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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, newby here so please be gentle with me. I have a 1998 XK8 I purchased in October of this year. I had a 100 mile journey back home after purchase and everything fine - fantastic drive! I put it on a SORN and it is in the garage for the winter - the battery went flat after about 6 weeks, so I took it off and had it charged and checked at my local garage - all okay. I've out it back on today, the car started first time and I moved it out of the garage (power fold on door mirror not connecting on passenger side so was pulling it out to remove the mirror). The car then started moving the revs up and down and the dash lights were brightening and dimming in time with this. I left it running and it then started to display 'traction control fault', and then 'gearbox fault'. I thought this may be from standing so moved it and it appeared to have very little power - it now says 'check engine'. This seems a bit calamitous for a car that ran perfectly, and did before the SORN. Is there something I should have done when removing/connecting battery or could all these faults be accurate (big question I know!). Thank you for any help
 

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Don't panic - yet! You probably just have a bad battery, which is causing the computers on the car to go crazy. You should never leave your battery to go flat - I always plug my car in to a CTEK battery conditioner at home to keep the battery fully charged and ready to go.

You can do a reset of the car's computers by removing the positive lead from the battery and touching it to the negative lead, then reconnect the positive lead to the battery. Make sure the battery is fully charged, then try starting the car again and see if the faults have gone away.

Try that and report back the result.
 
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+1 on Nerja's advice.

The computers (control units) on our cars are very voltage sensitive so a weak battery - either from old age or lack off use - can cause all sorts of scary problems.
Assuming you have mains power in your garage, a CTEK (or similar 'battery conditioner') and perhaps a new battery would be good investments.
Under the present circumstances, I would do the 'hard reset' procedure, and then - if everything seems to be OK or nearly so - take the car for a decent run to get everything warmed up hope fully functioning properly. The fact it was OK on the trip back after purchase would lead to the conclusion that there's nothing major wrong with the car.

If you do a hard reset - the windows will also needs to be reset and make sure you have the radio code !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Nerja, thank you very much for your informative reply. I'm going to try this this morning - so do I disconnect the positive lead and touch it to the negative terminal with the negative lead connected to it? I am thinking of buying a CTEK as I am laying the car up over winter. Many thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Devondavid, thank you very much for your reply and I ma going to do a hard reset (just checking with Nerja if I disconnect the negative terminal when I touch the positive on). Can you tell me how to reset the windows please? Many thanks
 

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Just disconnect the negative and go have a cuppa tea, by the time you get back the volatile memories will have been erased and you can then start again. You will need the radio code as well as resetting any other memory functions.

For windows, press and hold down until you hear a slight click. Press and hold up until you hear a slight click.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Jimbov8, that's great - I am trying to find out how to reset the windows - do you know? Also what else could need resetting? I have the radio code. Thanks
 

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Have another look in my post above.:mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you all, it hasn't worked as yet but I still think it could be down to battery. I've taken the battery off now and put it back in garage to have another look next weekend. Do the long bolts that hold the battery in place come right out? Just wanted to check before removing to put some copper slip on. Also I am trying to remove the passenger door card to take the door mirror off - it doesn't powerfold and looks full of the dreaded white dust, the motor works but just clicks. Does anyone have any hints for removing the screw in the door handle - it has a plastic cap on and I don't want to mark or damage. Thank you
 

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Thank you all, it hasn't worked as yet but I still think it could be down to battery. I've taken the battery off now and put it back in garage to have another look next weekend. Do the long bolts that hold the battery in place come right out? Just wanted to check before removing to put some copper slip on. Also I am trying to remove the passenger door card to take the door mirror off - it doesn't powerfold and looks full of the dreaded white dust, the motor works but just clicks. Does anyone have any hints for removing the screw in the door handle - it has a plastic cap on and I don't want to mark or damage. Thank you
If I were you I wouldn't attempt any other repair until you have got the car running properly again - these cars are complicated enough without introducing another unknown.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi, I was having some error messages after the battery went flat in the garage. I know have a trickle charger thingy so this won't happen again. I recently bought a brand nee Jaguar battery for my S Type, so I have swapped them over as I know that's good - I bought it within the last couple of months from Stratstone. However I am still getting Gearbox Fault, Stability Control and Traction Control error messages. The car has barely been used, drove 100 miles back beautifully on the day I bought it then went into garage for winter. It has been out a couple of times - the body shop to get the front bumper repainted and to Durham (about 15 miles there one saturday and 15 miles back the following saturday) to get it's alloys refurbished. It is running with driveable but limited power. The garage across the road from the alloy wheel place plugged it in to their computer and cleared all codes apart from Gearbox one - and didn't leave me details of what code it was unfortunately. What I notice is I put it into drive and a couple of seconds later there is a clunk from below and although the car drives with limited power, it does drive and the error messages come up. Also the voltmeter goes round to 17 volts and stays there whilst these codes are on. If \I go into neutral and drop the revs then it returns to 13 volts, but the codes remain. They all went off after returning so I moved off and the car had full power and no codes, about 1/4 mile later they all appeared and power restricted. I realise the car is going to have to go to the garage but any thoughts at this stage? Thanks
 
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