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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I think I made a thread about this issue earlier this year but it magically sorted itself out and has just returned to annoying the living crap out of me. From the key fobs the only thing that locks/unlocks is the fuel filler cap. Both fobs are still sending and the car is receiving because I get the standard one beep and lights flash then I get double beep. All four buttons on the door handles do the same thing it sends the signal to lock the car beeps and lights flash then double beep. Dashboard unlock button is the same it only causes fuel filler cap lock to function and the unlock button does nothing at all. I even manually locked both back doors from inside then got out and nothing happens when I try to unlock with fobs.
Any insight as to what is causing this so I can fix it and be done with the double beeps would be amazing or even a link to a thread that had the same issue and resolved it without having to take it to jaguar
Thank you to any and all for your knowledge and đirection
Oh it's a 2013 xfr 5.0L v8 supercharged and I live in canada
 

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I don't think you will get any answers that are different to the ones you got in your previous thread, the suggestions made in that one still apply. In the previous thread you said that you had ordered 4 new door locks, did you fit them all and now the problem has come back?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I didn't fit the new motors previously because the issue sorted itself but since it's back to not locking/unlocking I literally am just in the process of putting the drivers locking mechanism and all its glory back inside the door with a new motor. Which brings me to a question I could not find where the second small motor is suppose to go and I had that actuator in pieces it has one big cylindrical motor that is hard wired and then a smaller one that I was looking for but not a second smaller motor
Adapter Lamp Automotive lighting Ac adapter Adapter

Which kind of still leaves me scratching my head.did I by some small miniscule chance overlook that second smaller motor to replace. Motor on right I couldn't find anywhere
 

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I think the smaller motor will be the deadlocking motor. USA spec cars don’t have this feature as regulations don’t support deadlocking.
Your issue sounds like the car thinks one of the doors or maybe boot/ bonnet, is still open. If this is the case then it will be caused by a micro switch in the actuator and not the motors.
You’d also get a warning that a certain door was open and the interior lights would be on, if set.
 

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Hi Grim-wrapper. This post probably of no use to you at all but I had similar experience with locking. I didn't check or lock interior doors from inside or try all the things you have but neither fob nor door button would lock the car. Like you, I got beep, lights and then double beep indicating something not ready to allow alarm and locking to take place. Eventually, I thought "bonnet" or hood, a gentle pressure at mid centre above the grill and problem gone, for quite a while but it returned.
 

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The double beep signifies that the computer has rejected the door lock command for some reason. Usual causes are that a door is open, or it detects the key inside the car.
My car does this from time to time with no apparent cause. I go around the car, open and close all the doors and then it's happy again.
Bonnet lock is a good suggestion, I'd certainly open and close the bonnet firmly, though if it thought the bonnet was open I'd expect a warning on the dash. That said, it's not asif I get any door open warnings when it won't lock for me.
Hence, yes, most likely it thinks something is open. Just need to figure out what.
Worst case, I'm sure a good code reader can see the signals
 

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The problem returning coincides with the drop in temperature. The worn motors will be less efficient in lower temperatures and struggle more .
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I didn't fit the new motors previously because the issue sorted itself but since it's back to not locking/unlocking I literally am just in the process of putting the drivers locking mechanism and all its glory back inside the door with a new motor. Which brings me to a question I could not find where the second small motor is suppose to go and I had that actuator in pieces it has one big cylindrical motor that is hard wired and then a smaller one that I was looking for but not a second smaller motor
View attachment 58334
Which kind of still leaves me scratching my head.did I by some small miniscule chance overlook that second smaller motor to replace. Motor on right I couldn't find anywhere
M
I think the smaller motor will be the deadlocking motor. USA spec cars don’t have this feature as regulations don’t support deadlocking.
Your issue sounds like the car thinks one of the doors or maybe boot/ bonnet, is still open. If this is the case then it will be caused by a micro switch in the actuator and not the motors.
You’d also get a warning that a certain door was open and the interior lights would be on, if set.
There is no warning on the dash of hood,boot or any doors being open and interior lights go out right away. I've manually checked each one and the dash warns me that it's open the interior light stays lit and there is an audible warning when a gear is selected, then all is calm when it's closed properly
Hi Grim-wrapper. This post probably of no use to you at all but I had similar experience with locking. I didn't check or lock interior doors from inside or try all the things you have but neither fob nor door button would lock the car. Like you, I got beep, lights and then double beep indicating something not ready to allow alarm and locking to take place. Eventually, I thought "bonnet" or hood, a gentle pressure at mid centre above the grill and problem gone, for quite a while but it returned.
U say mid centre above the grill do u mean the middle off the hood or like right close the front edge of the hood just above the grill kind of where the hood latch is?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The problem returning coincides with the drop in temperature. The worn motors will be less efficient in lower temperatures and struggle more .
Yes it could be because I believe it was winter when it started and right around the end of spring when it stopped and now back again with the cold weather
 

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M

There is no warning on the dash of hood,boot or any doors being open and interior lights go out right away. I've manually checked each one and the dash warns me that it's open the interior light stays lit and there is an audible warning when a gear is selected, then all is calm when it's closed properly

U say mid centre above the grill do u mean the middle off the hood or like right close the front edge of the hood just above the grill kind of where the hood latch is?
Right in the front, in the middle between the lights above the grill. Gentle press. For me no movement was detected when I did it but then the system worked as it should. When it happened again weeks later I went straight to it and pressed there again and it worked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The double beep signifies that the computer has rejected the door lock command for some reason. Usual causes are that a door is open, or it detects the key inside the car.
My car does this from time to time with no apparent cause. I go around the car, open and close all the doors and then it's happy again.
Bonnet lock is a good suggestion, I'd certainly open and close the bonnet firmly, though if it thought the bonnet was open I'd expect a warning on the dash. That said, it's not asif I get any door open warnings when it won't lock for me.
Hence, yes, most likely it thinks something is open. Just need to figure out what.
Worst case, I'm sure a good code reader can see the signals
I have hooked a code reader up and it had ever door code u could imagine, all have been cleared and this weekend after I have all 4 doors motors switched out I'm going to run another scan and see how many have come back. Thank you I am definitely going to make my way around the car tonight slamming doors and hoods to see 🤞🤞🤞🤞 if it fixes it lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I think the smaller motor will be the deadlocking motor. USA spec cars don’t have this feature as regulations don’t support deadlocking.
Your issue sounds like the car thinks one of the doors or maybe boot/ bonnet, is still open. If this is the case then it will be caused by a micro switch in the actuator and not the motors.
You’d also get a warning that a certain door was open and the interior lights would be on, if set.
Would u say this is a cooked motor?
View attachment 58363
 

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Very similar to this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I think the smaller motor will be the deadlocking motor. USA spec cars don’t have this feature as regulations don’t support deadlocking.
Your issue sounds like the car thinks one of the doors or maybe boot/ bonnet, is still open. If this is the case then it will be caused by a micro switch in the actuator and not the motors.
You’d also get a warning that a certain door was open and the interior lights would be on, if set.
Can the back doors actuators be removed without having to remove the windows? Or just stick to the same procedure as the front doors?:
 
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