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Regeneration DPF replacement Terraclean

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Regeneration DPF replacement Terraclean - but not in that order. In upshot I am having regeneration issues and would like advice and help. Sorry for the long post.

First the rules: 2.2 D Auto Euro IV DPF 09 facelift model estate (not used for towing). I got it a year old from a mainstream Jag dealer and have had it for the past 8 years.

This is a great car with a great drive and it has only let me down once when the EGR valve failed on a cold and frosty morning. "Jaguar Assist" came out, listened as the engine started and then died within 10 seconds, and immediately diagnosed an EGR issue. He completely blanked off the EGR to get me going and I booked it into the dealers for a replacement EGR under warranty.

In the 8 years I have run the car I have often noticed that it does a regeneration at the most inconvenient moment, often as I come up the exit ramp from a motorway or park up on the drive. As others have noticed:
Problem is that there is nothing on the X Type to tell you if it is doing a regeneration in general driving.
There is no indicator light on the dash but there is this:
..the only way I know is that the revs rise at idle and the oil temperature rises from 90C to 100C...The fans speed up like mad and there is a burning smell. I have to try and make sure I don't then switch the engine off. It's only when driving down the motorway you can't detect it except by checking the oil temperature and it happens every 600 to 800 miles. I'm glad that my X-Type doesn't have it.
and this:
...I always know when my auto is doing a regen as the idle revs rise and the auto snatches as a result. I can also hear the higher revs when idling. ...My car now does a regen quite often immediately following a long motorway run which is counterintuitive but that's the Jag DPF for you.
After a handful of these regenerations (which I allow to complete) the car throws a service message at me. Considered opinion is that the regenerations cause diesel to seep into the oil sump and eventually the car decides its time to change the contaminated oil. This used to happen about every 5k miles. As I was on 10K annually this meant the the yearly main service and an oil change at half time. Not an issue but somewhat different from the estimated 12k service interval that is in the book.

My car has now done 70k miles and for the first time I actually got a DPF warning message. Following the instructions I took it for a thrash until the light went out and it stopped regenerating (idle revs back to normal, i.e. 800 rpm instead of 950 rpm.). A few weeks later I got the same message - this time halfway down the motorway doing 70mph. I dropped a few gears and after 15 minutes or so the light went out.

I took it into my local independent garage who have serviced the vehicle since I stopped using the Jaguar dealers after the warranty ran out. He was thinking about getting a terraclean licence and offered me a discount so the terraclean agents could demonstrate the process (on my car). This was the full job including in-situ DPF clean. This didn't do the trick, and as between 70k an 90K it is usual for DPFs to get full of ash (from the burnt off soot), the DPF was sent off to terraclean for an oven bake job and chemical clean. The DPF "crumbled" (their words) under this onslaught so I purchased from them a reconditioned OEM Jaguar DPF (much cheaper than a brand new one). The repalcement DPF was much lighter than the old one (as presumably it was not full or soot or ash).

The new DPF is now fitted (along with an EGR blanking plate with 10mm hole as its the electronically controlled EGR) and the vehicle has been told it has a new DPF. I'm not sure why this is necessary as I thought DPF regeneration was controlled by back pressure from the DPF so no need to know. See here:
..There are definitely two pressure sensors, one high level and one low level. The following blurb is taken from the Jaguar workshop CD.

The differential pressure sensor is located in the engine compartment, on the lower RH side of the bulkhead. The sensor is located on 2 studs and secured with nuts.The differential pressure sensor is used by the DPF software to monitor the condition of the DPF. Two pipe connections on the sensor are connected by pipes to the inlet and outlet ends of the DPF. The pipes allow the sensor to measure the inlet and outlet pressures of the DPF. As the amount of particulates trapped by the DPF increases, the pressure at the inlet side of the DPF increases in comparison to the DPF outlet. The DPF software uses this comparison, in conjunction with other data, to calculate the accumulated amount of trapped particulates. By measuring the pressure difference between the DPF inlet and outlet and the DPF temperature, the DPF software can determine if the DPF is becoming blocked and requires regeneration.
My problem is that after spending all this money the car is now doing its regeneration thing every hundred miles or so - which will cost me a lot in oil changes and probably means the DPF is clogging up faster than I would want. My driving habits have changed as I am doing a small commute of just over 10 miles a day (rather than the 65 on the motorway that I was used to) but this is plenty of time for the engine to get to and remain at normal driving temperature. I still do a 150 or 200 mile motorway journey (each way) once a month.

