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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm adding this in as a bit of a work blog to keep track of what I've done to my car.

This beauty was purchased a couple of days ago (12th November) for £650, gives a lot of car for the money :D. It came with 11 1/2 months MOT and only had advisories for front tyres and couldn't inspect sills due to covers.

At 114k it has pretty low millage for the year and I have receipts for a brand new gearbox being fitted at 89k. It drives perfectly and is probably the smoothest car I have ever owned.

Here's some pics of it as it was when purchased.
Car Wheel Automotive parking light Land vehicle Tire
Car Automotive parking light Land vehicle Wheel Vehicle
Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive design Steering wheel
Car Vehicle Automotive design Motor vehicle Car seat cover
Grille Automotive lighting Hood Car Motor vehicle
Tire Wheel Car Automotive tire Automotive lighting
Window Automotive exterior Glass Gas Vehicle door


It's in pretty good condition with a little bit of rust here and there, but nothing too major. The arch O/S/F arch being the worst, but nothing that can't be cut back and reconstructed, or even replaced with another wing; as for the window pillars I will most likely replace the black trim as the rust looks a little deep on them in places.

Being an SE it has lots of toys to play with such as dual climate control, heated front screen, auto lights, auto wipers, auto dimming mirror, heated electric memory seats, electric adjustable steering wheel etc... All the toys seem to work just as they should.

Things to do (not listed in any specific order):
  • Fit the hardwired dash cam that I took out of my old car.
  • Replace front tyres (MoT advisory for nearing legal limit).
  • Remove sill covers to check the condition of the inner sill, either get it welded or clean and seal depending on condition.
  • Replace door pillar trim.
  • Repair or replace O/S/F arch rust.
  • Repair rust on O/S/R door (at the top), plus a few chips down the edge of all the doors.
  • Fit a tow bar so we can use the trailer tent next year
  • Do a full service - Parts ordered
  • Strip the underside of the car and under seal it.
  • Check/replace one of the EGR breather hoses as seller advised me that it was cracked.
  • Remove head unit and attempt to fix cassette deck (highly unimportant, but everything must work)
  • Obtain Mongoose kit to go with diagnostics laptop

Completed jobs:

  • Replace N/S/F door lock mechanism as the motor is stuck, reconnect exterior door handle
  • Get remote fob working; original now works, will eventually get a second

It's far from the newest car I have owned and it definitely isn't the most economical car either, but it does make me smile like a Cheshire cat when I drive it.
 

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hi and welcome to the merry world of cheshire cats smilers.

to save yoursel a lot of time I would go here and get acopy of the workshop manual.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/...stall-method-new-jtis21-s-type-archive-66031/.

here is the parts cat
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/...download-complete-install-instructions-48194/

I would also get a scan tool either a jlr mongoose clone and use the sdd/Ids 1.30 to do a complete code read. or you could get an elm 327 which can read the engine codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hi and welcome to the merry world of cheshire cats smilers.

to save yoursel a lot of time I would go here and get acopy of the workshop manual.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/...stall-method-new-jtis21-s-type-archive-66031/.

here is the parts cat
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/...download-complete-install-instructions-48194/

I would also get a scan tool either a jlr mongoose clone and use the sdd/Ids 1.30 to do a complete code read. or you could get an elm 327 which can read the engine codes.
Thank you, I did install a software manual on the diag laptop the other day, although it isn't the same as the one you linked to so I'll give that a go as well (the one you linked to looks nicer than what I found). The Parts catalogue will always be a useful thing to have at hand, I'll get both set-up on the laptop.

As for diagnostics, I currently have an ELM327 in with the diag laptop for generic bits (usually on other peoples cars) and will get a JLR Mongoose clone in a week or two once I've sold the Lexia3 diag kit for the Peugeot that I sold to fund this.

From what I gather SDD won't work with a 1999 car, but IDS should work fine if I can get the correct version (I still have a lot to learn about the JLR diagnostics kit). Am I right in saying that with IDS I can program the remote fobs to my car, if so then it'll pay for itself on that job alone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Welcome to our forums VDM.

Looks like a great car.

The rear subframe rusts at the mounts so have a look.

New gearbox is a big bonus.
Thank you, I've had a look underneath and it looks mostly rust free under there except a bit along the exhaust, nothing that will cause it to blow though. The exhaust probably still has a good few years of life in it and if I can afford, it will be replaced with stainless when it needs doing.

There's the odd small patch here and there which should be solvable with a wire brush attached to the grinder followed by some waxoyl/under seal.

As I forgot to add it to the original post, here's the engine bay looking fairly tidy.
Motor vehicle Hood Light Car Automotive design
 

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Lovely looking car. :mrgreen:

if you plan on undercoating it don't apply the underseal to untreated metal.


Bilt hamber hydrate 80 does a brilliant job converting rust, miles better than kurust. :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Lovely looking car. :mrgreen:

if you plan on undercoating it don't apply the underseal to untreated metal.

Bilt hamber hydrate 80 does a brilliant job converting rust, miles better than kurust. :mrgreen:
Thank you for the recommendation, although most of the rust is only skin deep and should come off with some persistence and sweat I was planning on using a rust converter on some bits which will be hard to get too or a bit more than skin deep. This will be my first got at under seal, I'm planning that job for around March/April time as we are in the wetter months now and I wouldn't want to seal moisture onto the chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did a little soldering to my remote fob today as the buttons were in pieces inside the fob, unfortunately it still needs re-programming to the car though as it appears to have lost it's programming.

Here's the state of the buttons on the remote (as can be seen, the lock/unlock buttons have fallen apart so will not work at all)


A little soldering and cleaning later and the old buttons have been removed. One solder pad came away, looking at the traces though this pad isn't used for anything electrical and is only a 4th anchor point for the button


Then a little more soldering later and 3 new buttons are in.


Edit: Scratch that, I forgot to put the battery back in it. Put the battery back in and it now works! That's a bit of a result for 30 pence worth of SMD buttons.
 

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Edit: Scratch that, I forgot to put the battery back in it. Put the battery back in and it now works! That's a bit of a result for 30 pence worth of SMD buttons.
.
Well done VDM, great job those are fiddly little buttons for my big fat fingers. :)

Can you please put a copy of this in our S Type Stickies subforum, so it's not lost?

That's interesting because your fob battery must have been out for some time, how long?

We've thought until now that the battery can only be out for 2-3 minutes before pairing is lost, so that's evidently not true.

.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
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Can you please put a copy of this in our S Type Stickies subforum, so it's not lost?

That's interesting because your fob battery must have been out for some time, how long?
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I'll post a copy of it on the stickies subforum when I get back from the school run. The trick to SMD is to use ceramic tweesers to hold the component while you solder, it does feel like you need 3 hands; otherwise a dab of superglue under the switch will hold it in place but will also cause problems if you ever need to replace them again.

The battery was out of the fob for around 20-30 minutes while I did this, I assumed it had already lost it's programming so took my time doing it. As for the history I couldn't say, but I don't think the fob has been used for a long time as the buttons didn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Next update: The N/S/F door lock mechanism arrived yesterday, I managed to get it replaced in a speed run, took a total of 15 minutes from getting the toolbox out to putting it back. The passenger front door lock now works perfectly. I have to say I'm amazed at how easy the lock was to replace as I've spent hours over doing them on other cars before.
 
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