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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ever since I bought my XK from Chilterns end Jan it keeps throwing up the same warning lights even though there's nothing wrong & it drives fine - all been checked thoroughly by Chilterns since to confirm. Specifically it's DCS fault, ABS fault, cruise control N/A, CAT System fault (sometimes), engine warning light (sometimes). They do go off sometimes but always return. Annoying as I always use cruise on the m'way but can't now.

It's a mystery to Chilterns as well. It went back there for a few days last week but the same warnings came back on after about 200 miles driving. They have checked sensors, checked connections, confirmed new battery last January (it's fine they say) etc etc, In saying that it was hanging around on their forecourt for a few months before I bought it.

So ...anyone have any clues...? Chilterns don't understand it / scratching their heads. But my big worry is come MOT time in 10 months it's an immediate FAIL due to presence of warning lights.

Just considering if it;s worth returning the car as "not fit" under Consumer Rights & using the cash to get another one there. Or just go to another Jag specialist see if they can fix it,

By the way, Chilterns have been brilliant I must say. Just a mystery illness they can't fathom.
 

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That does all point to the battery, irrespective of what they say. The first thing I would do is fully charge it, preferably overnight and then see how long it takes for the warnings to reappear.
A check for a parasitic drain should also be done.

Do you get the alarm chirp when locking the car?

Is there a possibility of a tracker having been fitted at some point in its life?
 

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The fault codes should give a clue as to the issue, the DSC ABS and cruise all point to, wheel speed sensor or brake light switch as the most common (in my experience) engine faults should have been stored, warning lights don’t come on for no reason, yes a low battery can throw them up, usually on start up though, who is Chilterns? do they have Jaguar diagnostics and someone who knows how to use and interpret the results? It may just be worth unplugging all the engine sensors and refitting them, this can re establish good connections on the very low voltage signals and is a well known cause of spurious fault codes.
 

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@JimboV8, the lack of chirp, what does that point to as I've never heard it in the several years I've owned mine?
2 things, either it has been disabled by SDD or it is defective from the internal batteries shorting out causing a drain on the main battery. If you have no drain on your car, and not heard it, then it may well have been disabled in your case.
 

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I would think about replacing the Battery and see if the faults clear, wheel speed sensor fault would cause the car problems changing through the gear box, had a wheel speed sensor fault and mine would not go past 4th gear. Low battery voltages causes all sets of alarms appearing on the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well many thanks to you all for excellent replies, great forum (y) . It's given me fresh hope...! And agreed, likewise it does all seem to point to battery issue.... but Chilterns said they've "checked it, it's fine" but what that entails Lord knows, you just take their word for it.

So yes, Jimbo - will buy a battery charger etc as suggested, though the number of miles I've done in it so far it should be pretty full anyway! However, the warning lights only appeared after about 150 miles of driving away from Chilterns last week, one would presume they;d fully charge the battery as part of diagnostics. It does "chirp" when locking as well. Odd thing is sometimes the warning lights don't appear on start-up but come on after a good number of miles driving, esp if I've not driven it for a few days. One time they didn't show-up for a few days.

Scrubber - again Chilterns said they'd swapped, checked etc all the wheel speed sensors, not sure about brake light. Will ask them EXACTLY what they tested etc and take it from there. They had it for 3 days. They are well-established Jag specialists with an excellent reputation.

So .....fingers-crossed it's just the battery. Will keep you updated.
 

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If all the wheel speed sensors have been checked/changed and the speedometer reads accurately and consistently then my money would also be on a battery which is not delivering 100% for one reason or another (connections, earths, battery condition etc)

Richard
 

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I would also be thoroughly checking the ground points behind the headlights. They corrode from the inside out, so while they may look ok, show them a spanner and they will crumble.
 
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@Defonseca,
Late last year mine started behaving similarly, occasionally 'Battery Not Charging' also, so I checked with Chiltern & Mark said they'd had one recovered to them recently as a non-start after similar error messages, which turned out to be a corroded engine earth strap. So, took mine over, 2 hours later & a modest charge, she was as right as ninepence & has remained so to date :p Worth getting that checked!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks to all for suggestions (y) . I'm sure (or would hope...) Chilterns would've checked the above potential corrosion suspects having seen them before, but will call & ask on Monday.

Will also ask if they or a more local Jag specialist to me (Preston ie) 3 hrs away from Chilterns....!) be prepared to stick a new battery in / covered by Warranty just to make sure.

And stupid question time - would ensuring a fully-charging battery as suggested above would be just as good as buying a new battery...??? Bearing in-mind it had a new battery last January but has been sat around idle for a good few months.
 

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And stupid question time - would ensuring a fully-charging battery as suggested above would be just as good as buying a new battery...??? Bearing in-mind it had a new battery last January but has been sat around idle for a good few months
Give the battery a full overnight charge first and try again, then you can decide on whether to buy a new battery or not. If the battery you have has been sat for so long the voltage will have dropped below 12.4v, this is when the lead sulphates start to form, strangling the battery’s capacity.
 

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Having drove 150 miles would be more than enough to fully recharge even a totally flat battery
sounds more likely to be an electrical component/ sensor breaking down with use
Not so , the alternator will never fully charge a totally flat battery , it would have to be charged with a battery charger to achieve that 👍
 
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