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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All

Been a while since iv posted but do read up a lot on here..

Anyway to the point, I have the s type 3ltr auto se
Now here we go....
I have a misfire and lots of power loss when I put my foot down for power I have had the eml flicker but never stays on.
I have had a obd check and no codes at all..
Car starts 1st time every time and is ave 23.1 mpg normally it's 24.5 mpg
I had new plugs back in Jan 2012 and fuel filter fitted.
Never had coils changed and I'd say they look old but it's not about the image I guess..
Also when I stopped at traffic lights I can feel a the idle drop in and out doesn't cut out tho. So I have to keep putting into Manuel at lights.
If I go up and hills or steep roads it's chugs like mad and then settles once on a flat road..

Hope someone can help
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Chug no more.... But

Update
I have had all 6 coil plugs changed got great deal all 6 for £99
Now the chug has totally gone... But on idle it just wants to cut out will has done a fees times. The garage that done job said elbow hose was leaking and repaired it....
I have the car booked back in with them Wednesday after I rung them. Was told don't worry we will sort it out..
When I had plugs changed 7 months ago the tech at my work said getting the manifold back on is hard as he had to remove twice because it kept cutting out ????

Also just under a year ago when I got car there was no heat so bought a new heater valve and had fitted all perfect.
Now the bloody heat won't go off just stays hot....
Could it be thermostat????

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hii All
So does anyone have any ideas regards what maybe going on ref my heater.
Had a new heater valve fitted less than a year ago now its just blowing hot only...
Is there a fuse ? When engine warm all hoses are hot..
Could it be a jammed thermostat? never had that changed. I did notice that it was taking longer than normal for it to go to the normal place early in the mornings.
Digital pack appears to be working ok outside temp is right too..
Please Help
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for reply

Which fuse am i looking for iv checked book but not sure which fuse..
Also had a look at dccv plug all looks ok. plus the unit still looks nice and new..
are the temp sensors expensive and are they main dealer parts?
Thanks
 
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Fuse 32 (10A) in the Front Power Distribution Fuse Box. if you read that link does tell you, you would need a voltmeter to check properly
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi
Ok get this.....
Was checking things around the car today fuses etc just making sure all in and just pushed on heater valve plug making sure all connected and then went back to work.
Going home temp was on low and to my surprise so was the air from vents..
How strande.. Something must have been loose I dont know so all back to normal.. At last..
Taking car back to garage tomorrow because after they had fitted all 6 new coil plugs the car won't idle prop and cuts out so they are going to sort it. Maybe manifold not sitting right..
 

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3.0 V6 SE sound like a steam train......

I too have the same "Chug Chug" issue on both Bank 1 & 2.... in the last month I have replaced both catalysts, O2 sensors (as they were all out-of-range), spark plugs, PCV pipe, coil packs, upper and lower inlet manifold gaskets as the car was idling badly and had no acceleration. There were traces of fresh oil in the inlet manifold which must have come through the breather pipes and the car is now idling (less roughly) but has no power and is very lumpy under acceleration. There's no cylinder head leak as I've done a combustion leak test and there is no loss of coolant or engine oil

I have examined the cylinders with a borescope and there's really bad carbonization as I think the car's been running rich and killed the catalysts - the spark plugs and 02 sensors were completely black. I have put 1/4 tank of fuel in the car and added BG44K fuel system cleaner to get rid of the carbon. I've disconnected the breather pipes and blocked the inlet to the throttle body and it still runs badly at idle. There are no fault codes and no MIL lamp. The links below include a recording of the exhaust note from both Bank 1 & 2 recorded between both tail pipes and also an excel spreadsheet with the data recorded from my ODB reader although none of the test results look abnormal.

http://www.andyturner.com/images/Jaguar_issues/Engine sound 27012013.wav
http://www.andyturner.com/images/Jaguar_issues/Test Results 27012013.xls

The car is pretty much undriveable as pulling out of junctions is dangerous due to a complete lack of power/acceceleration. Does anyone have any idea what may be going on?

Yours, Andy.
 

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Just a thought here.
After doing all those repairs did you disconnect the battery, then reconnect after 30 minutes and get the car to re-learn all the settings it ought to use?
 