My mechanic says that the rise in idle revs and heat from the exhaust is not a proper regeneration but my view from the cars history and those of the forum that I have quoted are that this is what the car is designed to do, and I do run the car until the revs die down although getting much above 40mph is not possible where I live. I know that when a regeneration is forced in the workshop the revs are up in the 3000rpm area.

Barney100golf describes regeneration:

From the Jaguar workshop manual:
The active regeneration process takes approximately 20 minutes to complete. The first phase increases the DPF temperature to 200°C
(392°F). The second phase further increases the DPF temperature to 600°C (1112°F), which is the optimum temperature for particle
combustion. This temperature is then maintained for 15-20 minutes to ensure complete incineration of the particles within the DPF. The
incineration process converts the carbon particles to carbon dioxide and water.
The active regeneration temperature of the DPF is closely monitored by the DPF software to maintain a target temperature of 600°C
(1112°F) at the DPF inlet. The temperature control ensures that the temperatures do not exceed the operational limits of the turbocharger
and the catalytic converter. The turbocharger inlet temperature must not exceed 760°C (1400°F) and the catalytic converter brick
temperature must not exceed 800°C (1472°F) and the exit temperature must remain below 750°C (1382°F).
During the active regeneration process the following ECM controlled events occur:
The turbocharger is maintained in the fully open position. This minimizes heat transmission from the exhaust gas to the turbocharger
and reduces the rate of exhaust gas flow allowing optimum heating of the DPF. If the driver demands an increase in engine torque,
the turbocharger will respond by closing the vanes as necessary
The throttle is closed as this assists in increasing the exhaust gas temperature and reduces the rate of exhaust gas flow which has
the effect of reducing the time for the DPF to reach the optimum temperature
The exhaust gas re-circulation (EGR) valve is closed. The use of EGR decreases the exhaust gas temperature and therefore prevents
the optimum DPF temperature being achieved
The glow plugs are occasionally activated to provide additional heat to assist in raising the DPF temperature
If, due to vehicle usage and/or driving style, the active regeneration process cannot take place or is unable to regenerate the DPF, the
dealer can force regenerate the DPF. This is achieved by either driving the vehicle until the engine is at its normal operating temperature
and then driving for a further 20 minutes at speeds of not less than 30 mph (48 km/h) or by connecting the Jaguar approved diagnostic
system to the vehicle, which will perform an automated static regeneration procedure to clean the DPF.
Is this "active regeneration" the regular 950rpm regeneration that I (and others) are getting or the "workshop forced " regeneration?

Anyway, back to my main question. Why is my car regenerating every 100 miles or so and what can I do to stop it! Any help appreciated. The EGR is not throwing any faults and visual inspection shows it is clean and working and the DPF sensor at the end of the inlet/outlet tubes (also clear) has been replaced.

DaveBell says:
Hi. You won't see a light on a DPF X-Type unless the filter is seriously blocked. The EMS will initiate a burn every few hundred miles to avoid filter blockage and you can spot this when the engine revs at idle go higher...
Seriously... every few hundred miles. I want mine back to the every one thousand miles that I think I was getting for the first seven years.
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I'm led to believe that with the 2:2auto we can't fit a blanking plate due to the type off Egr Valve.
I use genuine jaguar oil and fuel filters and use a C1 Low Ash Oil ( FORD /JAGUAR WSS M2C 934B C1 Low Ash Oil ) this number is not mentioned in the x type Handbook this Oil is used because off the DPFilter and myself and some members only use premium diesel.

I've had my x type 4 and 1/2 year's and have never had the DPFilter warning message, i do drive it quite aggressively from time to time and try not to do a lot off short journeys and if i do i make sure to have a long journey every 3 or 4 weeks.

When a Regeneration has started it's timing is a bit annoying especially when you have done a 200 hundred mile journey the day before.
Some members add some additives to their diesel but i find using premium diesel suits my needs.

I'm afraid i can't help with your current problems hope you get it sorted and let us know .

Regards Tom.
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Anyway, back to my main question. Why is my car regenerating every 100 miles or so and what can I do to stop it! Any help appreciated. The EGR is not throwing any faults and visual inspection shows it is clean and working and the DPF sensor at the end of the inlet/outlet tubes (also clear) has been replaced.

DaveBell says:

Seriously... every few hundred miles. I want mine back to the every one thousand miles that I think I was getting for the first seven years.
Simple answer.

On the very short journey's you are doing, your DPF is not even warming up and so no crud is being burnt. Your DPF is simply filling up hence the 100 mile regens.

I have exactly the same issues and now use our X300 (petrol) for shopping and short trips and the X type only when I know we will be driving over 20 miles thus giving the DPF a chance to heat up to a temperature where it can function.

