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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I did last years oil change I noticed some wetness around the pipes leading to the two oil coolers. Late STRs have a different setup to earlier cars.
So I decided to have the said oil pipes repaired, whilst I was doing this years oil change.

Like all good plans it fell apart after about ten minutes when the first bolt snapped in the joining block on the pipe. At this point I decided to just order new pipes from Jaguar, I rang WIlliams in Manchester because one of the two pipes was showing out of stock online and they have manged to order both for delivery tomorrow. Friday.
They also gave me a 5% discount, so it came to £150. Numbers 8 and 5, the snapped bolt is between 8 and 7 but the thread is in 8.

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Then the real problems started, luckily no other bolts snapped but trying to thread the pipes out from behind the radiator fan, down, around the subframe and through a tiny gap between the fan shroud and antiroll bar, which incidentally is proper THICK, was borderline impossible.
Eventually I jacked the radiator up as much as I dare, about an inch, and with two hours of turning and squeezing and pulling I managed to get the first pipe out. The second pipe was a bit less of a fight and more of a Chinese puzzle and took about half an hour.

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Hopefully both pipes will arrive tomorrow and I'm really not looking forward to getting them back in.
Does anyone have any ideas that might give me more room? I don't fancy dropping the subframe and I can't get to the antiroll bar bolts without doing the former.

Secondly, what is the best way to separate the part of this pipe I still need, given that there is a bit of the snapped bolt thread holding them together?

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And finally, it seems the gearbox cooler is also leaking at this point, trouble is, I can't tell if it's the flexi joint, like the oil cooler pipes or at the union with the rad, Any ideas? I did try to put a spanner on the union nut that you just can't see in this picture (where the pipe goes into the rad) but I don't have the correct size.

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For the stuck bolt can you drill it to get an extractor in then heat the surrounding ali? might take a few heats and colls to break the bond.

The leaking pipe, through clean and a short drive then recheck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
For the stuck bolt can you drill it to get an extractor in then heat the surrounding ali? might take a few heats and colls to break the bond.

The leaking pipe, through clean and a short drive then recheck.
Thanks.
I may have to drill it a bit, thankfully I only need the top part, the majority of the bolt is stuck in the pipe I'm replacing, so hopefully I won't have to heat it because I don't have heating things.

Will clean up the transmission cooler pipe tomorrow if I manage to get the oil cooler new pipes in, then drive and check. I suspect it is the flexi joint that is at fault and the oil has ran down to where it screws into the rad.

Really not looking forward to fighting with the new pipes tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Day2
Jaguar rang at 8.30 'parts in stock'.
Excellent, collected the two pipes from Williams Manc and tried to buy a replacement for the broken bolt. Unfortunately that bolt is not listed on the diagram but I had one of the others with me so they managed to match it up and they didn't charge me for it either.

Back home and I started to fit the first pipe. If anything, getting it back in was a bit easier than the extraction and within half an hour it was all connected up. Had to reuse an O ring because I forgot to order a replacement for the pipe that remained on the car. The new pipe came with new O rings.

Next job was the other 'tricker' pipe. Firstly I had to extract the stuck bolt. Luckily I only needed the top part, which had a clearance hole in it, rather than the threaded bit, despite this it refused to come apart. I soaked it in WD40 (all I had) and scraped away at the corrosion in the hole. Eventually a thin scraper managed to separate the two halves.

Fitting the second pipe did not take anywhere near as long as the two hours it took to remove it. It wasn't exactly the work of moments but probably a little over half an hour and that includes five minutes where I couldn't figure out why the pipe wouldn't feed into the gap anymore, only to discover that it was caught in my shirt sleeve.

So that's it, job done then. Err no, it couldn't be that simple could it. When I was waggling the new pipe end into its hole in the filter housing, the end fell off it.
&%£ing stupid *&%$ son of a &%%£(&.
Right, firstly find a dead horse I can post through Williams' door. Then call them up and get a new pipe.

Apparently getting a new pipe is not so straight forward. The first question is:
'Can you bring the car in?'
Err it's an oil pipe, what do you want me to do, push it down the M60?
'We don't normally warranty parts broken during fitting'.
Well you can &^%£* and &^%£$...
'I'll speak to my manager'. 'Ok, Jaguar won't accept the return but we'll pay for the new pipe and order it for delivery tomorrow'.
Many thanks, and sorry for what I said about your mum.


Ok, so I guess the car spends another night on the ramps, never mind. Lets hope the new, new pipe isn't a duffer too.

