Sorry Glynn, can't advise on the above, but at the NEC Classic Show this weekend I saw a firm advertising Waterless Coolant:

Evans Waterless Engine Coolants

Just wondered if anyone had used this in their XJS, it is supposed to reduce corrosion, silt build up etc and has a boiling point of 180dg C

 

Evans Waterless Engine Coolants

Looks interesting. The blog states that the product will last for the lifetime of the engine... does that mean it's really expensive or that it is just an embellished claim? I'm open-mined at the moment as I don't have any solid info to go on. I too would be interested to hear of anyone's experience of the product.

 

My thoughts too that it is probably expensive compared to ordinary antifreeze, but I would pay extra for peace of mind knowing my V12 is well protected from overheating, internal corrosion etc, as we all know if that overheats its kaput..may get a quote to see how much it is, but would still like to hear from anyone who has used it.

 

Hi
Looked at this looks amazing if its true what they claim? They have it on eBay for £68.00 so may consider after Christmas?

 

So would probably need two 5ltr cans = £136-00 plus the Prep Flush £40, so looking around £176-00, quite a lot more that Antifeeze!

But is it worth that much extra???

 

So would probably need two 5ltr cans = £136-00 plus the Prep Flush £40, so looking around £176-00, quite a lot more that Antifeeze!

But is it worth that much extra???

No it is not. In fact I think its use in a V12 XJS would be a huge mistake. The cylinder heads will run considerably hotter than with water/antifreeze mix, even though they will not actually boil. This is because the 100% Glycol (what it basically is) does not transfer heat as well as water. So the underbonnet temps will be a great deal higher, as will the water jacket temps. This running hotter will mean that any water temp switched electric fan will need the thermostatic switch chnaged or reprogrammed.

Second, when a hose goes, you cannot top it up easily.

Third I defy anyone to get 97% of the water out of the system without dismantling the lot and physically drying everything, heater matrix, heads, block, rads etc etc.

Stick with water antifreeze, chuck in some water wetter if you like, and enjoy the car, says I, anyway.

 

Thanks for your reply XJSLover, very interesting, think I will stick with the water/antifreeze, as the old saying 'if it ain't broke don't try to fix it'.

 

Very sensible! read this too, albeit from a manufacturer of an alternative water coolant treatment stuff (not the same sort of stuff
though):

No-Rosion Products Technical Questions and Answers

 

Thanks for posting that, I can't say I understand it all, but when it basically talks about cylinder heads running hotter with waterless cooling, etc, it puts me completely off using it. So good to get advice on this forum...

Cheers

Reg

 

Thanks everyone but I wasn't asking for what products to use, just any method advice.

 

I added a TEE connector in the heater hose at back of engine . This has a black top that unscrews and i connect a hose to water tap and with the hedder tank off i rund the engie while a slow water flow coves in from the tap to overflow the hedder tank. When this runs clear i then drain it all out and refill with commer green / distilled water + two bottles of water wetter . The TEE connector is also great for removing airlocks when refilling.

https://skydrive.live.com/?cid=62092248a33a16eb#cid=62092248A33A16EB&id=62092248A33A16EB!558

 

Threads can tend to go off on a tangent sometimes, but I have looked the precedure up, and you should drain the old coolant out, then fill with plain water, run at 1500rpm for 5 mins with the heating set to defrost, then drain the water and fill with 50/50 antifreeze/water.

Hope this helps...oh and I wouldn't recommend waterless cooling products!

Cheers

Reg