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Removing car door panel (for speaker upgrade) pictures

10726 Views 5 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  rouseslane
Hi folks. After getting a lot of hugely expensive quotes for installing an upgraded amplifier / speaker system I've decided to do it myself.

First up was to see if I could remove things and route wires without wrecking my car.

So - how to take the door panel off:

You need a T30 star screw bit to remove the door and a T25 one to remove the existing speaker.

1. Wind the window down.

2. At the door jamb end, remove a cover (it is just clipped in) and remove a bolt.

3. Remove the bolts from underneath the door handle on the inside. There are two of these.

4. Do not remove the bolts under the covers here.

5. Remove the tweeter bezel. It is just clipped in.

6. Working from the bottom, pull the door panel away from the rest of the door (note there is some panelling that stays on the door - the brown bit at the bottom in my car). There are just clips.

7. Once the panel is loose - you need to lift the panel off the door. Do it slowly and steadily.

The speaker is even worse than I thought! 2W!! Seriously?! 2W?!?!?!! Urgl. Explains a lot.

When replacing the door - you'll need to remove the clips from the top of the panel and put them back onto the door.

Hope this is useful!

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Thats a great job Manic.

few questions as I want to do this exact same enhancement to my standard audio system ;

What speakers have you decided on a suitable replacements ?
what dimensions etc ?
how much room is there with the window down to fit a deeper speaker ?
if you fit a good quality speaker, (I guess the secret is to get a more sensitive speaker?) will the amp be able to drive them.
are you going to replace the rear speakers too ? if not will that upset the amp if its driving different wattage speakers front and back
are you changing to change the tweaters too, if so are you fitting new cross over ? which one

apologies for all the questions, but you have just got me very excited !!

I cant believe the stock speakers are 2W - that does indeed explain a lot ! I suppose fitting anything aftermarket is going to be an improvement, but I would like to do a good job and if fitting a quality speaker will give a better bass response and improve the sound stage, then I am all up for this relatively cheap mod.

thanks so much for any information you can provide.


2007 XK60 in lunar grey (with standard audio)
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I'm going to get a new 2 channel amp that can take its inputs from the old speaker wires. So, I'll run the wires from the old speakers to the amp and then from the amp to the new speakers.

It shouldn't hurt the existing amp - it is solid state and open circuit won't damage it - as opposed to short circuit. As far as the existing amp will see, it will see that the rear speakers are there and the front arn't - but shouldn't damage it.

Re tweeters, apparantly the tweeters fed from the main speakers with a capacitor to sort out the filtering - so I'll buy a speaker/tweeter combo with a supplied cross over.

I'm looking at probably getting a 2x100W RMS amp (way over kill really...but still...) and 2 x 100W RMS speakers.

Re the new speakers, the existing ones are mounted to the door itself - I'll probably not do that with the new ones as the mounting holes are non standard - so I'll mount the new speakers into the door panel that I removed. Not ideal but it should still give a huge improvement in quality over stock. If I do this you have 5" depth or more - so I'm not worrying about that at all. If I mount this way, I can go upto 6.5" speakers quite easily.

All I need to do now before I start project louder is to find a switched live that can provide the power I need. Removing the rear seats is easy so I'll have a look/see at the fuse box and see if there is anything appropriate that I can use back there.
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The speaker is even worse than I thought! 2W!! Seriously?! 2W?!?!?!! Urgl. Explains a lot.
What makes you think the speaker is rated at 2W? I'm pretty sure 2W93-18808 is the Jaguar part number, not a power rating.
I think you will get a better bass response if the speaker is mounted into the door itself rather than attached to the door card (how were you planning to 'attach' it ?)

Are you going to put the new amp behind the back seats somewhere ? that would make it easiest for wiring up etc.

have you had thoughts yet on which amp / speaker combo you are going for ?

I dont suppose you measured the hole in the door ????? I can see that the stock speaker has only 3 mounting holes but that should not be too much of a challenge.

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Hi Manic

Here is the shopping list that I think I have decided on. Total cost £350 plus my time to fit.

I am planning on fitting the amp behind the rear seat cushion next to the fuse box as this is close to the battery and there is room.

The hardest bit will be routing the 4 core speaker cables either side of the vehicle to pick up the loom by both door hinges.

Can you confirm if the existing tweater wires spur off the mid range speaker, or are they a seperate feed from the head unit ?

I have chosen to go with the 125mm speakers as I believe they need to be securely fastened into the actual doors rather than attached to just the door cards only.
Thanks for your help with the door card pictures.

let me know what you are planning.


Kenwood KAC 8405 High Performance 4 Channel 720 Watts Amplifier
Kenwood KAC 8405 High Performance 4 Channel 720 Watts Amplifier: Electronics

Infinity 50.9CS 255W (Peak) 5-1/4 -Inch Two-Way Speaker Component System (Pair)
Infinity Kappa 50.9 CS Car Hi-fi Loudspeaker 130 mm 2-Way Compo-System: Electronics


QED QX16/2 LSOH 2 Core Speaker Cable - Per Metre
£0.88 per metre
QED QX16/2 LSOH 2 Core Speaker Cable - Per Metre: Electronics

QED QX16/4 Four Core Speaker Cable Per Metre
£1.80 per metre
QED QX16/4 Four Core Speaker Cable Per Metre: Electronics

Budget Total £350
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