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When I was waggling the new pipe end into its hole in the filter housing, the end fell off it.
That's not something you see every day. It would start me question the build quality of standaard parts. A flange breaking of a new pipe would piss me off to. But it beter its break during fitting then when it breaks during a drive on the M60.

With the next set of pipes i would inspect then very good before fitting.
 
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Ok item 5 and 8 are the crimped flexible pipes, and the others just have rubber protectors on the Al pipe. This was going to be on my list of things to check when I managed to get around to it.

And finally, it seems the gearbox cooler is also leaking at this point, trouble is, I can't tell if it's the flexi joint, like the oil cooler pipes or at the union with the rad, Any ideas? I did try to put a spanner on the union nut that you just can't see in this picture (where the pipe goes into the rad) but I don't have the correct size.

My transmission lines to from oil cooler are leaking / weeping at present from the rubber pipe hose crimps, rubber hardening etc. Seems to be a fairly common issue. So would expect these rubber pipe hoses to be requiring to be replaced now too. There is a detailed thread on 6HP26 transmission leak/ oil change/ and this hose replacement on the other site Jaguar Forums by wydopnthrtl , where they cut the crimps crop off and replace the rubber hose using the original Al pipe and pipe clamps. This was the route I was intending to take on this repair and upgrade the hose from the originals.

Good post thanks, and Ill be very careful in loosening off the oil pipe hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Day 3
Collected the new, new, pipe from Williams Manc. Asked about new O rings for the existing pipes but they couldn't get a part number and suggested I buy the pipe which includes the O rings. £141 each, and I need two. I don't think so.
Collected a box of two hundred O rings from Screwfix for £12. Opened the box only to find that the closest O rings in there are ever so slightly thinner. I tried them in the fitting but I felt that the originals made a better seal, so went with cleaning them up instead of replacing.

Given that this is the forth time I have inserted or extracted this pipe, I managed to do it in a record breaking half an hour. If anyone is trying to do this job I can't really help in saying which way it goes in, other than to say that you feed it into the gap you have between the radiator fan shroud and the subframe. Keep freeing it from jamming against the anti roll bar and there's plenty of turning and pulling and pushing and swearing.
At one point the flexi part of the pipe does twist a little but once the pipe is in position, it untwists to be perfectly loose.
You don't really have to force it all that much, just keep trying different directions. Work on getting the pipe into the void between the fan and engine, rather than trying to get the pipe in the correct position. Good luck.
Connecting the pipes up was straight forward, I opted for wiggling and squeezing the pipes together by hand, rather than drawing them together with the bolt.

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Fitted a new genuine oil filter, a new sump plug O ring and filled with six and a half litres of Shell 5w 30 ultra pro AF.

Ran up to temp - no leaks
Completed a short 7 mile drive, to see where the transmission cooler line was leaking from but it was bone dry still. Decided to ignore this for now.
Refitted undertrays.

Unfortunately I have now noticed that the front tyres are wearing unevenly, not something I have ever had.
I will start a new thread for this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok item 5 and 8 are the crimped flexible pipes, and the others just have rubber protectors on the Al pipe. This was going to be on my list of things to check when I managed to get around to it.

And finally, it seems the gearbox cooler is also leaking at this point, trouble is, I can't tell if it's the flexi joint, like the oil cooler pipes or at the union with the rad, Any ideas? I did try to put a spanner on the union nut that you just can't see in this picture (where the pipe goes into the rad) but I don't have the correct size.

My transmission lines to from oil cooler are leaking / weeping at present from the rubber pipe hose crimps, rubber hardening etc. Seems to be a fairly common issue. So would expect these rubber pipe hoses to be requiring to be replaced now too. There is a detailed thread on 6HP26 transmission leak/ oil change/ and this hose replacement on the other site Jaguar Forums by wydopnthrtl , where they cut the crimps crop off and replace the rubber hose using the original Al pipe and pipe clamps. This was the route I was intending to take on this repair and upgrade the hose from the originals.

Good post thanks, and Ill be very careful in loosening off the oil pipe hoses.
Thanks.
I think the workshop manual for the auto transmission pipes says to lower the subframe, which isn't something I want to do. I tried to have a good look at the path they take but on my car at least, I can't tell if they'd come out without dropping that subframe. Not even sure how to get at the bolts to undo the pipes from the radiator.

When undoing these joints, the threaded bolt hole goes all the way through that block, so get some penetrant into the back side of the bolt too.

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