly the symptoms you describe on an X-Type. I removed pads and thoroughly cleaned and greased all contact points, cleaned and greased guidepins and lubricated/exercised handbrake mechanism. Noise gone. As part of the diagnosis I was able to replicate the noise by gently rocking the car back and forward with a wheel brace on a front wheel nut.

Your constant drone noise may be a different problem and could well be a bearing as others have said.

My last car, a Mk3 Mondeo, had a binding rear caliper and apart from handbrake problems, it too exhibited this cornering moan. The pad is almost binding but when the wheel is subject to side forces from cornering, the disc is tilted minutely and the pad drags on the disc like a bow on a violin string - and it moans! I wouldn't put money on it, but I'll be smug when you find it's that!

Hi folks

I had the car jacked up yesterday and had a good poke around underneath, control arms and bushes 'looked ok' but what I did do was perform the old 3 o'clock/12 o'clock tug about with the wheel. Nothing going on at 3 but when I hold the 12 o'clock position firmly with my right hand then grab the 6 with my left and pull towards me, the wheel moves visibly, play is about 1cm i guess. What I can't tell is whether this is a worn hub OR control arm/bush issue causing this. Haven't tried repeating process for the other side yet to compare due to time.

I did then remove the wheel and look at the brakes (wheel moves quite freely with handbrake off, very slight rubbing can be heard tho). But the disc is quite deeply scored near the outer edge so is this a clue as to whether the cause is hub issue or not?

I will of course be fitting new discs and pads but don't know whether to shell out for a new hub or a new control arm. Or both...

If the wheel moves only at one position as you describe, it is unlikely to be the wheel bearing/hub, but it could be flexure in a suspension part, and it might yet be perfectly acceptable movement. When you change the pads pay attention to the handbrake operating lever; see it it can be operated with a pair of heavy pliers once you have disconnected the cable. It should move freely against the return spring and 'fly' back, not slowly return.