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Stiff actuator arm

1057 Views 6 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  You go first
Had the flashing light and limp home mode on me 2.2 jag, gave it the mr muscle treatment and it was ok for a day then same again, actuator arm very stiff so decided to strip the turbo down in situ. There's a good write up with pictures on the ford fourum. Stripped turbo down and found the control ring gummed up also managed to remove the unit that holds the vanes which is held in place by three 4mm torx head screws apparently these are prone to snapping but mine came undone ok. Most of the vanes were quite free except the ones on the bottom which were quite gummed up and stiff. Gave everything a good soak in mr muscle and left over night in a bath of degreaser, everything nice and free after drying everything off. Reassembly is a reversal of removal, these words are so easy to say. First thing to replace is the unit which holds the vanes and is held in position by three torx screws, there are spacers which have to placed on the screws after the screws have been inserted into the ring and then the unit gently fitted into turbo housing without loosing any of the spacers,easy bit over. Next to fit is the control ring, this is held in place by three rollers which are themselves held in place by pins,these would have been removed during strip down,with the control ring held in the correct position all the levers which operate the vanes are fitted Into there respective slots, then without trying to disturb anything the rollers and pins have to be fitted,with everything fitted the turbo itself can be installed making sure to lineup the lever for the actuator arm and being careful not to bump the control ring as it is now nice and clean and moves very easily. Everything is bolted up and ready to go after making sure the turbo is primed with oil. Fitting of the turbo housing bolts,the oil feed pipe and the oil return pipe is in its self a marathon and would probably be easier if you're hands were on back to front. Summery, very awkward job, need the patience of a saint, be prepared to keep dropping the rollers and the control ring keep jumping off and end up with a bad back, but overall a good result with the old car back on top performance.
Regards AC
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Hi Alan, sounds like you enjoyed yourself with that one. I found that if the arm was stiff after doing the Mr. Muscle then it needed doing again and concentrating on the actuator arm. I found it took a couple of goes before it was good. Bit late now though:-?
Good write up though.

Hi Alan, don't know how you managed to split you're turbo in situ , tried that one but two bolts too difficult, ended taking whole thing off the car. One problem though although I striped it down cleaned and oiled everything , the actuator arm still a bit ropey. So much so thinking of striping down again.
i just drove my till it was hot and moved the arm forward and backwards for 5 minutes at a time until it was smooth again, took a couple of attempts, but I didnt wanna strip my turbo down. XD
i just drove my till it was hot and moved the arm forward and backwards for 5 minutes at a time until it was smooth again, took a couple of attempts, but I didnt wanna strip my turbo down. XD
Hi thanks for that it's just , every morning I test the arm and it's ropey, don't want to have to do it every morning, just put some Mr muscle in see if it clears it for a while. Thanks again.
The control arm on my old 2.2D Estate would not move, I sprayed WD 40 down where the arm enters the turbo and left for half an hour when I came back there was some movement so I just kept working it back and forwards and spraying WD 40 in until I had full range of movement with no catches, probably took around 1.5 hours total just spraying working it back and forward then leaving for a bit to soak in.
It was still working fine when I sold the car 3 years later
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