Apart from putting a bottle of DPF cleaner (lowers the burning point) in with each tank, the only answer is for a good long run out each week.

The other item which is too late to do anything about was the use of a reconditioned DPF. They cannot be reconditioned, only cleaned. A new high quality silicon carbide DPF for the X type can now be bought for around £350. A huge reduction on the OEM price.

Sorry, you are stuck with the DPF problems that only a good run out will cure. These cars were never meant for short trips, not that the salesman would have told you.

Tony
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I'm led to believe that with the 2:2auto we can't fit a blanking plate due to the type off Egr Valve.
I use genuine jaguar oil and fuel filters and use a C1 Low Ash Oil ( FORD /JAGUAR WSS M2C 934B C1 Low Ash Oil ) this number is not mentioned in the x type Handbook this Oil is used because off the DPFilter and myself and some members only use premium diesel
Thanks Tom. My mechanic only uses low ash oil - I did check with him. As to the blanking plates - a search of this forum will show that there are 3 different types of EGR valve and each one requires a bigger hole than the last, so hole sizes of 6 (vacuum operated), 8 (?? can't remember now), or 10mm (electronic). Also a search of ebay for "blanking plate for jaguar 2.2d auto" will come up with blanking plates already drilled with 10mm hole. Its quite a large hole but still smaller than the egr valve and so stops some of the crud and some of the recirculating gasses (so keeps engine temperature up slightly which reduces particulates in the exhaust).
Simple answer. On the very short journey's you are doing, your DPF is not even warming up and so no crud is being burnt. Your DPF is simply filling up hence the 100 mile regens...Apart from putting a bottle of DPF cleaner (lowers the burning point) in with each tank, the only answer is for a good long run out each week...The other item which is too late to do anything about was the use of a reconditioned DPF. They cannot be reconditioned, only cleaned. A new high quality silicon carbide DPF for the X type can now be bought for around £350. A huge reduction on the OEM price.
Thanks Tony. By reconditioned DPF I did mean one that had been cleaned and checked. I could have got a cheaper DPF but the cleaned one was an OEM Jaguar part and not being new was considerably cheaper although perhaps not as cheap as a third party DPF. I like the idea of a bottle of DPF cleaner - any recommendations? I do use premium diesel to fill up since I had issues but it ran fine for 7 years on standard diesel. The 100 mile regen has only started happening since I had the new DPF a couple of months ago; I've been doing the shorter commute now for about 2 years. From the temperature guage the engine warms up about half way into my journey - are you saying that the DPF takes longer than this?
From the Handbook

Regeneration procedure
If DPF FULL along with the handbook symbol
appears in the message centre, carry out the
following procedure.
Note: At all times during this procedure you
should observe all relevant speed limits, laws
and regulations. Always take account of traffic
and weather conditions and drive with
consideration for other road users.
1. Drive the vehicle until the engine reaches
normal operating temperature. The engine
should not be left idling to achieve working
temperature.
2. Drive the vehicle for a further twenty
minutes, keeping the road speed above 48
km/h (30 mph).
3. If regeneration is successful, the warning
indicator or message, will extinguish. If
they do not, repeat the process.
Note: If the warning indicator or message fails
to extinguish after following the regeneration
process three times, contact your
Dealer/Authorised Repairer for assistance.

Roger
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It is interesting that an awful lot of people are getting a bit fed up with these units it would appear.

https://www.theguardian.com/environ...emoval-air-pollution-department-for-transport
Thanks Tony. By reconditioned DPF I did mean one that had been cleaned and checked. I could have got a cheaper DPF but the cleaned one was an OEM Jaguar part and not being new was considerably cheaper although perhaps not as cheap as a third party DPF. I like the idea of a bottle of DPF cleaner - any recommendations? I do use premium diesel to fill up since I had issues but it ran fine for 7 years on standard diesel. The 100 mile regen has only started happening since I had the new DPF a couple of months ago; I've been doing the shorter commute now for about 2 years. From the temperature guage the engine warms up about half way into my journey - are you saying that the DPF takes longer than this?
The Jaguar designed DPF is a joke. It is positioned further back on the exhaust system therefore taking longer to heat up.

DPFs start to work as soon as they get hot, it is just that around 600deg C is the optimum temp and that takes some time.

I use Wynns occasionally but at £18 a bottle it makes for expensive motoring. I find it easier for a nice run out each week instead. (mind you, that costs as well).

Nope, we are just stuck with a poor design.

