Jaguar Forum banner
21 - 40 of 40 Posts
Huge thanks to @No Quarter for this and his photos!

I believe I've completed this today, so here are a few notes that may help anyone else wishing to attempt this method.
You'll need a phillips screwdriver, a flat-head, 8mm socket and 10mm socket (or small spanners).

Steps I took:
1. Remove plastic engine cover (4x philips screws)
2. Remove plastic cover from corner of engine bay (UK driver's side)
3. Undo top and bottom jubilee clips on the air intake
4. Undo the 10mm bolt that holds the intake pipe in place/
5. Free and remove this pipe
6. Use the 8mm to remove the attachment bracket for the plastic cover removed in step 1 (also slide off the nut clip so you don't lose it)
7. Prepare for some discomfort. For the record I'm 6ft2 so didn't need the mentioned block of wood or pillow.
8. Reach into the space you've created following the firewall down I had to get my elbow just past the strut brace
9. on the firewall you should feel the duckbill
10. Either destroy with your fingers, or use the knife method.
11. Re-assemble in reverse order

My arm (finger tips to just past elbow) measures 50cm, so this is where you'll need to get to.
There is a electrical connection just below the S/C intake that is an utter &%@$, I found covering this with a microfibre cloth helped, but I still lost some forearm skin.

Still have to go for a drive and see if what I did was enough, but if not will know what to do next time.
Thanks for this brilliant description, it is really helpful. I have to replace all my water parts and service the supercharger, so while everything is off I will check the duckbill, though I suspect it has been done already
 
Hello, sorry for the delay in replying. My dashboard I know has been removed at some point, so I think my duckbill has been sorted during the first 10 years of ownership. Its now 14 years old and no issues at all, it is unlikely to be a problem like you say. Thanks for the heads up on your situation :)
👍🏻😀
 
Here’s another way to deal with the issue. Regardless of whether your have been able to clear the duckbill or not, a secondary drain seemed sensible to me. Remove seat and carpet drill a small hole at the bottom of the airbox, where the condensation water collects. Connect a hose to it and lead the other end to an opening in the floor pan as shown. That should solve the issue for good (yes, i realize its not high end engineering work, but it serves the purpose).
Image

Image

Image

Image
 
Hello JimboV8

In reply to "What years and models does this affect ?"

you replied "Yours is not affected Andy, don't worry about it.

Was that because Andy's car is a 5 litre or because it's a 2014 or some other reason?

I have a 2009 XKR 5 litre....

Many thanks
Tony
 
2009 was the changeover period when the revised arrangements were put in place for the AC drains. Your car, as a 2009 model may be fitted with the older version as the parts bin was emptied.

Scot Amb
 
Hello JimboV8

In reply to "What years and models does this affect ?"

you replied "Yours is not affected Andy, don't worry about it.

Was that because Andy's car is a 5 litre or because it's a 2014 or some other reason?

I have a 2009 XKR 5 litre....

Many thanks
Tony
Hi Tony, my 09 XK was an early car and it had the updated drain fitted. If yours is a late 09 model then it should have been updated also.
 
Thank you both for your replies.

My XKR was first registered in July 2009. I have the Jaguar Heritage Trust certificate which indicates it was manufactured on 05/05/2009, so I'm feeling hopeful !!! It's a LHD (I live in France) - don't know whether that changes anything.

My footwell carpets on both sides are completely dry, so for now I will just my fingers firmly crossed.

Thanks again
Tony
 
The affected VIN range is B00001 - B25390
 
Thanks again Jim.

Not sure what you mean by "The affected VIN range is B00001 - B25390". That range has the problem or does not have the problem?

My Vin ends in B33958.
Your car is not affected, Tony. The VIN range quoted is for those with the old style duckbill.
 
Hey, I’ve solved my duckbill issue. And without lowering the transmission or taking the dash apart! I found a third way.

I started the day by climbing under, to find out what it would take to lower the transmission or if I could get to the duckbill without lowering the trans. So removed a shield and 2 wires and had a look with a camera, and later tried to get up there with a bent coat hanger. I soon found this was not an easy way to go, I would have to lower the trans and since most of the space constraints were on the side of the trans, not the top, it would have to go down a lot. And looking at exhaust, brackets, wires etc, phew, not something I had the energy to start on.

But I had noticed one good thing with the camera, namely that the hole in the chassis where the duckbill is placed up into, it was quite near the engine compartment, I had thought it was a lot further back. So I got the idea, I must be able to reach that hole from the engine room. I wish I had got this idea in December when I replaced the valley pipes because then I had all the TBI stuff at the rear of the engine out, so I had space. I did look for it then, but back then I thought the duckbill would be sticking down, I didn’t know it was up in hole in the chassis, so I couldn’t find it.

I removed the 3 parts you see in the picture, and even on a SC model, that’s enough! Standing on a 4” wood block and with a pillow on the windshield not to break it, I can gently get my hand and arm down so far I can reach the hole. And with the middle finger I optimistically stretched all I could, and I could touch the duckbill! I could feel it. If my finger had been 2 mm shorter or my arms a bit more buff, I might not have been able to, but I could. And my fingertip could feel the end of the duckbill and yes the lips were together and didn’t open by my touch.

Then I tried to construct some knives and sharp points to open/cut the duckbill, don’t laugh at my attempts… ;-). After about 5 attempts, I stuck my finger back down and I felt water and lips open! Problem solved! Man, I spent hours worrying about this, didn’t really want to lower a trans or take dash apart.

I realize that the lips may close again, and I will be looking for a better knife/blade than I had. If I could get a blade that’s both pointy and sharp (really sharp) on both sides, I’m sure I can do so much damage to the duckbill that it won’t close again. For now, I’m waiting for a warm day to test what I’ve done. This procedure can be done in one hour…
:p
I did the same thing only I taped exacta blades to my middle finger to cut slices in duckbill - worked great!
I also put liquid hand cleaner on my arm around elbow area to allow my arm to slip in tight spot easier.
 
21 - 40 of 40 Posts