SOLVED: Help! X-Type 2.0d turns off during harder acceleration! [IMAGES]

[Scruffy Puppy]

I'm well over 3000 posts, and I haven't even had a Jag for 6 years now - I just can't keep away from here!

No Jag?! 'it's life Jim - but not as we know it!'

 

[mrmut]

Good comprehensive answer.

Thanks, I try

I will go through your list tomorrow. - It is late now as I just returned from a trip with my other cat (which played nice).

Thanks a lot for your help and kudos for 1000+ posts!

 

[mrmut]

Good comprehensive answer.

Few things jump out.

1) It's not a fuel issue .

Good. Should I replace the fuel filter just to be sure?

2) Go and check that the -ve and +ve battery posts are clean and firmly attached, a loose connection there might be enough with the extra load of the injectors at high RPM and WOT to cause a bad earth which will kill the car.

They are completely fine. Battery is new, and about two weeks ago I cleaned oxidation from the terminals and applied Wurth dielectric paste. The terminals are now connected rock solid and there is no oxidation. (The problem was also happening before).

3) Take a look at the camshaft position sensor as Jimbo said. Pull it out and check for dirt/debri on the sensor, cracks in it and/or on the wheel. You have a circuit code so it may be circuit related - though as it is repeatable it is likely not.
One slight curveball is that the engine can get Cam and Crank sensor confused - either can give sudden shut down, but lets stick with teh cam sensor first.

Just to be sure, we are talking about the sensor at the front of the car, just below the commonrail? Not the other one deep below?

You can se from the images the sensor I pulled out and how it looked. There was some gunk on it. I cleaned that, and I also cleaned electrical connectors with WD40 and put everything back.

Before I mess up something - what should I do now? Try and repeat the error? Clear codes?

4) I'm going to guess that the other codes have been there since the battery voltage dropped on a start - prompting the need for a new battery. I would clear all the codes so we have a good base in case we don't fix it first try!

I guess this is correct. So... - I should clear these?

As for the car, it always behaved a bit weird. For example, if I stationary press the gas pedal and keep it still, at some RPM, the car tends to change RPM by itself. It kind of always did that...

5) your generic code reader shoud have picke up the P0340 as it is an OBD2 code.

It picked up nothing. I used CarScanner on my mobile and Viecar adapter.

6) - Bleeding 'ell this is my 1001th post- I must get out more!

 

[x-files]

Excellent.

No don't replace the filter yet.

Did you put the Wurth Dialectric on the posts before you put the terminals on or after ? Great for keeping muck off - but it's an electrical insulator.

Yes the Cam sensor is the one you pulled, looks pretty nasty is it better wiped off? You can test them for working or not, but you are not going to be able to test for breakdown at high RPM without a scope.

Yes now everything is cleaned up and the cam sensor is replaced firmly in its slot and not bolted down too tight, clear the codes, see if you can repeat the issue and re-read the codes.
From the look of the sensor, if it repeats and unless you have an oscilloscope and back probes we might just have to say replace it. Get a decent brand from a reputable supplier. Either a motor factor or one of the better ebay suppliers. PIM for example: https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car...int-camshaft-position-sensor-adj137213-detail

 

[sheddist]

Also check air filter. These on diesels should be changed every year. Also, there is a lot of dust in a paint shop!

 

[mrmut]

Excellent.

No don't replace the filter yet.

OK. I will still order it and the air intake filter.

Did you put the Wurth Dialectric on the posts before you put the terminals on or after ? Great for keeping muck off - but it's an electrical insulator.

I have put it on the terminals + on everything after I clamped it. It seems everything works fine, for about a month now. No oxidation whatsoever.

Yes the Cam sensor is the one you pulled, looks pretty nasty is it better wiped off?

After I cleaned everything, I couldn't reproduce the error on a drive. I tried to press the car hard and the engine didn't cut off. I also cleaned the contacts with WD40, so maybe that helped too.

You can test them for working or not, but you are not going to be able to test for breakdown at high RPM without a scope.

Yes now everything is cleaned up and the cam sensor is replaced firmly in its slot and not bolted down too tight, clear the codes, see if you can repeat the issue and re-read the codes.
From the look of the sensor, if it repeats and unless you have an oscilloscope and back probes we might just have to say replace it. Get a decent brand from a reputable supplier. Either a motor factor or one of the better ebay suppliers. PIM for example: https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/car...int-camshaft-position-sensor-adj137213-detail

I cleared the errors, and now I need to drive a bit to see if the errors will return.

Regarding the RPM oscillation I mentioned (when I press and hold gas pedal and it goes up and down), are those also related to these two sensors? I always more or less had this occur. Injectors were replaced about two years ago.

 

[x-files]

Just checking about the battery grease, it has been known for people to think it improves connection. looks like a good job on yours.

Yes the RPM oscillation could well be linked to the Cam sensor.
All you have left there is the radio network comms issue.
Fingers X'd you might have fixed it!

 

[mrmut]

Just checking about the battery grease, it has been known for people to think it improves connection. looks like a good job on yours.

Yes the RPM oscillation could well be linked to the Cam sensor.
All you have left there is the radio network comms issue.
Fingers X'd you might have fixed it!

These are good news!

I will test the car some more today, but yesterday it all seemed fine. It would be prudent to order a new, good quality cam sensor. They are not expensive, and it would be nice to have a peace of mind in regard to this (unpleasant) issue.

Will wait for a day or two to post update, and then I will mark this thread as solved!

 

[nicam49]

There's a couple of faults that the ecu will cut the engine on that I know of, and have experienced for myself, the 1st one being faulty/worn accelerator pedal. There are 3 position sensors on it, and if one becomes erratic the ecu notes this and uses the readings from the other 2, but logs a fault. If it logs more than a certain number of faults, then the ecu will cut the engine. You should be able to read a fault code if the EML light is flashing, maybe your reader isn't compatible with the car. The other fault that results in the ecu cutting the engine, is fuel rail pressure lower than expected.... once again, if the ecu logs this fault a certain number of times (with the EML light) the ecu will cut the engine. For me, my high pressure pump only delivered 850 Bar, and I got used to the engine cutting out as I hadn't noticed the EML light flashing and I'd just coast while switching off then restarting the engine, the only trouble being at night when the headlights would go off momentarily. Once again it will certainly log a fault... perhaps your reader isn't compatible.

 

[mrmut]

There's a couple of faults that the ecu will cut the engine on that I know of, and have experienced for myself, the 1st one being faulty/worn accelerator pedal. There are 3 position sensors on it, and if one becomes erratic the ecu notes this and uses the readings from the other 2, but logs a fault. If it logs more than a certain number of faults, then the ecu will cut the engine. You should be able to read a fault code if the EML light is flashing, maybe your reader isn't compatible with the car. The other fault that results in the ecu cutting the engine, is fuel rail pressure lower than expected.... once again, if the ecu logs this fault a certain number of times (with the EML light) the ecu will cut the engine. For me, my high pressure pump only delivered 850 Bar, and I got used to the engine cutting out as I hadn't noticed the EML light flashing and I'd just coast while switching off then restarting the engine, the only trouble being at night when the headlights would go off momentarily. Once again it will certainly log a fault... perhaps your reader isn't compatible.

Is there any way to test the pedal with logger from sdd?