Tony
Hi Tony
some companies are now starting to offer remanufactured DPFs as its not that hard to renew the core they just open it empty it refill and weld back up
on the subject of after market be carful of what you buy as they tend to use inferior cores made of Cordierite this has been known to melt during a very hot regen the better quality ones are made of Silicon Carbide (SiC).
G
I've recently had a similar issue with my DPF regenerating every 100 miles. Car has done about 75000 miles. When I got the car in Sep 15 I thought there was a fault when it was regenerating but soon realised what was occurring. Since then it's completed regens every 400 - 700 miles and I keep a log of when and mileage. Obviously some have been completed that I don't know about whilst driving on motorway.
"Touch wood" I have never had a amber or red light as I try to complete the regen if possible although the previous owner did have issues and took it in at least twice for a forced regen. He must have done a lot of town driving.
Anyway, when it started regenerating more frequently I took it to a place in Doncaster, he removed the DPF and cleaned it. He said it was well full and ready for a clean. Since then it's done 2 regens at 400 mile and 620 mile. I'm expecting another real soon as car has done about 500 mile since last regen.
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Hi Tony
some companies are now starting to offer remanufactured DPFs as its not that hard to renew the core they just open it empty it refill and weld back up
on the subject of after market be carful of what you buy as they tend to use inferior cores made of Cordierite this has been known to melt during a very hot regen the better quality ones are made of Silicon Carbide (SiC).
That's why I mentioned SIC. The really cheap ones are OK for a short time but the SIC ones are the ones you need.

I notice you can now buy a quality SIC one for £220. Cheaper than having your old one cleaned and refurbed.

Tony
It is interesting that an awful lot of people are getting a bit fed up with these units it would appear.

https://www.theguardian.com/environ...emoval-air-pollution-department-for-transport
Coincidentally, this subject has been brought up again in the last day or so.

https://www.petrolprices.com/news/removing-diesel-filters-spreading-pollution/
From the Handbook

Regeneration procedure
If DPF FULL along with the handbook symbol appears in the message centre, carry out the following procedure.... If regeneration is successful, the warning indicator or message, will extinguish. If they do not, repeat the process. Note: If the warning indicator or message fails to extinguish after following the regeneration process three times, contact your Dealer/Authorised Repairer for assistance.
Since the cleaned DPF has been fitted I have only done 500 miles and so not yet got to the DPF Warning or DPF Full messages although I am expecting them to appear within the next 12 months based on the regeneration rate - if the regenerations were that successful then these messages would not appear (or at least be very unlikely to appear) in the first place.

I've recently had a similar issue with my DPF regenerating every 100 miles....Since then it's completed regens every 400 - 700 miles and I keep a log of when and mileage. Obviously some have been completed that I don't know about whilst driving on motorway. "Touch wood" I have never had a amber or red light as I try to complete the regen if possible...I'm expecting another real soon as car has done about 500 mile since last regen.
700 miles per regen would be nice (I think it used to be around 1000). With a regen every 100 miles my main worry is that I need an oil change every 500 miles - the service light has now come on after 460 miles.
Hi Tony
some companies are now starting to offer remanufactured DPFs as its not that hard to renew the core they just open it empty it refill and weld back up
on the subject of after market be carful of what you buy as they tend to use inferior cores made of Cordierite this has been known to melt during a very hot regen the better quality ones are made of Silicon Carbide (SiC).
That's why I mentioned SIC. The really cheap ones are OK for a short time but the SIC ones are the ones you need. I notice you can now buy a quality SIC one for £220. Cheaper than having your old one cleaned and refurbed.
Thanks Tony & Tony, that is why I went with the know quantity of a cleaned jaguar DPF.
Hello Fluffball
This may be of interest to members.

I sincerely hope Terraclean goes well for you. I would like to add a note of caution. I have a 2007 S-type diesel which I purchased from Jag Demo in 2008 with 3,000 mles on the clock. I love this car so when I retired I decided to Terraclean it the car had completed 119,000 miles. This is the worst decision I ever made! I managed 6.000 miles before the crankshaft snapped! My Jag garage had never heard of this before. I have just put a second hand engine and with labour and having the turbos serviced the cost was £6,500. You may have short term gains but perhaps long term losses - I really hope you dont but you have been warned!!!!
Now I know it's not a jag, however it's a DPF still. My vauxhall one (zafira 1.9cdti) clogged up when i'd not had it fro long. I took it off soaked it in cleaner overnight and pressure washed all the ash out. Let it dry out re-fitted it , it's been perfect since and I do around 1500 miles a month.

Bit of a risk some may say, but what did I have to lose?
G
As mentioned earlier in this thread I had the DPF cleaned last September. The car appears to have settled into doing a regeneration at approx. 800 miles now.
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