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Its really not that difficult unless you need to remove the seat and that will only be needed if the water has past under the seat to the rear footwell .
Only issue if you have to remove the seat is to close down the car first as there are some electrics mounted under the seat.
To do this switch off the car and leave a door open while you move the key fob well out of range. Don't forget the spare key.Then leave car for 20 to 30 minutes to allow everything to shut down completely. Disconnect the positive terminal of battery and isolate from battery. Failure to do a proper shut down will/ can cause all sorts of errors messages to show and may need re-setting.
Carpets are easily pulled up as soon as the door sill caps are removed. Just pull up and the clips will release.
As I've already said a good supply of old newspapers works wonders at soaking up the moisture and will draw it out from the carpets as well . Just change them once a day until its all dried out. If you don't dry it out properly the car will quickly start to smell bad !
Good luck and let us all know how it goes
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
PetA is correct. There are electrics under the passenger seat that can be affected though , Dry area thoroughly and check that water has not got to the rear footwell, its easy to overlook . It happened to my Sportbrake a couple of years ago . To dry out carpet I removed the door sill footplate and lifted the carpet . Then laid plenty of newspapers down to soak up the water . Its surprising how much water a newspaper can absorb. Replace papers every day and leave windows open if possible or use a fan heater to finish drying.
As for the cause the drains on the plastic scuttle may look clear but you need to remove this or lift it to get to the drain/cause beneath it , Water should be free to run into a hole into the wing . Dirt and debris build up there and water backs up through the heater inlet . You will also find that the pollen filter will be ruined and need replacing or it will start to smell. Its a poor design really and a slightly higher lip to the heater inlet would prevent this happening.
Quick one Phil, how did you remove the sill plate?
 

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Just a plain old lift and pray if I recall correctly Martin, more force than you'd think and breaking some retaining clips is normal/to be expected..
 
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You might also want to brush up on your best/favourite swear words Martin.. :)

Good luck!
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
So- I lifted the carpet today and only broke one clip! I found that a flat trowel was great at lifting the trim and spreading the load. The foam in the passenger side footwell was pretty wet but I managed to dry it out with newspapers first and then a hairdryer for a while. The rear footwell was a real surprise. It was absolutely sodden! I couldn’t believe it, but the same process again and it’s dry now. I undid the four bolts on the passenger seat and just rested it against the back seat while I took care of the front, just pushed it forward for the rear access. I was brave/foolish and didn’t disconnect the battery as I didn’t want a load of fault codes after. I did disconnect the wires running under the seat which was straight forward. Interesting fact - I cleared out the channel under the scuttle plate using compressed air which worked a treat. I tested it by parking on the level and pouring water on the windscreen and it worked perfectly. I live on a bit of a steep hill so then went outside and parked on the hill facing up. I tried it again and lo and behold water started to come in. The bad design of it means that if you are facing up on a hill when a heavy shower arrives the channel becomes overloaded and water gets in via the pollen filter. I’m going to blow it out again tomorrow and test it again on the hill. Incidentally, does anyone know where I can buy the retaining g clips for the scuttle plate? I broke a few while taking them out.
 

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Most of the trim clips under the bonnet are available on that auction site
 

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So- I lifted the carpet today and only broke one clip! I found that a flat trowel was great at lifting the trim and spreading the load. The foam in the passenger side footwell was pretty wet but I managed to dry it out with newspapers first and then a hairdryer for a while. The rear footwell was a real surprise. It was absolutely sodden! I couldn’t believe it, but the same process again and it’s dry now. I undid the four bolts on the passenger seat and just rested it against the back seat while I took care of the front, just pushed it forward for the rear access. I was brave/foolish and didn’t disconnect the battery as I didn’t want a load of fault codes after. I did disconnect the wires running under the seat which was straight forward. Interesting fact - I cleared out the channel under the scuttle plate using compressed air which worked a treat. I tested it by parking on the level and pouring water on the windscreen and it worked perfectly. I live on a bit of a steep hill so then went outside and parked on the hill facing up. I tried it again and lo and behold water started to come in. The bad design of it means that if you are facing up on a hill when a heavy shower arrives the channel becomes overloaded and water gets in via the pollen filter. I’m going to blow it out again tomorrow and test it again on the hill. Incidentally, does anyone know where I can buy the retaining g clips for the scuttle plate? I broke a few while taking them out.
Hi Martin, is this what you are looking for? Phil
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Hi Martin, is this what you are looking for? Phil
Thanks as ever Phil! Just ordered a few
 

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I have to agree about the bad design of the heater air intake . If it was even a 1/4 of an inch higher this problem wouldn't occur. I have meant to make a lip from a piece of alloy and stick it in place with some automotive polyurethane sealer adhesive but like most things , while all is running OK it gets left . The exact same thing happened with my Volvo V70 i had before the Sportbrake . Ford design failure ?
 
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