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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI all, I have a 2005 2.0d sport. I'm getting the dreaded light flashing in my goggles. Now about a month or so ago, I had it come up and handful of times. Stopped, restarted car and off I went again with no problems. Now the last few days, as soon as I start the car, cold or hot, bam! It's there. I've got an rac code reader which throws up absolutely jack which is rather annoying. When the car was running normally, I was getting some smoke, the egr has been blanked and the fuel economy seems terrible. (420 miles to a tank if I'm extremely lucky) the actuator arm doesn't move when the car is switched on either. Am I right in thinking the arm should move freely when the ignition is off? Any help about anything would be appreciated.
 

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Fix your actuator first. It should do a sweep when you start up.
You also need to check if the turbo vanes are free by removing the actuator arm (don't lose the circlip) and checking if the arm moves freely.
 

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if your actuator arm is stuck the best method to clear is, it floor it as often as possible.

normaly the actuators stick just around the mid point, and this is because if you drive economically, then the turbo actuator never moves further than this, so all the carbon is scooped back to the mid point, which means the odd time you get to put your foot down (pulling onto the motorway) the arm gets stuck at that point.

forte stuff does help, but it didnt solve it for me, just reduced it. I fixed it by booting it every opportunity i got, and yes it threw the coil light on everytime at first, then every other time, then 1 out of 5, and now it never comes on.
 

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With the bonnet up, start the engine and look at the actuator arm. Does it move at all? I know you said no earlier but just to confirm.

If the answer is no, you probably have a buggered actuator.

Very easy to get off and open up.
http://www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=44572&page=3&highlight=actuator

If it looks good, no harm in a little WD on all of the contacts/plugs. If it still won't move when you start my money is on a bust unit. Not expensive and easy to obtain. Anywhere from £35 upwards depending on second hand or new.

Tony
 

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It's not possible to floor it, as soon as the car starts, the light is flashing. I removed the circlip and the actuator arm moves freely so I can rule out a coked up turbo.
i would say do a leak off test, could be a worn out injectors.
 

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Not saying that it is,but I had exactly the same on start up hot or cold. Changed the fuel filter for a decent one and it went. My limp mode on acceleration ended up being an injector, take rage monkeys advice and get a leak off test ,not exactly expensive and will rule it out or confirm it. While you're waiting might as well try the forte and drive it a bit more aggressively
 

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You need to fix the actuator issue first.
Either seized turbo or failed actuator.
You'll not get any boost without this working.
 

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I agree with Billy.

Forget the injectors for now and concentrate on the actuator.

As it is not moving when you start or stop the car, there is a problem there.

You can see from the link I gave earlier how easy it is to take off the actuator and check it out.

Keep us informed.

Tony
 

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The actuator arm doesn't move at all on start up, just stays in position. I'll source a new fuel filter and leak test and go from there. But it's still not possible to drive it aggressively.
yeah if the actuator doesnt do its normal cycle, then its probably a broken connection, which is common, if you search this forum there's a guide with pictures on how to fix it,

requires simple soldering, if its not something you're able to do and you're close by to me, if you brought me the actuator i could solder it.

best to take the actuator apart first, as it could be stripped teeth on the drive wheel, or a seized motor.
 

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OK thanks, if the connections are broken, what type solder and type of wire should I use for the repair? I opened it up early this year and it was fine so I know what I'm looking at luckily.
Read post 9 on the link, it goes into full details with pictures.

Also as I said. Use of WD40 on the connectors (and even some carb cleaner sprayed on the MAF sensor) may even do the trick. The connectors have been known to be a bit iffy.

Tony
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So, I took off the actuator. Opened it up and checked the connections. All seem ok and none are loose or Broken. I wound the motor manually to the open position as if the car was running and had no issues there. Put it all back together and placed it back on the car. Turned the ignition on and the arm moved itself back into the closed position. Am I now right in thinking that the actuator itself is ok and its not knackered? Started the car and the coil light was still on. Switched off and tried starting and it just kept turning over. It did start again after switching it off and on again after that. I also bought a new crankshaft sensor, for a tenner I thought it's not a great loss if it doesn't work.
 

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So, I took off the actuator. Opened it up and checked the connections. All seem ok and none are loose or Broken. I wound the motor manually to the open position as if the car was running and had no issues there. Put it all back together and placed it back on the car. Turned the ignition on and the arm moved itself back into the closed position. Am I now right in thinking that the actuator itself is ok and its not knackered? Started the car and the coil light was still on. Switched off and tried starting and it just kept turning over. It did start again after switching it off and on again after that. I also bought a new crankshaft sensor, for a tenner I thought it's not a great loss if it doesn't work.
I would say this is the time to do a leak off test on the injectors, my thoughts are its throwing the car into limp mode because its getting low pressure on the fuel rail.
 

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I am inclined to agree with Ragemonkey on this.

Normally, i would be looking at the actuator or Turbo as these tend to be the usual suspects but normally, they would only trip the light on at the point where they fail to work. As your light is coming on at fire up, go for a leak off test and if that seems ok, run some injector cleaner through the system.

My usual advice on this subject is to promote the use of premium fuel. These cars do not like cheap supermarket fuel and also do not like 'pootling around' on a regular basis. Keep the fuel top quality stuff from Shell/BP etc, avoid low priced supermarket gunge and let the cat stretch her paws on occasion... In other words, wind the revs on at least once a journey.
 

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If the actuator fails its self test it will put the light on immediately.
It's still not clear to me if it's sweeping backwards and forward on each start up?
 

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If the actuator fails its self test it will put the light on immediately.
It's still not clear to me if it's sweeping backwards and forward on each start up?
takes about 5-8 seconds before the coil light to come on after starting. well mine did when it was stuck :)

go back when you put the key to position II, then goes forward when you start the engine.

cause you can hear it clicking when its stuck, just put the key to position II and dont crank and watch it :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
If the actuator fails its self test it will put the light on immediately.
It's still not clear to me if it's sweeping backwards and forward on each start up?
The actuator doesn't move on start up. Like I said earlier, I dismantled the actuator and manually moved the motor to the "on" position and reassembled back on the car. Switched the ignition on and the arm slumped back to the off position and the glow plug light came on. It flashes up around 2-3 seconds after start up. I did replace the crankshaft position sensor for the sake of a tenner and it seems to have solved the rough idle issue so far. I'm certainly not a old Sunday driver either, it gets its fair share of a good right foot.
 
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