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Hi,
I've had to order a new battery as the original one was down to one good cell so there's been no electrical power to the car for a few days. I fitted the new battery yesterday but the Jag is still chugging away! I have reseated the new inlet gaskets as a precaution and I have listened for any air leaks around the back of the engine with a length of hose....

I have to say that I'm now completely stumped as to what's going on! On the plus side of things, the BG44K cleaner seems to be working a treat as it appears to burning awat the carbon.... I wonder if carbon deposits can affect idling?

Yours, Andy.
 

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Did you state car year, mileage, gearbox type etc as without those maybe no-one can guess?

What are fuel trims at idle? And at 2500rpm?

Have you got P1111 as the only code?
 

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Hi 04str,


Apologies for the delay in getting back to you, the vehicle is a 2000 3.0 V6 SE Auto with 104k on the clock.

I've run the car with my ODB reader this weekend and I after clearing the multiple fault codes (caused by the low battery) I now have a persistent U1262 and SCP J1850 cam bus fault on both the IPK and MCC modules and the ubiquitous P1000 codes.

Below is a snapshot of best and worst results of the STFT and LTFT's with the engine at 98c after approximately 20 minutes of static engine running:

RPM MAF Throttle STFT LTFT STFT LTFT
Position Bank 1 Bank 1 Bank 2 Bank 2
Idle 1 723 4.26 14.51 -6.25 4.69 -1.56 0.00
Load 1 2012 11.32 17.25 -1.56 3.12 -9.38 0.00

Idle 2 716 4.22 14.51 -7.03 3.91 -3.91 -1.56
Load 2 2125 11.32 16.86 -2.34 3.12 1.56 -2.34

I haven't been able to detect any Inlet gasket leaks since but I'm sure I can hear some kind of air leak on the near-side (UK) of the engine. The problem I've found is that after a while of intense listening with a piece of rubber pipe all the engine noises tend to merge into one!

I have purchased some carb cleaner today with the idea of spraying some of the pipes to see if I can better detect any leak.....

After looking at the STFT and LTFT, I'm a bit unsure of the figures I'm seeing as they seem to vary considerably and seldom seem to balance between Bank 1 and Bank 2 so I'm really at a loss as to what may be causing the issues.

Would a faulty MAF always display a fault code or can it begin to fail undetected to the ECU?

Any help would be very much appreciated!

Yours,

Andy.
 

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Dear All,

I've disconnected the MAF whilst the engine is running and there is no change in engine tick-over or the chugging noise from the exhausts! I was under the impression that if the MAF was disconnected that the engine would run even worse or does this mean that my MAF has failed and isn't doing anything.... I have cleaned the MAF sensor with a carb cleaner spray but to avail.

I also had a good squirt around the pipework with carb cleaner whilst the engine was at temperature and there was no change in the quality of the idle so I'm not sure if I do have a vacuum leak but who knows?

The highest readings I get for the MAF at 2834rpm is 20.5g/s and the lowest reading at 773rpm is 3.45g/s - I feel the figure for idle speed is low and I get fluctuation in figures both under load and at idle. I would have thought that the MAF readings should be consistent at a set RPM and not fluctuate (i.e.: repeatable results) but I wondered if someone could give me an honest opinion!

Yours,

Andy.
 

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There is a chance that they overtightened the bolts that go through the upper manifold into the lower manifold and this resulted in losening of the copper inserts in the latter. 10 Nm is the specified torque.
 

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Aren't there 2 hoses that commonly leak (especially the elbow on the hose under the manifold) on that era engine? Have they been checked/replaced?

Do you have P1111 yet? If not, which OBD monitors are not complete? The car is largely unable to flag codes till you get P1111 signifying all monitors have run OK (because it cannot figure out which codes to flag).
 

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Hi All,

I've just fitted a new OEM MAF sensor and whilst it's not resolved the chugging noise and idle issues it has improved the live figures I'm seeing with my MaxiDiag 802 diagnostic kit - the MAF figures are consistent and don't fluctuate wildly.... The fuel trims are slightly better but I've asked my local mechanic if he can look at the breather pipes around the back of the engine, I feel I'm really close to resolving the issue but I don't have any free time during daylight hours to have a proper look!

At least one of my three cars is now working properly so if I can get my S-Type running properly that just leaves my poorly Discovery.....

Yours,

Andy.
 
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